Preceding the definition of “grunge” as an alternative rock sound and subculture ascended to cult-like heights, emanating from Seattle and outward into the sonic lexicon of the world – and before its heavy associations with thrifted clothing slapped together and white men with long, unkempt hair – there was Tina Bell. Now considered the “Godmother of Grunge” – it has taken a few decades for dues to be paid toward this ineffable black, female lead singer of Bam Bam, to whom the very origins of the grunge phenomena is owed; as it was Tina’s who began blending the shrills of heavy rock with moody, melodic vocals all within in the same song; alongside her enigmatic stage-persona and unbridled embodiment of the true punk spirit. It’s with Tina in mind, that I approach my conversation Anita Hlazo – both of us cognisant of what grunge meant to us as teenagers, many years after the subculture had all but peaked and faded into the obscurity of archived Tumblr archives. Anita is the founder and designer of Afrogrunge: a fashion brand (and community space) that seeks to diverge from the stereotypical tropes projected onto black people, and for Anita; a celebration of her experience as a black woman deeply influenced and raised by punk sentiments, grunge aesthetics and alternative music. The brand is officially four years old – but in fact, the Afrogrunge spirit is much older than that; and Anita feels she is mostly a custodian for the fusion of “afro” and “grunge” : and that the brand is her way of giving her younger self total permission to engage fully in the lineage of rock subcultures that is in fact, the birthright of all black people.
“Grunge as a concept has always been with me, since the end of grade 11. It came about as a form of identity for myself, because it spoke to my own experience. I was living with my grandparents in Gugulethu, and I didn’t feel too connected to the cultural norms around me – so I discovered a lot online. Grunge described, visually and emotionally, how I felt at the time. I started to see myself in this space – but I also wanted to honour being afro, African – and being a black girl drawn to this space. After using key phrases like “grunge” and “black girl” to search online, I used the term “afrogrunge”, there was one editorial that I found, but nothing else. So nobody had claimed it yet, and there was no representation of black people specifically with grunge. I wanted to create the image that I wanted to see online.” Anita found herself drawn to being a designer, and presented this strength of concept to one of her lecturers; who felt she was onto something big. On this, she says, ‘’I learned design in university, so the brand itself started in 2018 – because that’s when I could sew and construct, and channel my aesthetic into a more specific offering- but it’s drawn on all my experiences and passion from before then. My first collection at school was encouraged by my lecturer at the time, who had no reference point for what I wanted to do; but I remember explaining it to him, and he was writing down every point I was making – and told me to go for it. He wanted to see what it was. The funny thing is, the collection ended up being mostly pink – which is not very grunge – but I think that’s where my own interpretation comes in, because there are no rules to the subcultures because the essence of grunge is to not care. I like that I’ve been able to build my own design language the way I have with Afrogrunge.”
Anita is obsessive with construction, and Afrogrunge’s quality and sewing is her homage to everything she learned at school – that detail is critical. Regarding the linear process from moodboard to sketch to mock-up, and then a final look, Anita comments “Things always turn out differently at the end, and that’s just the nature of designing. Design is problem-solving, so the challenges you meet along the way can influence change in ways you might never have expected, and that’s really exciting to me. I’m learning how to navigate the fusion between blackness and grunge; I don’t want to put too much of either as a fixed idea into what I make, because I don’t want it to feel forced. I always have to go back to my own aesthetic.” The total co-opting of punk and grunge toward a white-centric narrative is very far from its origin; and as such, makes Anita’s task an exceptionally important reassertion of grunge as wholly inclusive and plural. “I think the way rock has been represented hasn’t always told the full story. I also think that many people across these subcultures – whatever colour or culture you are – can be considered the outcasts, or fringe members of society. To know that blackness is within these spaces, in its origin, makes me realise that I am not actually bringing two opposing ideas together; but that I’m actually just remembering the full scope.” As Anita grows up alongside Afrogrunge, it has become more evident that the spirit of grunge is inextricable to her own spirit. Anita has created a space for other black kids growing up to see themselves in alternative ways, “When I was imagining Afrogrunge in high school, I had an idea for a shop and a hang out place for grunge black people and people of colour. That’s still part of the dream, because all of this has taken place online; but I want to have a physical space where Afrogrunge can be a home for kids like me. It’s hard to measure how much of an impact Afrogrunge has had yet – but I think people are starting to see what I said for, and what story I’m wanting to tell.”
Anita has recently caught the attention of Sportscene, particularly their Redbat POSSE initiative: a range centred around activism in Gender-Based Violence, in which the 100% of the proceeds are donated to important work being done in South Africa to challenge the patriarchy and create safe spaces for women. “This thing is so big. It’s been a huge teaching moment – for myself as a designer, but also in terms of industry experience. I’ve always worked for myself and on my own, so to have the kind of guidance and mentorship that Redbat has provided is invaluable. Three designers were chosen to redesign and re-interpret the new Redbat POSSE collection for a campaign, in order to market a competition; showcasing what the entrants will be doing in the competition. I was able to challenge myself creatively, and to use the Redbat samples to offer an Afrogrunge expression as the final look. On the 5th of August, we will be attending the final showcase and competition. Our looks will be auctioned off, and It has such a strong sense of giving back, and to highlight Gender-Based Violence. It’s encouraged me to see how powerful fashion can be in the right hands, and with the right intentions.” Anita’s year has been one of the most successful in the journey so far; with 2022 showing her that there is money and value to what she has always been doing for her younger self and self-expression. The future’s looking bright, and perhaps with a lot less apathy than associated with grunge – but certainly that anything is possible with the attitude of rebellion.
