Edward Enninful, the first black editor-in-chief of British Vogue, has announced his departure from the prestigious fashion magazine after a transformative six-year tenure. Under Enninful’s leadership, British Vogue underwent a remarkable evolution, embracing diversity and inclusivity – while championing social issues and amplifying underrepresented voices in the industry. Born in Ghana and raised in Britain, Edward expresses the truth of British identity; a tension of post-colonial struggles, and the triumph of the last few decades in recognition of the many cultural diasporas that make up the fabric of the United Kingdom. Scouted at the age of 16 in London, Enninful’s formative background was as a stylist. With his innate sense of style and vision, Enninful quickly rose to prominence, securing positions at top fashion publications such as i-D Magazine and eventually becoming the fashion director of W Magazine.

Prior to Edward’s appointment at British Vogue, the role was held for 25 years by Alexandra Shulman; so this step-back comes as a shock and a disruptive break in the status-quo for a role that is seen as the highest heights for a fashion journalist to reach. In a rapidly changing landscape, though, with print-publications migrating digitally or closing down entirely, and requiring rapid business-model restructuring; a role such as EIC of Vogue might be relegated to the prestige of a bygone era. It’s rumoured that Edward’s first love – styling – was not something he could tend to with conflicting interests and schedules in terms of his role at Vogue. Perhaps his departure indicates the kind of freedom that freelancing and independence affords at his level?

Beyonce

Even still, Enninful’s reign leaves an indelible mark. Some of his notable covers include; the “Forces for Change” issue (September 2019) in which Enninful curated a groundbreaking issue that featured 15 different covers, each celebrating powerful and diverse women making a positive impact on the world. The covers included changemakers like Adwoa Aboah, Jameela Jamil, and Greta Thunberg. Then, the “Activism Now” issue (September 2020), emphasised the importance of activism by dedicating multiple covers to activists from different backgrounds, including Marcus Rashford, Adwoa Aboah, and Salma Hayek. The issue highlighted their contributions to social justice causes. As a response to a global pandemic, Vogue united across all their publications – utilising fashion to celebrate the unsung heroes of the pandemic in the “Hope” issue (February 2021). The cover featured key workers representing different professions, showcasing their dedication and sacrifice during challenging times. The “Fashion Now” issue (February 2022) celebrated a full African cast of models as a statement against anti-tokenism in the fashion industry. Featuring Ruea and Akech are featured alongside Anok Yai, Majesty Amare, Amar Akway, Janet Jumbo, Maty Fall, Abény Nhial and Akon Changkou, photographer Rafael Pavarotti described the shoot as a “a celebration of the beauty and matriarchy of black women.” These covers under Enninful’s leadership played a significant role in promoting inclusivity, highlighting diverse voices, and challenging traditional beauty standards within the fashion industry.

Rumours have circulated about a feud between Anna Wintour, the editor-in-chief of American Vogue, and Edward Enninful. Speculation suggests that the feud stems from a perceived rivalry between the two influential figures in the fashion industry. Fashion media is full of drama – its toxic reputation is embedded into its reputation –  and these rumoured tensions may have arisen due to Enninful’s rapid success and the transformative changes he brought to British Vogue, potentially challenging Wintour’s dominance. Anna Wintour has been under fire for many years due to her continued lack of commitment to inclusivity, diversity and cultural change; she is a figurehead of luxury fashion’s ‘old guard’, which has historically been founded on principles of elitism, white dominance and gatekeeping. An article by Edmund Lee in The New York Times titled ‘The White Issue’ says, “More than any other institution, Vogue has defined fashion and beauty for generations of women, and the runway looks encouraged by the London-born Ms. Wintour, 70, have trickled down from haute couture houses to fast-fashion retailers and into the hands of everyday consumers. From Manhattan to Hollywood and beyond, she has helped set a standard that has favoured white, Eurocentric notions of beauty.” While this is merely speculation regarding the feelings between Edward and Anna, it’s certainly not a stretch to imagine that Edward breaking the castle that she helped build might have been seen as less than ideal.

Marcus Rashford and Adwoa Aboah

With Edward Enninful reportedly taking on ‘a global advisory role’ within Vogue’s parent company, Condé Nast – we wait with bated breath. In six years, Enninful’s role has amplified the direction fashion could truly be going in and that is a wondrous achievement. For that, we cannot thank him enough.

Written by: Holly Beaton

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