It is an undoubtable privilege to bear witness to one of South Africa’s most celebrated slow fashion designers, Lukhanyo Mdingi, showcasing en plein air against the backdrop of Table Mountain and The Belmond Mount Nelson Hotel for Confections x Collections (CxC). 

CxC’s host, Seth Shezi, reminded us, “Lukhanyo is a very private person,” so not only viewing the first of his shows to be hosted on South African soil in seven years, but to hear him speak about it further escalates the experience. 

“For so long we’ve been showcasing in Paris, which is of course an amazing opportunity but fundamentally we are a South African brand and have been operating for 10 years next year. We really wanted to create something for our community and bring it back home.” 

CxC was founded and curated by Jackie May of Twyg three years ago and directed by Ky Bxshxff and Tandekile Mkize. What made Lukhanyo’s show outstanding, was that he was adamant that it would be displayed around the fountain at the base of the hotel, setting it apart from the usual CxC salon-style format of a high tea indoors. Imagine our anticipation as the track “Objects to Place in a Tomb” played to set the mood for the show which was to unfurl from behind the bushes – an incredible surprise. 

Photography by Lunghelo Mlati

What proceeded was an utterly jaw-dropping 28-model showcase exploring a most impressive array of looks, which revealed and reiterated Lukhanyo’s attention to detail, from the mohair textures, tie dyed linens, mustard suede, customised LM prints, down to the layering of scarves as skirts which billowed in the wind. He has masterfully manicured each stitch to work in unison and harmony with the entire collection. He shares with us, “Fundamentally I see myself as an artist and designer. I love human ingenuity and being in the presence of those greater than I am because I feel they are able to nurture me in a way that’s so collaborative. So by working within the context of fashion it makes sense to work closely with textile communities because they have that ingenuity as well as a practice that’s so extraordinary. As a curious person it really enriches me in the best way. The next projects I work on even beyond fashion can really have the same sentiment.”

The nuances and depths of Lukhanyo as a cerebral designer are certainly translated to his fans. About this translation to his fans, from garments to valuable storytelling and identity expression he shares, “I think [the fans] have an understanding that you grow from zero to ten, not zero to one hundred. For us, it’s starting at a point that makes sense to us but, looking over the years, people have really been able to be so receptive to our offerings, because it’s so real and collaborative.”

Lukhanyo shared with the room, over an array of custom confectionaries by The Mount Nelson’s Pastry Chef Vicky Gurovich, that “it’s incredible to be showcasing in front of friends and family and it was so important to show it in the flesh – not digitally– experiencing it in real life and real time.” 

Photography by Lunghelo Mlati

Among many of Lukhanyo’s accolades (including being an LVMH prize winner) his internationally acclaimed feats do not go unnoticed. Host Seth Shezi asks, what makes judges gravitate towards the Lukhanyo Mdingi brand, to which he shares: “The point of view. We celebrate the spirit of collaboration more than anything else. It’s not pertained within our craft but it’s also pertained within how we nurture peer relationships in the most challenging of times and the best of times.”

Lukhanyo reflects on his career and the impact he’s made on fashion globally in an incredibly humble yet direct way. He explains, “When I think of the label and all the touchpoints and cornerstones we’ve had over the last ten years, it’s always been through the foundation of people. It’s that essence that seeps through all our offerings and creations that we’ve had the opportunity to create.” 

From the textile manufacturers, to the farms on which the mohair is sourced, not to mention the adidas and HEREU details or use of fresh sunflowers, Lukhanyo has a focused eye, trained to express exactly the vision he has been so gifted to share with the world.

Written by: Grace Crooks

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