The Rise of Concept Stores from Lagos to Cape Town

There’s no dispute that Africa has long been a powerhouse of creativity and culture. Whether through art, fashion, design or music, our continent proudly celebrates its distinctive rhythm and rich cultural tapestry. With a new wave of concept stores redefining the retail experience, these are more than just places to shop; they are creative hubs, community spaces, and platforms for showcasing the continent’s heritage and artistic expression. From streetwear and skate culture to high-end fashion and sustainable design, these stores offer a unique blend of products and experiences. Starting in Lagos and ending in Cape Town, we’re exploring some of the most exciting local and global concept stores shaping the future of retail on the African continent.

 WAFFLESNCREAM (Lagos, Nigeria)

WAFFLESNCREAM, Nigeria’s first skateboarding and apparel brand, also serves as the first-ever concrete skate park and hub for skate culture in the West African region. Born from the flagship store in Lagos, the brand has dedicated itself to supporting, uplifting, and energising the local skate scene over the past eight years. Their unique approach involves incorporating historical elements of Nigeria into their work and the retail offering is characterised by an aesthetic mix of skate headwear, hardware and clothing. More than just a place to skate, WAFFLESNCREAM has created a hub of creativity, friendship, and shared experiences. See te article we shared on their collaboration with photographer Assante Chiweshe here). 

Location: Trocadero Square Unit 5 The Rock Drive, Lekki, Lagos, Nigeria

Image courtesy of WAFFLESNCREAM

The LOTTE (Accra, Ghana)

In the vibrant city of Accra, Ghana, The LOTTE is a luxury curated concept store that brings together a carefully selected collection of high-end fashion and lifestyle products from Africa and its diaspora. Beyond retail, The LOTTE is a destination and center for artistic expression in fashion, art, and sustainable design. Guests are invited not only to browse and shop the curated merchandise but also to immerse themselves in unique and multifaceted experiences. Through pop-ups, installations and unique events, LOTTE acts as a dynamic platform for creativity and engagement in the heart of Accra.

Location: 33 C Josif Broz Tito Avenue, Cantonments, Accra, Ghana

Image courtesy of THE LOTTE

The Manor (Johannesburg, South Africa)

Part-concept store, part-exhibition space in Johannesburg’s 44 Stanley, The Manor is a space for African creatives. Individuality and storytelling are celebrated through various art forms and mediums – from fashion and design to photography and film. This multidisciplinary approach allows creatives and visitors alike to express themselves and their diversity. Through various experiential collaborations and events, The Manor showcases Africa’s rich cultural heritage and gives a platform to amplify the many voices that have shaped it.

Location: 44 Stanley Ave, Braamfontein Werf, Johannesburg, South Africa

Image courtesy of The Manor

Shelflife (Cape Town, South Africa) 

Heralded as South Africa’s leading sneaker and streetwear store, Shelflife first opened its flagship store in Cape Town in 2006 (read more about it in our article featuring founder, Nick Herbert). Undeniably the destination for all sneaker geeks and hype beasts, Shelflife holds the highest tier of sneaker accounts in Africa and has a growing in-house apparel line strengthened by collaborations with various cult brands. Staying true to their graffiti and street art roots, Shelflife also owns the rights to Montana Colours spray paint imported from Barcelona and is the official Montana paint stockist for South Africa. Now, nearly 20 years later, even as the brand has expanded its brick-and-mortar locations, the Cape Town store remains the jewel in the crown. Having moved into premium homeware, the store also boasts a gallery and community gathering space, a sneaker wall comprising collaborative and heritage pieces and the newly launched Shelflife Café. 

Location: Shop 5, The Barracks, 50 Bree St, Cape Town City Centre, Cape Town, 8000

Image courtesy of Shelflife

CHIMI (Cape Town, South Africa)

With locations in Stockholm and Paris, Swedish eyewear brand CHIMI opened their first flagship store in Africa, in Cape Town’s city centre in September 2023 (read more about the launch in our article here). Housed in Cape Town’s creative hub, CHIMI’s goal is to redefine the typical retail experience. CHIMI’s philosophy revolves around capturing the essence of contemporary active lifestyles, and the flagship store in Shortmarket Street echoes this vision, with every item in the store meticulously selected to reflect CHIMI’s distinctive character. As a space where products are part of a narrative, this store transcends the transactional nature of shopping and welcomes a spirit of collaboration and a meeting of creative minds.

Location: 69 Shortmarket Street, Cape Town, South Africa

Image courtesy of CHIMI

Press Release courtesy of Avenue

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Sober and Social: In Search of Time and Memory

Moments of clarity are rare in current contexts. To think with sharpness is to ask the glass of water to stand still while the table shakes. At the end of every long, hard day, your mind already pulling at the final thread, a foaming lager or a decanted red promises quite the opposite of ‘sharp’. A drink provides a gentle mist, a light haze to deglaze the day’s incomplete tasks, unanswered emails or overthought interactions. Three top buttons undone, shoes kicked back, mouth open for the yap, alcohol is the tincture and tonic helping a hoard of uneasy creatures unwind. But then again, it is also so often our undoing. 

Nights out with friends can quickly go from silly to unsafe. They turn to anxious gaps, blackouts, “What did I say again?”, and insufficient funds. All that time spent slaving over spreadsheets at your day job, only for your salary to get burnt out over payday weekend. Is it really worth it? Or can that difficult decision still not find resolve at the bottom of the glass? And, if you’re being honest, did you really catch up with your friend? At the end of Sober October and the oncoming start of December’s festivities, it seems a good time to reflect on our relationship with alcohol. 

During the transition from Winter to Summer, the sway between wholesome and hedonism is evident in our consumption. As crowds gather, bottles pour and there is a sense of ‘letting loose’. The challenge has come to a slow end, and we begin to say yes again. But is sobriety really just a test of tolerance right before a season of excess? Or is it perhaps the answer to recalibrating a culture that is sometimes, worryingly, obsessed with booze, gratification and escape? Alcohol, more than it is associated with fun, is a cause of so many of our society’s worst problems. As Deplort has put it before, GBV, alcoholism, dysphoria and more are associated with overconsumption and can be traced back to the country’s shockingly high intake. 

Image courtesy of Unsplash

‘The Raver’, Rona Falkenbach, Berlin, 2023. Exhibited at Unbinding Histories, curated by Cagla Demirbas, August 2024, Association for Visual Arts (AVA Gallery), Cape Town (35 Church Street).  Images courtesy of AVA Gallery.

On one sober evening at AVA gallery, Ronja Falkenbach’s exhibition ‘The Raver’ at Unbinding Histories sheds a sober Sunday light on the alcohol-soaked exhaustion that we have come to know as normal. The photographer looks carefully through their lens at their subjects, who appear fatigued on the morning after a rave. Piercings in, liner smudged, attention split, they are the sum of a collective call to trade day for night in search of easy pleasure and filthy groove. We all know them, and at one stage or another, embodied them on nights spent bashing bodies in back-alley bars, liberating ourselves of responsibility. Enjoying a bender’s delight and all of the hedonistic defile that comes with it is, in many ways, a rite of passage, especially in cities where nightlife expands beyond the simple strobe light. But Falkenbach’s exhibition says, “I remember it all,” whereas her subject’s eyes seem to say the opposite. It is shot with the same clarity that strikes when waking up on a weekend free of shame, stamps, or nausea.

Drinking culture has become a defining part of our cosmopolitan lives, with most of us embracing the self-defining structures and raves that come with it. Festivals, bar hopping and street parties indulge our need to strut our individual styles, while also solidifying ourselves as members of the clique, the culture, the cool. These nights are, undoubtedly, liberating. But they are also, accumulatively, exhausting. And now with the advent of conscious parties, craft nights, and wholesome alternatives to socialising, more of us are wondering whether this growing swing towards sobriety is more than a challenge, but a mental shift in mindset. Not to mention, whether the raging fun and parasocial bonds can survive without all of the recreational drugs and intoxicating fluids. Increasingly large numbers of sober-curious people are beginning to pay attention to the impact of drinking culture on our friendships, mental health, bank accounts and lifestyles. With reports from the likes of Fortune, Forbes and the Guardian demonstrating how young adults and Gen Z’s in particular prefer sobriety, there is mounting evidence that there is a search underway for deeper connections and a secret third place that can connect us beyond the local bar.

Sometimes it can feel as though the fee to enjoy yourself, the music and the familiar faces is heavy. The price of wine will always supersede the cost of bread. But more than that, it’s the cost of time. How many mornings have we collectively lost to hangovers? How many moments do we wish we recalled better or wallowed less? Such precious time spent trying to gain access to something that we can have for free, if we were only more confident in our capacity to connect beyond liquor and lilac wine. People do not often combine “social” and “sober”. But in reality, the warmth that sustains any occasion long after it’s done is in the sobering afterglow of your memory. It is in the “remember when’s”, the follow-up questions, the designated drives home and the good night’s rest. It is in all those things that come through after the haze, like the friends that stick around when you have no more time, money or self left to spend. 

Imagery courtesy of Pexels

Imagery courtesy of Pexels

In a culture obsessed with speed, frequency and volume, it feels good to say no. In fact, it is recommended. Slow down, drink in the air and the atmosphere (as opposed to the toxic contents of that suspicious glass), and listen carefully. Instead, consider committing to actually arriving for your hiking plans on time, or waking up early enough to see the sunrise at the shore. To finally getting hold of your friend in a different timezone, or saving money for that trip down the coast. Sometimes sobriety can feel like a ‘yes’ to taking that long walk with a new person, regardless of the social anxiety, to feeling relieved not to pressure yourself to perform beyond your own limits. In many ways, sobriety compels you to make better use of the time you have, with the people you really love, to look clearly through the lens and see it all. Of course, certain moments may still call for bubbly, toasts and easy-goings. But even then, a clear head and a still glass of water do not have to mean the end of the fun. Instead, it can be a question and an answer. The question being, “What most would you like to remember about this moment?” And the answer being:

Your friend’s raucous laughter. That long, long hug at the end of the night. The art. The music. The food. The soft descent of your nerves after arrival. The sigh at the familiar comfort of community. The dissolve of the drama. And the decision to do this more often — but, like, really.

Written by: Drew Haller

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Artist Georgia Munnik On Her Sensory Practice and The Poetics of Perfume

There are aspects to ecological life that are considered taboo. In our Western context, concepts of decay and decomposition are viewed as the final, horrifying states of matter that need to be avoided or sanitised. Yet, from an ecological perspective, these processes are foundational to life itself; enabling organic matter to return to the earth, nourish soil, and support the growth of new life. In this sense, decay is not an end; it is critical in the cycle of regeneration and renewal. We owe much to the beautiful force of rotting. It is precisely within this borderland; between life and death, beauty and decay, growth and entropy, that Georgia Munnik’s artistic practice is situated. The launch of her perfume, PHENOTYPE 13, is the culmination of an olfactory practice that uses alchemical process and ingredient cultivation, with the outcome being fragrances that explore ecological and cultural histories. This is the latest in the highly articulated, tonally rich world that Georgia has been building for some years. 

“I chose to study art after high school and got into the fine art program at Wits, which set my direction,” Georgia recalls, and “I was quite rebellious for the first two years — I hated the prescriptive, systematic ways of learning. Everything felt so rigid in the first and second years. But by third year, we were able to take on our own projects, and that’s when I really flourished. I’m lucky; I’m one of the few who didn’t end up completely put off by art school.” Wits School of Art had a strong focus with a conceptual, immaterial approach and although, “in my third year, I was already interested in decay and materiality in my work,” she says, “I remember being encouraged toward video, performance, and writing — which I was naturally strong in.” 

AKJP window sculpture, photography by Theodore Afrika

Portrait by Theodore Afrika

It wasn’t until Georgia’s Master’s at the University of Tromsø, an amazingly funded and entirely hands-off art school in Norway’s isolated and almost otherworldly northern region (at the precipice of the Arctic) that things shifted. “I was really interested in language at that stage — translatability, especially. Being in a different context, I started examining my own country more politically, even creating pidgin languages, like a pidginized Norwegian, for my video practice. It was funny; I always felt I could best express myself visually if I was working toward an exhibition.”

“After a series of unexpected turns, I returned to South Africa after four years in Norway,” Georgia shares. “I was lucky enough to get a residency in Basel, which became a huge turning point for me. I realised that as an artist, you have to constantly advocate for your material practice, and to find a reason to make work beyond. I was alone there for two months — just me and a lot of Swiss cheese,” she laughs. At this point, Georgia turned to flowers as a salve for this moment and, “during that time, I started laminating flowers. It was so simple, but I realised I needed to build a world around myself.” Flowers hold a mystical place in the human imagination; we have engaged in flower burials for thousands of years, and it is theorised that this practice was an aspect of Neanderthal culture, suggesting they engaged in symbolic or ritualistic behaviours long before us modern humans. Archaeologists discovered evidence of this practice at the Shanidar Cave in Iraq, where Neanderthal remains dating back around 65,000 years were found buried with pollen from various wildflowers. It is almost as if the sheer fragility and ephemeral nature of flowers instinctively tell us something about ourselves: embodying something that is simultaneously beautiful and utterly devastating. This connection to flowers may be as innate to the emergence of hominids as our ability to stand upright.

Photography by Theodore Afrika

Mario Todeschini “How Do You Mourn”

“I was mourning having to leave”, Georgia explains, and “I’d been deported due to VISA issues, and I’d just ended a relationship. The connection I had to those places and memories were tied to flowers, so I collected poppies, cornflowers — all specific to Northern Europe. It wasn’t even about making art; I just wanted to make my space beautiful.” Until this point, as Georgia shares, her work was in relation to the institutions and frameworks in which she participated. From the simple act of laminating flowers – asserting her own aesthetic motivation, to reckoning with her own lived experience and internal state – a transformation occurred all at once; “I had this strange dream around that time. I was in a lecture and asked a question, and before answering, my lecturer asked me to list the ways I mourned. So I did, and it was incredibly revealing. It got me thinking about laminating flowers in a more political way, and what ‘sustainable mourning’ could mean.” This introspection led her to continuation of this thread at her next residency at Fabrikken in Copenhagen.

“At Fabrikken, they were incredibly supportive and wonderful,” Georgia reflects. “I stayed with my best friend, who is deeply into eco-feminism and introduced me to amazing eco-feminist authors and literature, like Anna Tsing’s ‘Mushroom at the End of the World’. This experience brought me closer to my immediate environment and influenced my work profoundly. I decided to laminate a bunch of yellow roses, taking them apart and completely reconstructing them. What emerged was this wild schism, almost like something out of a sci-fi narrative. From that point on, everything changed for me. Since 2019, my practice has been firmly rooted in that realm — it felt like I opened up a portal!”

Personally, I am a big fan of death and decay. I once heard someone say, ‘death is a huge opportunity,’ — and this reframing, of death as a starting point, is entirely a subversion of the doomed place it holds within our western minds. I think of the Tibetan Buddhism practice called ‘chöd’ founded by the female saint Machig Labdrön in the 11th century. Chod, which translates to ‘cutting,’ is a direct, meditative confrontation of death – in which practitioners engage in visualisations where they offer their own bodies as food to malevolent spirits and demons, symbolically cutting the binding ties with attachments to life and the reluctance for change. Georgia explains that, “the decay was really interesting because I really was making biodomes by laminating fresh roses. They would start to develop microcosm of mould within that epidermis; the plastic skin over the petals would create this tiny world, until they would get suffocated out. That made me think about our bodies being completely porous. This was happening during the pandemic in which we were villainising a virus, but our bodies are referred to as the human microbiome; we are made up of 100 million viruses. I was thinking about decay as an opportunity for more life, and mushrooms and mycelial networks.”

Speaking to Georgia, I am reminded of the strange comfort, even in the face of existential threats like the Anthropocene — a period defined by our significant and overreached human impact on the Earth’s geology and ecosystems — in knowing that we are ultimately organic matter at the mercy of organic and geological processes. This reality is our intrinsic connection to the natural world; creation and decay govern our existence. It is utterly poetic. Georgia notes that, “I love the way Donna Haraway, the famous science and feminist writer, frames it –  that the Anthropocene is a boundary event between now and what is possible afterwards, especially when we finally give in to the inevitable of our bodies being part of nature. What are the new stories that we can start to tell about the epoch to come afterwards?”

On the medicine found in the purposes of decay, Georgia utilises biological processes and the composting of matter as a reflective tool to address psychological processes—like grief and mourning—and the way these are necessary functions from which we should not look away or turn away from. “I taught a workshop in Aalborg, Denmark, where I explored mycelial communication, and discussed how mushrooms communicate through their mycelium, a vast underground network that allows them to share nutrients and information. The fruiting bodies of mushrooms, which are one of the many forms of reproduction, literally pop up to fulfil their purpose of rotting and decaying, enabling the dispersal of spores, and thus new life.”

Georgia’s deeping and layered focus on death, life and procreation have formed the backbone of her practice — now, she is currently in the proposal phase for her pHD at Stellenbosch University, under Kathryn Smith and Ernst Van der Wal, and shares that “the whole project is around the apartheid-founded museum system as a decomposing body. In thinking about the post-apartheid era, how do we mourn this history that we all share? I’m proposing for specific museums to become sites for mourning, death and decomposition. My paternal family history museum, the Anderson Museum in the Eastern Cape, is this insane institution that is essentially starting to rot, fall apart and deteriorate. That’s basically the premise of my interest in rot.”

“A friend of mine, Chanel Adams, is a writer pursuing her PhD in geography in Switzerland. She shared an intriguing story about a ceremonial bone practice in Madagascar. In this tradition, when someone dies, their body is kept in trees until only the bones remain. Years later, there is an entire practice that involves dancing with these bones, celebrating the decomposition of the body and truly witnessing the natural process of decay,” Georgia shares, and once again — I am drawn back to Tibet, specifically the ‘Sky Burials’ tradition in which dead bodies are laid atop mountains for the vultures to consume; as an offering back to earth, the elements and the ecosystem in which the body once inhabited. 

I ask Georgia about her segue into an olfactory practice; “I’ve always been interested in scent and it had been part of my practice previously, but the seminal moment I think was in Copenhagen and my best friend’s friend arrived, he’d beene cycling and was all sweaty, but he smelt insane. He explained that he was wearing Amouage Interlude. This was my introduction to perfume in a deep way — it was like diving into a resin-filled forest, and I realised that perfume is truly made for our body, especially the way it interacts with our pheromones.”

Two years ago, Georgia was awarded the Rupert Museum Social Impact Prize for a residency in Graaff-Reinet, where she collaborated with Louise Johnson on a relational history project. They aimed to explore how to convey difficult histories in a way that is more accessible and less challenging to consume. “Do you tell it through the senses?” Georgia reflected, “this question led me to work with scent as a medium for addressing the complexity of shared histories,” and with guidance from her mentor, Dave Pepler, she began hand-cultivating ingredients to create her own absolutes, such as oakmoss, which is lichen taken from olive trees. As an ecologically-driven, somatic scent practice, Georgia asserts that “scent is a biological tool, and we understand things about ourselves and our environments from the odours we emit or smell. Perfume is also such an exploration of the body and sensuality.”

With her recent launch at AKJP, PHENOTYPE 13 ‘pays homage to the poetics of scent as an expression of nature.’ I ask Georgia why, then, she opted to extend her practice to a product – often seen as a commercial and reductive outcome to the way in which fine artists should forge a material practice. “I’m so over the gate-keeping in the fine arts,” Georgia explains, “the most generous thing you can do is make your work accessible. So the idea was to make something that was not as expensive as my visual art, and that was also consumable. Smell becomes deeply personal for everyone, so I want my practice to touch people and for people to really, sensually engage with it. It’s complete alchemy and witchcraft.”

On the layered notes of the scent itself, Georgia explains some of its aspects; “the composition of PHENOTYPE 13 is built around a base note of cannabis that I hand-cultivated. There’s Oud Assan, which has a very hay-like quality, and then I included octyl acetate, a synthetic scent that resembles moulding fruit and has a distinctly mushroomy aroma—so I had to add that. Oakmoss contributes an incredibly earthy scent, reminiscent of digging into fresh soil. You let it sit, almost like a fine wine, and there are chemical processes that occur after I make it that have nothing to do with me. There’s also amber accord, which is fascinating because it’s a synthesised scent and yet it’s one of the most luxurious, prized ingredients in perfumery—nothing in the world smells quite like it.”

Available exclusively at AKJP, PHENOTYPE features three original prototype artworks and six more uniform pieces, crafted with gold-leaf plated, blue-dyed rose petals embedded in resin, and ‘each bottle serves as a personal sculpture for the wearer and is accompanied by a certificate of authenticity.’ The three sculptures, each distinct in their expression of Georgia’s interest in the localised, Western Cape ecology, are undulating expressions of material, form — and encasing life and death, such as the one that features trapped black mould or the body of moth, the latter found by Georgia on a walk in West Coast National Park. All that Georgia touches – alive or dead – is intended for exhalation through her own essence, and vision or the way in which the sensorial aspects of reality should be experienced and it is totally enthralling and mesmerising. “Once I start on something, it has to be exceptional. I had a private commission that involved resin, so I was already working with it as a material. I developed a prototype series of bottles, and I realised through my journey of mourning that I need people to witness me. I need them to witness the process, and that’s how I emerge transformed. So, I approached Claudia at AKJP, and I was amazed at their willingness to collaborate with an artist. Claudia really pushed the material outcome of the bottles and helped me shift my perspective away from viewing it as a commercial project. Then, I just went wild.”

Lastly, I ask Georgia whether scent will be part of her path now — to which she assures me that she’s already working on a new series, “I have to! It’s selling and I’m getting such good feedback. I think it will be a bit more simplified. It’s also my business now, which is amazing to be as an artist; I want something that feeds me economically and that also feeds my soul, and I want to be in charge of that.”

Written by: Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Colouring The Lines Of Sound: A Look Into The Sonic Universe Of Blue Lab Beats

I’ve always wondered what the heart and soul of music are. Is it the beat or the lyrics? In a brief conversation between my lifecoach and I, where we spoke about the healing quality of musical frequencies, I realised there is something ethereal about instrumentation and how it forms the soul of any song. Having spent some time creating beautiful projects and songs with my mates, I have developed a sincere appreciation for the value of producers and sound engineers for the unsung work they put into curating the essence of the soundtracks in our lives. Coming from a rich lineage of musical behemoths, when I was introduced to Blue Lab Beats, I was whisked away into the detail that my father appreciates about musical structure and form and naturally, I couldn’t resist introducing him to the BLB experience.

Consisting of NK-OK and Mr DM, Blue Lab Beats are multigenerational talents from the United Kingdom who cater to the African diaspora while staying true to their London roots. They achieve this through a seamless blend of production and multi-instrumentation coupled with the unwavering power of collaboration, soothing our listening senses with a fusion of Jazz, Hip-hop, Afrobeats, Soul and Electronica born from organic all-night jam sessions in warehouses around London. Inspired by their contemporaries ranging from J.Dilla, 9th Wonder,  Missy Elliot and the collaborative prowess of Knxwledge and Anderson .Paak, Blue Lab Beats have pushed the needle from being bedroom producers remixing tracks from  A-listers such as Dua Lipa and Rag’N’Bone Man to being Jazz FM innovation and Grammy award winners for their production on Angelique Kidjo’s “Mother Nature.”

Image Credit: Dalong Ye-Lee

Image Credit: Dalong Ye-Lee

Their masterful discography boasts notable projects such as “Blue Skies EP,” “Xover,” “Motherland Journey,” and “Blue Eclipse“, which features my favourite song, “Cherry Blossom,” the sonic textures from each offering are a voyage unto itself, a listening experience with purpose garnering them over 50 million collective streams. Whether it’s your time for reflective meditation, a road trip, a romantic two-step and a light salsa with your lover, or downtime from a long day at work, there is a Blue Lab Beats vibe for every moment of life. The sheer diversity of the Blue Lab Beats catalogue masterfully translates into the stage with clinical precision, resulting in them touring the world performing in countries like Poland, Holland, Netherlands, Turkey, Czech Republic, and South Africa, providing out-of-body experiences at each turn.

Curious to understand the genius behind the pulse, I experienced an indulging conversation with Blue Lab Beats about their origin story, the state of production culture, their creative process, the art of sampling and more. 

Some say it takes 10,000 hours to become an overnight success, and I’d like to start our conversation there. Please tell me more about who you are and take me through your upbringing and journey into the discovery and perfection of instrumental music?

BLB: “Many people probably discovered us two years ago after the release of ‘Motherland Journey‘ and our Grammy win with Angelique Kidjo. But we’ve actually been producing together for 12 years. We first met at Weekend Arts College, an amazing youth centre providing affordable access to live music, music production, singing, dancing, and acting. It’s a great alternative to expensive one-on-one music lessons, which can be really costly here.

The establishment has been around for about 45 years, and one of the key figures running it was Celia Greenwood – she’s a total boss. She’s helped multiple generations of great musicians come through there, including Steve Williamson, Jason Rubello, Alex Garner, and Miss Dynamite. Even in the younger generations, you’ve got people like actor Daniel Kaluuya, who’s doing well. Just a whole host of massive talent has emerged from this place.

So we met there 12 years ago and have been producing together ever since. We just released our fourth album this year, and we’re already working on our fifth.”

Image Credit: Dalong Ye-Lee

Image Credit: Dalong Ye-Lee

In an era where we tend to get microwaved beats that appease the algorithm, you put care, creative direction and effort into your beats. What are your thoughts about the current state of production culture? Are we making progress or regressing the quality of instrumentation? 

BLB: “We think it’s a bit of both, honestly. We love what beatmakers have been doing recently, especially with SoundCloud slowly making a comeback these past couple of months. Since getting back into DJing, we’re always looking for loads of edits. It was a game-changer when SoundCloud removed that advertising restriction, which made everyone stop using it.

When it comes to beat makers, we’ve noticed there’s definitely been a trend of people grabbing samples from Splice or royalty-free packs. But to really finish a song, you need musicians to add different elements. Being able to go to a different section with different chords – that’s such a beautiful thing. It’s crucial to maintain that musicality.

The bottom line for us is keeping things organic. In today’s convoluted music world, sticking to an organic approach is refreshing and well-received by audiences and sonic fans. Speaking as musicians, it’s easy to distinguish when that organic approach hasn’t been taken – you can tell when an artist has veered away from that authentic sound.

One thing I noticed in your discography from “Blue Skies” to “Blue Eclipse” and beyond is the rich presence of instrumentation and meticulous arrangement in your compositions. How do you approach structuring the compositions and arrangements in the creative process of your songs and album sequencing?

BLB: “One significant way we approach our creative process starts with NK laying down the drums. He plays them freehand without quantization – quantizing would remove the organic feel. Once a full percussive structure is in place, we prepare the keyboard, lay down a bassline, and start fleshing out ideas that complement those drums.

From there, we work together to develop the track. As needed, we can adjust the chords and modify the harmonic and melodic structure. It’s a building process: we start with the drums as our foundation, add the bass, and then layer in the harmony and keys. That becomes our framework from which to build everything else.”

What I love about sampling is the power of recreation, taking something basic (or extraordinary) and giving it a new context of expression. What is your relationship and approach to sampling in your music?

BLB: “Sometimes in our creative process at Blue Lab, we’ll start with a sample idea. We’ll come to David with a basic song concept based on a sample, but since we don’t want any legal issues, he replays everything. We then structure the song to be harmonically similar to the original inspiration. ‘Pineapple’ is an excellent example of this approach – many people think we sampled it, but we replayed every detail ourselves.

Regarding resampling, we believe the best approach is to research videos from the era you’re drawing from. Look up studio footage, if it exists, and study how they’re using the mixing board. If you want to learn about reverb or echoes, study the dub legends – they were incredibly ahead of their time with their mixing techniques. The same goes for conscious reggae legends and the Motown crew.

Once you learn these techniques, your replayed parts start sounding like authentic samples. Then you can feed that back into your drum machine, and you’ve created something completely original while capturing that classic feel – all done yourself.”

Watch ‘Pineapple’:

 

You have experienced what is to be signed to labels like Blue Note and are now independent. Regarding the business side of music, which do you feel is the better fit for creatives such as yourselves and why? 

BLB: “Blue Note was amazing from the beginning days, especially when they flew us to Ghana for music videos – that was absolutely insane. They really got our vision. But when you’re creative nowadays, navigating the major label industry can be tricky. Since Blue Note is owned by Universal, even if you’re on a smaller label, the more prominent entities still control the money. Their decisions can feel very random – they’ll have a good or bad day, affecting everything. This has recently intensified with how major record labels manage their artists.

We don’t particularly agree with how they treat their artists and creatives because of this randomness. That’s why we prefer having more control over our work. It’s just better knowing we can post something today and make certain decisions without going through an enormous approval process. We can just check with our management quickly and move forward. It feels more natural having that control over our stuff.”

Watch “Labels (Live at The Royal Albert Hall/2022)’:

Thank you for joining us for this interview. Before you leave, could you tell us more about what you have planned for the future beyond the “Options” single and upcoming international tour dates? 

BLB: “We’ve got more music coming for the whole world to hear. We’ll be dropping two EPs from artists signed to our label – Eva Gadd and Farah Audhali. Eva’s EP will drop in November and Farah’s will drop early 2025. We’re really excited about these releases since we produced both projects entirely. We’ve also got some other artists on our label who will release early next year. While we’re not producing those projects directly, we’ll be doing remixes for them. That music will have more of a jazz, psychedelic vibe. We can’t wait for everyone to hear all this new music. And at some point, we’ll start working on our own album five, though we have no idea where we’re going to take that one yet. We’re excited about the future.”

While we can never truly settle the debate of what ranks higher between instrumentation and lyricism as they are equally important, each listening session of Blue Lab Beats reminds me to celebrate the art of curation. When the collaborative spirit calls for a well-rounded musical piece, we achieve the most elusive feat in creativity, timelessness.

Written by: Cedric Dladla

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Jono McCleery releases his second single from his forthcoming album ‘Reconcile’

Following on from ‘To See You Again’, his debut single release on Berlin imprint Sonar Kollektiv, English singer-songwriter Jono McCleery delivers his second opus for the label, entitled ‘So Messed Up’. 

Jonos’ music is just as much influenced by the electronic and avant garde as it is by the more traditional folk and soul canon. Jono sees his music as something which is constantly evolving, drawing inspiration from an ever-widening range of influences, and that seeks to connect.

So Messed Up is also the second single to be taken from Jono’s forthcoming eighth album, Reconcile. It’s an album that represents something of a comeback for a man who has worked his way through the tumultuous emotions that come from great loss, fatherhood and the subsequent feeling that he wanted to create an album that represents exactly who he is today.

He shares, “I have felt a certain motivation to write and record a body of work which wholly represents me at this time. It also represents a chance to restart and I’m really excited for this to be my first release with Sonar Kollektiv. The artwork was made by my 4-year old daughter (who is now 8) and is an image I had kept and suddenly realised fits the theme: It’s imperfect, has sharp edges, and impressions of light, and for me resembles a flower which has broken several times, and weathered many storms but still shines on, like a bright star in the night.”

The single draws on global themes of having lost touch with ourselves and with nature, and how having to survive in the modern world often gets in the way. Despite such heavy subject matter, there was plenty of joy to be found in the recording process, and in the song’s optimistic feel.

So Messed Up continues the themes that run throughout the Reconcile album, which is in itself a story of journeys and navigating through periods of love and loss, and signals a yearning for us to reconnect to ourselves and nature, as Jono explains: “Timing is everything in music, as it is in life, and I truly feel it’s time for us to share this record, and remind people what music should be about.”

 

Listen to “So Messed Up” here

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

Raz & Afla release their Album ‘Echoes of Resistance’

Coming together as Raz & Afla, Raz Olsher and Afla Sackey converge worlds through their dynamic fusion of electronic and traditional African rhythms, forging a path that is bold and innovative. Rooted in their deep-seated passion for music and cultural exploration, they blend their distinct musical backgrounds to create a sonic landscape.

Raz Olsher is a producer and composer known for his boundary-pushing electronic soundscapes, bringing his expertise in blending diverse musical elements to the duo. His meticulous attention to detail and penchant for experimentation form the foundation upon which Raz & Afla’s sound thrives.

Part of the Wah Wah 45s family with his band Afrik Bawantu, Afla Sackey is an esteemed percussionist and vocalist with roots tracing back to Ghana. He infuses the duo’s music with rich traditional African rhythms and melodies. Afla’s virtuosity on percussion instruments and his soulful vocals add an organic dimension to their compositions.

Following on from their full length debut ‘The Cycle’, and its subsequent remix project, their sophomore LP, ‘Echoes Of Resistance’, finds the duo remaining committed to exploring new sonic territories and creating music that speaks to the universal language of rhythm and melody.

 

Listen to ‘Echoes of Resistance’ Here

Press Release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

LCGC feat. Annette Bowen releases ‘Rather Be’, remixed by DJ Ayce

The London Community Gospel Choir (LCGC) released their uplifting new single, “Rather Be” remixed by talented producer/DJ, Ayce. As one of the most dynamic and inspiring forces in the UK music scene, LCGC is Europe’s premier contemporary Gospel choir. Their sound seamlessly blends Soul, Funk, House and R&B while maintaining a powerful message of God’s love, peace, and unity through their refreshing and vibrant take on Gospel music.

LCGC has shared the stage with a long list of music icons, such as Elton John, Madonna, Sam Smith,Ellie Goulding, Jessie J, Adele, Gorillaz, Blur, Nick Jonas, One Republic, Gregory Porter, Justin Timberlake and Mariah Carey, and their collaborations continue to expand.

Originally from Hackney, East London, Ayce ‘The Beat Junkie’ is a skilled DJ, musician, and producer. His early success as a highly sought-after keyboard player paved the way to working with major artists such as The Spice Girls, Jessie J, Tinie Tempah, Duffy, Wretch 32, and Paul Carrack, among others. Ayce creates a brand of house music that’s soulful and funky, crafted to get you moving. Focusing on powerful, often choral-style vocals in both his original tracks and remixes, his music not only energizes but also leaves you feeling uplifted.

 

Listen to “Rather Be” here

Press Release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

Chapter 32 | Charting The Financial Hit on Luxury Fashion and Its Potential Promise For Independent Brands

The prevalence of luxury fashion in the incarnation that we know it today is a fairly recent phenomenon. As detailed in the docu-series Kingdom of Dreams (a must watch), it was only when businessmen of the late 1980s and early 1990s turned their attention to fashion as a commodity ripe for consolidation and commercialisation, that luxury fashion was birthed as a mainstream cultural concern. Previously, we, as the masses, were not majorly exposed to fashion in the way we are today and fashion houses like Gucci, Dior and Prada were not household names. 

When titans of industry Bernard Arnault of LVMH and François Pinault of Kering merged the relatively niche, artistic industry with corporate business strategies, it fundamentally transformed how luxury brands were managed, marketed, and consumed. Fashion shifted from an exclusive, creative domain into a powerful global industry driven by profitability and mass appeal. The result? Well Arnault and Pinault (the similarity in their names are ironic, as two rivals who have fiercely competed for industry domination) are today among the most obscenely wealthy people in the entire world. It is also why, according to Fortune Business Insights in 2022, the global market size of luxury fashion reached a staggering USD 272.74 billion. Exhaustively amassing portfolios that revived heritage fashion houses—LVMH with Louis Vuitton and Kering with Gucci, for example—and appointing star designers to revitalise the vision of fashion, Arnault and Pinault continue to vie for top position in their moulding of the fashion landscape — under the roadmap of profitability and expansion. 

What happens, then, when the luxury fashion market that has seen unprecedented growth in the last thirty years, begins to take a downturn — at least for the foreseeable future? 

Shop Window by Didsss, via Pexels

Jil Sander by Максим Баглаев, via Pexels

According to Hypebeast writer Dylan Kelly, the downturn is well and truly occurring, with Gucci seeing revenues fall by 20% in the first half of this year. Similarly LVMH reported a 3% decline in sales last quarter, including its first revenue drop in fashion and leather goods revenue since the early days of the pandemic (which accounts for half of the conglomerate’s total revenue). When we’re talking about companies of this size, margin losses of this scale do not bode well and indicate a growing shift of the ‘golden era’ that corporate luxury fashion has enjoyed until this point. It has been reported — and experienced — that we are living in economically unstable times — with bogeyman words like ‘global recession’ and ‘modern depression’ being used to explain the rising cost of living across energy, food and housing. With geopolitical instability and political transitions underpinning many of the risks facing economic growth both globally and domestically, the tightly controlled corporatisation of luxury fashion cannot shield it from the perception of excess that consumers often associate with the industry. No matter how hard they try, we aren’t buying the allure and exclusivity offered by luxury labels; figuratively and literally. 

It is well known that after collective trauma, there is a phenomenon among the economically privileged to spend as a form of catharsis. The American economy was never better post-WW2, exalting it into the decades of ‘prosperity’ still harkened back to within America’s self-mythologising. In the aftermath of the COVID-19 pandemic, this same phenomenon saw a surge in fashion – the ‘luxury fashion boom’ that brought us Gucci phone cases and Balenciaga’s audacity to make whatever the hell it wanted, like these nightmare destroyed sneakers. The boom was so good, we as consumers were willingly to lap up anything and everything that nurtured our instincts for excess and social-signalling. 

Line-Up by Максим Баглаев, via Pexels

Coperni by Максим Баглаев, via Pexels

When your inflation rates spike, though, you’re bound to think differently. The Chinese market, for example, has been one of luxury fashion’s most critical landscapes; with a rising middle class holding significant purchasing power, the presence of luxury fashion flagships in cities like Shanghai and Beijing ensured that Chinese consumers were were exposed to and engaged with high-end brands, cultivating a culture of luxury consumption that drove substantial sales growth for the industry. According to MyNews, the proverbial tightening of purse strings by Chinese consumers (now facing a house marketing crisis among other economic stressors) is a major cause of concern for luxury fashion. 

Early this month, I wrote about LVMH’s sale of Virgil Abloh’s Off-White to Bluestar Alliance, writing that this shock sale (announced on Abloh’s birthday, no less), indicated a ‘tightening of the belt’ and that “there are suggestions that this is a downward trajectory for the luxury fashion label, as Bluestar Alliance specialises in revitalising established brands by leveraging strategic licensing, partnerships, and market expansion. For a luxury label like Off-White, this could potentially lead to a dilution of its exclusivity and prestige, as mass-market strategies may overshadow the brand’s original high-fashion ethos.” As always, the only contrast is change — and I wouldn’t be surprised if we see more sales in the year to come. 

Personally, I love to see a little rattling of the status quo. No, I’m not an advocate for economic instability — but I feel the conglomeration of fashion has thwarted creative expression, as fashion has become a site for profitability and commercialisation more than anything else. As you well know, we’re big fans of independence at CEC and I’m going to offer a salve for what I’m hoping this shifting landscape can offer; a re-aligned focus for independent brands. When a few major players dominate the market, unique voices and independent brands can struggle to break through, leading to a homogenisation of what we interact with and are exposed to. I’m deeply inspired by Natalia Corre’s work ‘Advance Copy, a source of information for growing independent brands,’ which is both a podcast and a book that advocates for independence as an ethical and sustainable solution to the current fashion climate. Advance Copy charts success stories of businesses and brand-owners who, through staying true to their vision, have begun carving out sub-industries that prioritised far more in the way of ethics than conglomerates ever could hope to. Natalia’s work an indication to me that while so many massive brands dominate our psyches in fashion, the majority of fashion that is actually relevant to us — such as our hyper local context in South Africa— could see openings for smaller, agile brands to emerge, along with discourse and interest in fashion as an expression of creativity and entrepreneurial spirit taking precedence over sheer market share.

The current downturn in luxury fashion could indeed signal a shift toward a more balanced and diversified market, prompting investors to rethink their portfolios. Independent brands need funding and the cash flow requirements involved in manufacturing remain immense barriers to success. As consumers gravitate toward spending with their values and prudency in mind, here’s hoping that there may be a renewed interest in supporting smaller labels that offer distinct narratives and ways of existing. This is especially relevant for South Africa’s luxury landscape, which remains virtually independent in terms of ownership — and as difficult a road as this may be for our designers, it could come to ripen as a form of differentiation and integrity if this change does occur. Support local, support independence — it is what will see us thrive as a collective.  

Written by: Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Shelflife founder Nick Herbert on his instinct to build a brand that has shaped South Africa’s sneaker culture

An origin of authenticity for brands is relatively hard to come by nowadays. I don’t necessarily mean building something that is true to oneself; people are doing that all the time, and whatever the circumstances, there is an innate authenticity to it. Instead, I’m referring to an origin story that could only really exist prior to 2010; before many of the blueprints that nowadays exist, and that have since proliferated start-ups and brand-building as commonplace features of our lives. 

The story of Shelflife, South Africa’s beloved and celebrated sneaker store, has the kind of foundation you’d only get in the early 2000s. Bootstrapped by someone whose instinct for entrepreneurship is defined by rolling, pretty expertly and entirely intuitively, from one opportunity and moment to the next, its founder, Nick Herbert is a stalwart on Cape Town’s graffiti scene — and back in 2003, he literally just wanted better cans for painting. So, as he will detail later in our conversation, he made a plan; like any South African dosed with Mzansi hustle might do. Nick was not at all anticipating that he would found a space that would prepare South African fashion and street culture for the onset of the global hype or sneaker boom; and cement South Africa’s place in the archives of street culture legacy. Neither did Nick anticipate the cultural shift that changed almost everything about the way we interact with sneakers, streetwear and contemporary artistic movements and yet, he has found himself at the very epicentre of it. It’s a crazy origin story — in both its simplicity and authenticity. 

Nick, as he tells me, had the opportunity to live overseas when he was younger and he credits this with deepening his curiosity about the world and its possibilities. Between Canada and Holland, Nick’s return back to Cape Town in 1997 (a time without internet or social media) meant that sneaker culture was virtually non-existent here, particularly in terms of access. Of course, no story of South African sneaker culture is complete without the props given to the city’s Coloured community, who have held die hard Jordan and ‘bubblekoppe’ (Air Max) fandoms since the 1980s, and who almost entirely on their own, kindled the flame of Nike’s reputation in South Africa, long before Nike was ever meaningfully present in the country. As Nick shares, “The moment I got to Canada, that was my first intro into the sneaker world. South Africa at that time, we had nothing yet — and I walked straight into the booming era of ‘94, with Jordans and Air Max going crazy. Even at the time, kids had like $120.00 shoes. You can imagine that I walked into school, the nerdiest kid ever with the worst shoes.”

First Spray Paint Delivery to Nick’s folk’s house, 2003, courtesy of Nick Herbert.

Shelflife Flagship Store, 2024, photographed by Paris Brummer.

Nick’s arrival home was at a precise time following democratic liberation in the country. The 90s in South Africa was a decade ripened by hope and change and as a response to the changing of the guard from oppression to new found freedom — young kids were taking up the mantle of artistic expression. “I got into graffiti in ‘98. At that time, it was pretty new in South Africa,” explains Nick, “obviously Falko and his crew had been painting in the ‘80s. I caught a train everyday to school and that’s how I got into graffiti — seeing it on the sides of the carriages. I started to notice names and I started to skate. They always say skating is like the gateway drug to graffiti.”

Still a painter today, Nick’s foundation as a graffiti artist would go on to inform the artistically driven marketing lens that has defined Shelflife. Informed by the culture around him, Nick reminisces that, “during apartheid, graffiti was obviously massively outlawed and there were huge penalties for painting. It didn’t matter what it said, you could spend years in jail — they didn’t want any expression at all, as we know. Now, all the trains and train lines are painted but at the time, those pioneering days — graffiti was a new artform in South Africa.” 

For me, as a young girl growing up in the southern suburbs, tags like ‘Toe’, ‘Way’ and ‘Name’ on lamp posts and walls were part of my first taste of unbridled nonconformity; audacious timestamps by people declaring that they were here; shaping the city in the way they saw fit. Few things were as cool as a friend’s older brother having been picked up by the cops along train lines — backpacks stuffed with paint cans and gas masks, determined to illuminate the city with unrestrained expression. 

As Nick points out, graffiti was this unusual artform that penetrated across segregated lines in South Africa. Graffiti legend Falko and his crew in Mitchells Plain found themselves in the southern suburbs; and vice versa for others of that generation. “I was completely hooked on graffiti and the cross-cultural aspect was really interesting to me. I started to be able to explore different parts of the city. Especially in Cape Town, people stick to their area or suburb. Graffiti gave me the confidence and motivation to venture to places I might not have experienced otherwise – bridges in Brackenfell, Westridge, Strand – all over.” Nick notes on his self-prescribed education throughout the city, an experience that along with his time overseas — broadened his mind wider and deeper than might have otherwise been possible.  

Shelflife’s Artistic Approach to Marketing, courtesy of Nick Herbert.

Shelflife’s first graffiti exhibition,Nike Yeezy 1 Shoe that changed game, courtesy of Nick Herbert.

Within this context, Shelflife was born. Nick explains that the store’s lore is based on a really simple idea, entirely for his own painting practice. “We had really shitty cans, there were no supplies available in South Africa at that time,” he notes, and “this company in Spain, Montana, pioneered the first cans specifically for graffiti in the early 90s. I literally just wanted better paint and the minimums were really big – I think around 2000 cans — so I started to import them to my parents house and I would sell out their house. I’d sell everything to pay it back until I had about 150 cans left which were mine.”

From a business perspective, importing cans to a niche market solved a problem — and as he recounts, “eventually it got to a point where it was a bit too much for my parents. They didn’t say anything, but guys were coming to their house — this one time, I was at a party, and my mom called me to tell me some guy arrived at the front door, at 12am. She was like, ‘is it cool if I sell them some cans?’ Which is mad, actually.” Nick realised he could make a living just from selling spray cans, which led to the opening of Shelflife as its own standalone space.

As Marc Ecko of COMPLEX and famed skate brand Ecko poignantly described in his Cutting Room Floor interview with Recho Omondi, there were certain people in the early 2000s who saw the tides changing. Previously, interests were siloed to their niches—music for musos, sneakers for sneakerheads, art for art collectors. Yet, a cultural shift was brewing, in which the intersections between these worlds would become more pronounced and gave rise to new forms of expression and collaboration. 

I believe Nick was one of these people, though he self-admittedly doesn’t ascribe to being led by a particular vision. I ask Nick what led to the expansion of Shelflife’s offering from cans to sneakers, “this was around 2004, 2005, and there were still only skate or surf stores. Brands like Billabong, Quiksilver; that was it. A friend of mine came down from Germany and he ran STYLEFILE, the biggest distributor of graffiti products and adidas at the time in Germany, alongside being a magazine. It was really clever, they used their magazine to advertise their product. They would basically give their monthly issues away just to communicate what they stocked.”

Nick says, “he came to visit and felt it was absolutely insane that we didn’t have a streetwear store. So, he guided and helped me a lot in the beginning. I was lucky enough to have travelled and understood a bit of the culture happening overseas. In South Africa, ‘streetwear’ or sneakers were still categorised under sports. People literally thought Air Max was a running shoe, and Jordans were a basketball shoe.” 

This bolstered Nick’s confidence that what was happening overseas would inevitably reach South Africa. Cemented by the notion of “why not here” Nick would go onto introduce sneakers as a lifestyle product to Shelflife. At home, people were hustling to get their hands on anything they could find. Some dedicated sneakerheads frequented factory shops, hoping that a few limited-edition or rare pairs would trickle through the supply chain. The landscape wasn’t arid – it was non-existent – and as Nick notes, “I knew that if we marketed sneakers correctly, it would just be a matter of time.”

Nick notes that “we had a different route, which was graffiti. That gave us our way in to connect with and build a community through and around them. I think we were about five years ahead of the time. By the fourth year, I was over it — it was shit, we were completely broke. Thankfully, we held out until 2010 when the hype explosion happened. Before that, we were shooting in the dark. It was quite a long process.” Nick’s perseverance was born out of sheer necessity, “I didn’t pay myself a salary for the first four years. All we were doing was marketing. We’d get marketing budget from brands — if there was anything left at the end, it was for us — but to make up the difference I was doing graffiti projects, painting murals, we even did posters for the old Assembly. Anything for money, really!”

Staying true to one’s instinct is an excruciatingly difficult task. I ask Nick about those early years, to which he says, “once the store was done, I immediately added a gallery space. From the beginning, it was Shelflife Store and Gallery. I knew that the culture had to be there, because there was no place to showcase graffiti — nobody wanted to touch it, it was still thought of as vandalism. We did our first show about six months after opening the gallery and we put together a show archiving graffiti on trains, which had never been done before, and I remember reaching out to a fine art magazine for coverage, and they thought it was terrible. I remember so clearly that they couldn’t understand it. Now, they LOVE graffiti! It’s really funny to look back on,” and that, “in the beginning no one wanted to stock us, so New Balance and ASICS were the only two brands to begin with.”

It was worth holding out for because in 2010, everything changed — and the fashion landscape as we know it would never be the same. The ‘hype culture’ shift hit global culture hard, precipitated by the rise of social media platforms like Instagram and Tumblr, that almost all at once democratised trends and amplified brand visibility. Unified audiences now had direct access to the key players, including Supreme and Ye who led the charge with limited-edition releases and high-profile collaborations; literally, creating hype. Virgil Abloh was gaining momentum as a designer and voice of generation, and streetwear became validated as an artistic expression and fashion category entirely on its own. Sneakers would be a main artery that ran straight through the heart of this movement. 

By the time the shift happened, Shelflife had already been ahead of its time; using formats like parties, activitiations, showcases and more to create energy and connectivity around a product and believe it or not, this was a new way of doing things. I ask Nick about the moment that he felt was pivotal for the brand’s success and he says, clearly, that it was when Nike showed interest. As Nick reflects, “someone at Nike came on board through someone who still works there, Kemi, who bought us on big time. He could see the vision of our store. The first product was a general Air Force and we did an entire show around it with customised paper shoes. At that time, I partnered with Dr Zulu (AKA Gary Du Plessis) and we started to work on a lot of cultural moments and launches. Those exhibitions, no one had really done it for lifestyle products at that time, around 2007.” 

With the internet kicking off and Nick’s artistic approach to marketing, conceptualising products beyond their intended purpose or function as a novel and new approach, Nick says that “I think what has connected us to these brands is that we’ve always maintained an ability to approach products through marketing that hadn’t been done before and that brought a new perspective to the category. I didn’t really have a vision for it, we just knew we had to push really hard to sell the product by educating the South African market.” 

It wasn’t always easy to drive home the point of their mission, with Nick and his team having to create their own market entirely, instead of towing the line for a pre-existing market, as they were undoubtedly pressured to do, “when we opened the store, I made it a massive point that we wouldn’t stock skate or surf stuff. Ever. All of my friends were like, ‘look, I’ll support you, but I don’t want running shoes? If you just had Etnies or DCs I’d buy them.’ We wanted to make a clear line that we weren’t a skate store. At the time we couldn’t have sold them and made money, we had interest, but we didn’t want to. We had to be extremely clear about what we were doing.” 

As a founder, Nick has had the rare experience of watching a tidal wave approach and it’s why Shelflife is eighteen years strong and still has so much left to do. On the explosion of hype, Nick shares that “at the time, sneaker culture was so small, you could fit them all into a room. If you saw someone wearing Air Max or Air Force on the street, you’d stop them and it would be a talking point. It was a really great time, you’d be like ‘oh they had a special sample at Access Park or my brother just went to New York’. It was that rare. Now, the whole market is flooded and you can get whatever you want.”

“The hype came really, really quickly. We had the first online store in the country for footwear. It was a terrible site and we had a sale maybe every couple of weeks, it was a joke. It’s difficult to think about online stores being non-existent, but at the time I just knew I had to get it done correctly, so I brought my cousin on board and we built this site that was fully synched to our POS system. We started to see sales and it grew incredible. Once we started seeing hundreds of pairs a month of white Air Forces or Roshe 1s moving on the system, we knew things had shifted — that there had been a mindset change.”

Nick regards the launch of the Nike Air Yeezy as the exact moment that changed the culture, recalling how it marked the first time a line formed outside the store, with people eagerly waiting for hours before the release. At its peak, the hype culture escalated to the point where customers would camp out for four or five days in advance, right outside their store. Ultimately, to manage the overwhelming demand and discourage the lengthy waits, Nick and his team had to implement a raffle system for future launches. In a twist of poetic justice, South Africa lucked out on the Yeezy drop,it’s mad to think about now but Nike brought in about 300 units into the country, and I think we got about 12 of each colour. We kind of sold some, and had quite a few sitting — now, those are worth R60k a pair. At the time, they were like R1,800.00.” 

Action Bronson visits the store, Nike Yeezy 1 Shoe that changed game, courtesy of Nick Herbert.

Nick’s Graffiti, courtesy of Nick Herbert.

Those days are over and like every tsunami, there is the break on the shore line as the chaos dissipates. Today, the market is highly regulated by brands and stores, across varying account structures, system restrictions and shared calendar timelines. “Before Nike might have said, ‘we’re really sorry there’s a two month delay on a product’ and it was totally fine,” and that now, Nick notes “we have to release it on the exact day, at the exact time, otherwise someone will just go somewhere else.”

With the wave came the onset of massive sneaker reselling scandals that revealed critical ethical issues and a pressing need for transparency within the industry. A particularly infamous case is the ‘Nike backdoor’ controversy involving Ann Hebert, the former Vice President at Nike, when it was disclosed that her son, a prominent sneaker reseller, had acquired $132,000 worth of exclusive sneakers for resale, on her credit card. In a parallel incident, Foot Locker faced severe backlash after it was uncovered that the company had been supplying sneakers directly to StockX, a major reselling platform, prior to their official release. As Nick explains, “if you’ve got a special release and it’s worth much more in the secondary market, it’s called backdooring. People will basically hide pairs and sell them for more. A lot of stores globally have done it and they’ve been found out, and lost their accounts. We have been really strict about it with our staff and have had to fire people because of it. We knew that if we maintained integrity, we would continue to get the product and be part of the huge future that sneakers culture has.” 

This year marked a new frontier for Shelflife — with the closing of their decade-long home at Longmarket St, and the opening of their flagship, expanded concept store on Bree St. Alongside the Shelflife Joburg store, their new space is a return to a founding principle for the brand. “Previously, we were tucked away off the street in Loop St – which was intentional, to have a space where graffiti artists could hide out. Longmarket St was a huge step into another world and we reached so many more people, which elevated our brand,” Nick shares and that, “it’s amazing how quickly that Cape Town store became too small. We were advised that we needed a much bigger space, and we knew the time would come to step things up to another level. That store took us over a year in terms of design and planning.

In the spirit of iconic street concept stores like Paris’ Colette, Shelflife’s new store has welcomed an expanded focus on clothing, the addition of homeware and a coffee shop. As Nick has grown up, so too the store is now a grown up version of itself, “We wanted to get back to having a gallery space, which we have again, as well as a coffee shop where people can sit and hang out. We were very product for some years during the hype, which came so hard and fast. It’s a great moment now where we can get back to our cultural focus — there was about two to three years where I think we lost ourselves a bit, not necessarily because we wanted to make money, but we were in over our heads a bit with how much work it took to focus on sales. I think the opening of our store is a massively defining moment.”

Over eighteen years, Nick shares the highlights have been brand collaborations, “which are the ultimate acknowledgment from any brand that we carry. Our first one was with Puma in 2010, followed by New Balance in 2013 and then Fila. In 2016, we executed an adidas Consortium project, which was a game-changer for us — we had the opportunity to re-retro a model that hadn’t been released since the ‘80s, and it ended up being sold in over 80 different countries.” Then, of course, Shellife did the iconic Jordan 2 collab – a personal invitation by the brand to work alongside the global design time, choosing and conceptualising a Jordan 2 that distilled an essence of South Africa. As Nick says on the sheer magnitude of this legacy project, “even when I got the phone call, I didn’t believe it. It was something I’d dreamed about since I was a kid. It was the first Jordan collab to ever happen in Africa.” 

Shelflife is fast becoming a heritage brand and it’s been a space that many creatives have come up in, whether directly through the store or tangentially as part of its community. With a new store and the kind of consistent drive that most businesses could only hope to have, this new era is a cooling off period; the heat is over, the explosion has tapered, and as the Kaapse adage goes – we kap aan. On the future, Nick says that “our own in-house brand is something really exciting, we are focusing a lot on that. We’re collaborating with people — like recently we did something with motelseven, she’s incredible and the collab was really us going back to our graffiti roots. Then, we’re excited to be putting so much more focus into our cultural programs and Run SL, our running crew. Other than that? Just carrying on until something comes up. There’s no massive vision and I don’t plan according to where I necessarily want to be. We rather move with the times, to innovate and pivot when it’s required.” It’s all about instinct, baby — and an innate dedication to change and discipline. Only the sneaker gods know what Shelflife will cook up in the next eighteen years and counting. 

 

Written by: Holly Beaton

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CLUB VALLEY RELEASE THEIR LATEST TRACK ‘RIVERSIDE’

CLUB VALLEY is an Indie Rock band from Johannesburg, South Africa– the musical art project of Nigel Sibanda and Jason Williams. These two musicians have something to share about the world as they perceive it, writing songs that deeply resonate with that sentiment. Their style of music is dreamy and pop influenced, portraying love, triumph and everything in-between. The band’s sound borders on elements of rock and poetry, while their distinct sound has become known as “JOZIGAZE”.

“JOZI” is the shortened name of the City of Johannesburg and “GAZE” simply put is to look intently/deeply. “JOZIGAZE” means to look outward and inward, reflecting the world, embracing the trials and tribulations we face as individuals.

Such is the nature of this new project. They share, “The music making process felt surreal and dream-like. We were so rooted in expressing the realities of a perceived world. The song RIVERSIDE is about letting go of the way things should be and accepting them as they are, we could all do with letting go of all the desire in our hearts.”

 

Listen to ‘Riverside’ here

 

Credits:

RIVERSIDE (Recorded at Abbey Road Studios)

Composed by: Nigel Sibanda & Jason Williams

Performed by: CLUB VALLEY

Cover Photo by: Troye Shannon

Mix Engineer: James Smith, Jesse Elk

Master Engineer: James Smith

Recording Engineer: Jesse Elk