“Fashion stylists are the masters of distinction; a person that constructs and reflects a certain way of life, crafting a visual statement to be captured in an image at their disposal, full of expressions, completely edited. Nothing in the work of a fashion stylist is ordinary, as no image in fashion is purely innocent.”
– Fernando Aguileta de la Garza, fashion communicator and educator.
Interlude was born from my desire to explore the space in between fashion; or as I prefer to call it, sartorial consciousness. This term is a greater fit for the realm in which I perceive fashion to exist; embedded with meaning, implying transition and transcendence as functions of its existence, and brimming with sentiment, nuance and an ever-evolving philosophy by all those who partake in it – which is everyone, to be frank. Clothing is our second skin and the most essential device we have to shape and express ourselves; even in the disregard or apathy toward clothing, a signal is relayed – whether it is a stance against materialism, or an indifference towards the cultural perspectives occurring in the world; anti-fashion is still fashion, and no one is beyond participation. Another view I hold rather deeply is the celebration of the entire landscape of fashion – so the intention of Interlude is a continual dialogue that addresses the full spectrum of pathways that exist within the industry and the art-form simultaneously. Chapter 04 marks a third of the way through 2022 – a wild revelation for us all – and it is also firmly centered in the astrological sign of Taurus, which is ruled by the planet Venus. This feels like a magical moment to focus on the hands of Venusian discipline; stylists in South Africa who arrange with their visions the most compelling fashion images in recent years. This is a celebration of the role of the stylist – those who are able to take the vision of a designer, and elevate it to new heights and with a greater context.
This list is by no means exhaustive, nor in any particular order – but hopefully it can be a small archive of some of the creative beings who breathe beautiful life into the work of designers and brands. Styling is a demanding profession; requiring equal parts discipline, formulation, creativity and originality – and many of them are more than stylists, an often reductive term; as the distinction between stylists and artist continues to dissolve. These stylists are in the process of leaving their mark on South African sartorial consciousness; story-tellers and archivists of the potent and expressive energy that emanates from this corner of the continent.
Amy Zama ///
Known throughout the industry as Thebe Magugu’s right-hand, Amy Zama is behind many exceptional fashion visuals in the last few years – I always go back to the line-up shots taken by Travys Owen from “ANTHRO 1” Thebe Magugu AW21 as a lesson by Amy on how to show a single look in a multitude of manifestations – the mark of mastery in an industry driven by novelty. Working freelance and as the style curator at Levi’s® Haus of Strauss Africa, Amy’s work exemplifies the crucial responsibility of a stylist in translating a collection or brand vision into illustrative medicine for its intended audience – and with the ability to reference the moods of punk, minimalism and vividness across her array of works.
Ulrica Knutsdotter is originally from Sweden but has called Cape Town her home for many years – personally and professionally. Boasting a vast portfolio spanning many years, she teeters effortlessly between a commercial and “indie” practice, endlessly relaying her innerworld through image-making. Ulrica is also known for hosting the iconic stylists sales in the city; a literal dream if you’ve ever wanted to shop from the impeccable rails that only a stylist can curate. I got my first pair of Acne shoes there a few years ago, and I have not been the same since.
It requires a special kind of alchemy to bring Moncler’s ski wear into a South African context; this is one such feat of Chloe Andrea Welgemoed – among many others. Maximalism remains forever relevant through Chloe’s lens, and the performance of colour, texture and print consistently underpin her work. A single image designed by Chloe feels like a drawcard for the viewer to examine their own level of commitment to freedom of expression; I could run through her IG grid for days.
Duduza Mchunu ///
Duduza Mchunu is a Michaelis Fine Art School graduate – having sought this pathway for her own artistic process; this background forms the basis of her technical abilities as a stylist, using fashion as her medium. Mentored by Gabrielle Kennemeyer and Rharha Nembhard along with her in-born vision, Duduza is deeply committed to telling stories of Black women through a de-mystified lens through blending intuitive and referential brilliance. Currently a stylist and coordinator at Foschini, her work has reshaped the visual signature of the brand – her series “Ask A Stylist” can be found here, a beautiful and personal guide on how to consider one’s own wardrobe.
Donna-Lee De Kock is a Superbalist alumni – one of the few commercial launch pads available in South Africa in a retail context. Working freelance for a few years now, her most recently released work is “Episode 1 – Atlantis Dunes”, a story on the Maison Margiela X Reebok Tabi’s, an amazing campaign brought firmly into a South Africa viewpoint. This is the brilliance of Donna’s work; embedding commercial or branded work with a deeper layer of meaning, and portraying a South African sartorial consciousness that is reflective of the culture.
Mavuso Mbutuma ///
Mavuso Mbutuma is a long-time maverick in South African fashion – a master of clean silhouettes that evoke a luxurious view, translated into the everyday. His advertising background can be noted, as his work remains both aspirational and relatable for varying audiences. Mavuso is a muse unto himself; and it feels like his work stems from a poignant commitment to his own vision of fashion and expression.
Lethabo Motlatle ///
There is breath-taking consideration to Lethabo Motlatle’s work. Honed over the years as an assistant to Bee Diamondhead, Lethabo has garnered his own sense of signatures and autonomy, as is evident in his campaigns for labels such as Wanda Lepotho and brands like Foschini. I am very intrigued to see what the next few years bring for Lethabo.
Kristi Vlok ///
Kristi Vlok’s ethereal styling provides insight into the tenderness of dressing; focusing on nostalgic details like the softness of ruffles and necessity of accessories. Recently, her styling for Rethread’s latest collection combines this thinking to amplify the raw construction of their garments; an aesthetic feat that references current pop-culture moments such as Julia Fox’s iconic fox eye makeup with DIY safety pin nose chains.
Ulindelwe Ratsibe is one to watch – styling everything from Vogue Nights in Jozi, to breathing life into thifted pieces for their campaign for ThreeThriftyFive. Challenging gender roles in fashion, Uli is also a keen fashion writer – a polymath in the making with discernible taste and vision.
Akim Jardine ///
Akim is another Superbalist alumni, mentored by industry legend Kelly Fung – and was the fashion editor at Elle SA during her tenure. Few stylists these days have a tangible publication background – and I note this as a testament to how the calmness of Akim’s work, composed for everyone to experience. Now a style lead at TFG, Akim boasts a repertoire of distinguished campaigns, editorials and TVC’s; such as co-ordinating the compelling casting and styling for Arc Store’s opening last year. Akim is a wellspring of knowledge on the history of fashion – you might even find his brilliant fashion week commentary every now and again via IG.
