Celeste Arendse creates clothing that delves into so many aspects of the human experience – least not the name of her brand, SELFI, which found its name a bit before the rise of the term “selfie” in its used understanding today through social media. Rather than an egoic driven act between one and their front-facing camera (although we do love a good angle!) SELFI underpins the essence of Celeste’s work; an inquiry into the expression of the self, and how this conscious phenomena of identification finds continual and expansive roots in all we do, and all we touch – and who we are. It’s a personal letter that Celeste began to write a decade ago – deciding finally in 2012 to pursue her own brand, post-corporate career dips and obtaining her degree in fashion and technology at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology.
On this foray into building a label, Celeste says in our conversation “I needed to create something with my own hands. I trained for that, and learned a lot working after I graduated, but by 2012 I was looking to channel everything towards a vision I had for womenswear in South Africa. I wasn’t finding much of what I wanted to wear, or see my friends wearing. I think any creative or designer will tell you there is a certain frustration in seeing so much inspiration everywhere – and not being able to transform those referential moments into a body of work testament to that flow of creative energy from observing, internalizing and then creating.” SELFI pieces are known for being structural and durable – a beautiful balance between aesthetic and functional considerations. Having styled with some of Celeste’s pieces before, I can attest to the pure joy in working with fabric that is weighted to hold its intended silhouette; a feat of pattern-making and construction. SELFI is well placed in the wardrobe of a woman who considers design in all aspects of her life; devoted to a life of beauty and connection. Celeste says this is somehow the point of what she is conveying, “I started out designing for a quite conservative South African landscape in regards to fashion. We take more risks now, but in the beginning I realised I had to slowly introduce nuanced aspects into the collections. This is why ceramics and sculpture have been so instrumental for my process – like taking a clay pot, for example, and building a wild sleeve shape. I took forms that I loved in my life, and put them to a drafted pattern. This opened up a whole new way to relate to womenswear both locally and globally.”
Celeste is regarded as a pioneer of sustainable thinking in fashion in South Africa, although this was somewhat accidental, “I’ll be honest, SELFI did not begin with those considerations in mind. The conversation was still very hushed around ethics and the environment in South Africa, but then I began to sell to a more global audience – and it became clear that concerns around fabrics like polyester would compromise the way SELFI was received. Turning to working with fabrics like linen and rayon blends changed everything – the garments became biodegradable, and it was really enlightening because I never wanted to make clothes that couldn’t return to the earth somehow. I don’t think things should be made to last forever; the nature of existence is this dance between creation and destruction, and to think of my clothes resisting that natural cycle seemed crazy. So SELFI evolved into a label that is deeply concerned with the ecological and social implications of fashion; it’s now a part of who we are.” The authenticity that is breathed into the evolution of SELFI is as natural as Celeste is in sharing her journey; and speaks volumes against this idea that a brand or business needs to be a perfected idea before it is brought into being. I think this is where a lot of reluctance comes in with creative ideas; rather than the view that as one grows, thus their brand / project / work will too.
A crucial part of SELFI is their social responsibility work – in many ways, this is more important for Celeste than the environmental factors. While the latter is certainly accounted for and shown in the sustainability manifesto and fabric-library on their website, Celeste’s community work with various NGOs goes to the root of perhaps why we disrespect the environment in the first place; because there is disrespect towards each other. Recently, her AW22 collection “Return to Womanhood” focused on the feminine experience. The collection campaign included two women from St Anne’s Home; a safe haven for mothers and children experiencing gender-based violence. Syd and Zandi, who share their story as part of the collections, move towards visibility for the whole spectrum of being a woman – the trials, and the tribulations of finding sanctuary in community and sisterhood even in the face of reprehensible circumstances. In this way, SELFI really does speak to a wide spectrum of the human experience through design – and considers the reality women face in this world, and in this country. Celeste says, “Making beautiful things is only nourished alongside the stories that occur during the creation process. Working with St Anne’s, I meet the most incredible women. Their stories are so important to tell, and if I can do that in some way, then I know my purpose is being fulfilled. This collection is about women transforming even after the most terrible experiences. I don’t think we should live in a world where women are bound to being “strong” in the face of abuse – but the reality is, we do – and to focus and celebrate that strength is a pathway to healing. I want SELFI to represent women like Syd and Zandi, who deserve to revel in their own beauty and womanhood as a source of power.”
Written by: Holly Bell Beaton
