Photographer Steve Marais On Finding A New Creative Philosophy

Photographer Steve Marais is taking down his website soon. Ironically, for me, it’s one of the most interesting collections of personally conveying one’s work that I’ve seen in a long time. Yet, in the spirit of constantly revitalising his creative expression – bound by a newly formed creative philosophy. So, I’m prefacing our conversation with a call to action: immerse yourself in stevemarais.com – before it’s too late. 

The Berlin-based South African photographer is abides by storytelling as his root – and Steve’s act of self-publishing, through a collection digital zines, is one of the most thoughtful acts of resistance I have seen from a photographer – who is, by the very nature of their role, is ordered to release their craft into the hands of others. When so much of our autonomy as creatives is up for sale, Steve cites zine-making as a way to preserve the essence of his narrative, at the centre of his bodies of work.

LAMPOON PROTOTIPO photographed by STEVE MARAIS

Steve explains that “I was supposed to do a bunch of meetings in Germany – ‘go-sees’ – and I just thought, ‘ugh…can’t I just make a bunch of prints?’. I started laying out elements and things I had saved, and as I was doing it – it became the idea of doing these zines and it felt such a nice way to share what I wanted, on the internet. It is definitely in resistance to splashing content out so fleetingly.” As a fashion and commercial photographer, Steve is reshifting his focus toward personal stories. Whether it be ‘Body Love’ – a celebration of the body positivity movement – or ‘The three of us’ – a tale of masculine friendship, Steve shares that “I’m not selling anything in my personal work. There’s no product to market, so it’s difficult to get picked up – this is the nature of commerce now, and the capitalistic social media culture that has been created over the last 15 years. I don’t try to step back in time – we are always moving forward – but these zines are a way to do something a little bit more real and tangible. I am putting my efforts into self-publishing. Interesting thoughts are developing – watch this space.”

Steve grew up in South Africa, but has lived in Europe for many years now. In asking about his creative origin – Steve explains that, “Photography kind of chose me. I’m from a very normal family – my dad was in mining, my mom was mostly a housewife. We went on a family holiday to the west coast when I was in high school, and a woman asked me to photograph her and her little boy with her camera. We played around a bit on the rocks and she was a newspaper editor, and she told my parents that I needed to be a photographer. So that’s what I became! My parents were cool with the idea.” Steve went onto study photography, an experience he credits as a foundation for his craft – though, most of his mastery has been born from relentless working, over many years. Steve notes that “I don’t think I was very good at it, in the beginning. I had no art training, I had not undergone any creative development yet – so creatively, I had to play catch up. I had the perseverance to see it through and now, I’ve honed it over a long time.”

ENIS photographed by STEVE MARAIS

Steve’s website features a ‘Visual Statement’ and it is one of the most pertinent artistic declarations that I have come across. Steve invites the use of the word ‘choose’ – and in turn, inviting consent and agency as the very essence of his craftsmanship. Found on Steve’s website, the statement reads: 

I choose to transform every ‘you’ and every life I touch by creating fresh, motivating and uplifting visuals.
I choose to illuminate the beauty of life by exposing human experiences that show their diversity and complexity.
I choose to challenge the status quo by reflecting the realities that we as humans face, not just the ones that are imposed on us.
I choose to embrace all kinds of people and encourage them to share their perspectives and insights so that together we can create new ones.
I choose to portray the everyday by making variety and choice a conscious part of my visual journey.
I choose to simplify the complexity of the world by applying my artistic vision to  authentic storytelling.

I ask Steve, how did the essential role of ‘choice’ come to define his artistic practice? To which he says, “I built up that manifesto over time – it’s been a work in progress and those statements are very much part of my process. Things have shifted. This new creative philosophy that I’ve adopted was developed during the pandemic years. That time stopped us all in our tracks and for me, it cleared out some space internally. I started doing creative projects photographing real people. I started focusing on relationships, connectivity and the need for human connection – and out of that, came my emphasis on choice.” Self-determination is one of the most important keys to unlocking any kind of future – and Steve’s creative charter hinges on this very idea. It also forms part of a deeper ethical, perhaps even existential, metamorphosis that Steve has undergone; having previously forged his creative sword in the depths of highly stylised, commercial work. As Steve explains, “I choose to include people – I choose to include people’s different perspectives – I choose to invite people to share their stories with me. My output has totally shifted from this approach and where I’m standing now, I’m questioning whether I even want to move forward with commercial work? I think eventually I will step away from commercial entirely. Right now, I’m working on how to develop a sustainable business around the choice and the freedom of telling stories around people.”

Pedro e Flavio photographed by STEVE MARAIS

Karl und Fridli photographed by STEVE MARAIS

In her seminal work ‘No Logo’, author and thinker Naomi Klein pre-empted a deep, cultural need for resistance against corporatism and its aim to consume, quite literally, the expression of all creative and cultural production in our society. In talking to Steve, I think of Naomi’s quote in the book“what haunts me is not exactly the absence of literal space so much as a deep craving for metaphorical space: release, escape, some kind of open-ended freedom.” It is precisely at this juncture, of the need for metaphorical space in which to create, that Steve has found himself and it is where his most exciting frontier as an artist is being born from. Steve explains that, “the brave brands are the ones who allow stories to develop and to be told. The selling of mass-products and my part in that, has become something of a moral issue to me. We step onto set as service providers – and you have to provide that service, most often to create disposable imagery for the sake of selling products to consumers. The shareholders get richer, but the work itself has no shelf-life. There is no importance to it after a week. That’s why I need to focus on stories and people.” and that “I think that’s where AI will come in, to create that kind of disposable content. I think it should, in some ways, cause many people to be out of a job – me included. Authenticity will reign supreme and it will become more and more exclusive, and desired.”

Steve’s work is a love-letter to light, tenderness and conveying people precisely as they are. It’s surprising, then, that composition is not Steve’s primary focus – thorough, colour is – “it’s quite organic.” he says, “I do like ‘pops of colour’ and light. My biggest strength is people – that’s my talent, not photography, but people. Second to that is, my understanding of colour. I don’t shoot anything but digital. The adaptability of a really good digital file is great – I put a lot of work into conceptualising a photographic series, especially colour grading. I don’t do photoshop unless it’s very, very necessary.”

yummyzine2, peoplegrapher photographed by STEVE MARAIS

FINAL REFRESH STUART DODDS & FELIPE YUMMY photographed by STEVE MARAIS

Steve’s experience living in Europe, and finally settling in Berlin, points to an increasing movement of South African creatives heading around the world. Might as well make use of globalisation – right? Steve notes that “I needed to leave South Africa. I recommend travelling to everyone – it’s one of the most important investments you can acquire. I think South Africans often undersell themselves creatively; we are some of the coolest, smartest and most creative people in the world. I had to realise how cool South Africa was and even how cool I was, by leaving. It’s only once you step out of your own bubble, that you realise your creative relevance.”

Right now, the path is clear for Steve – the world is requiring our courage. With his point of view as the energetic and intellectual mediation between him, the work and the viewer –  Steve’s manifesto, rooted in choice, is a lesson on pursuing the call that we might feel internally; “we can’t just rely on making beautiful images anymore. We have to stand for something. Thank the gay heavens that I’m gay – I am really leaning into my homosexuality and queerness in general. You have to stand for something and put yourself out there, and have a vision and a voice.”

Written by: Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Atelier Drops “Friday,” The First Tease From Their Upcoming Studio Album, “Lights Towards The Exit,” Through Lossless

Atelier drops “Friday,” the first musical tease from their upcoming second full-length studio album, “Lights Towards The Exit,” scheduled for release on May 31, 2024, through Lossless.

Switching seaside ambience for a sound, shaped by inner-city living and the new surroundings in the duo’s adoptive city Berlin, this is an ode to first-time experiences, new languages, challenges, club culture and the shift from youth to maturity, as well as a balm to those stuck somewhere in between. Atelier’s previous releases gained big support by the likes of the Keinemusik and Innervisions Crews and their debut LP’s lead single ‘Can I Speak’ garnered more than 1.2 million streams (and counting).

About Atelier:
Heralding from Cape Town, South Africa, and now based in Berlin, Electronic duo Atelier excel at riding chillwave to a cooler, moodier sound. Atelier was conceptualized by childhood friends Alexander Inggs and Jaś Miszewski whose love of analog synths, drum machines and effects pedals is revealed in a hardware-heavy live show. The project is a platform for combining their differing musical backgrounds – a blend of house, indie, folk and techno – and has an underlying maturity that emerges in their frank performances and honest productions.

In September 2018 they released their debut EP, ‘Something To Fill An Hour’, through the Berlin-based imprint LOSSLESS owned by Mathias Schober and Thomas Herb. Their first album, ‘Varsam Court’, was issued by Muting the Noise, owned by electronic heavyweights Dixon and Âme of Innervisions.

Listen to ‘Friday’ HERE

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

RAH & The Ruffcats Debut ‘Agidi’, The Lead Single From Their Album

Renowned as one of the most coveted and technically adept live bands in the German music scene, the Ruffcats, based in Berlin, have become somewhat of a staple. This ensemble of eight, composed of some of the nation’s most esteemed session musicians, amalgamates their diverse influences to form The Ruffcats, offering a unique perspective on their musical passion.

Since forming in 2007, and via their live jams at Bohannon Soul Club in Berlin, Ruffcats have found themselves acting as the backing band for artists such as Georgia Anne Muldrow, Sweet Charles, Lady Alma, Jaguar Wright, Miles Bonny & many more. In the meantime, and for over a decade, Rapturous Apollo Helios, better known as RAH, has been making a name for himself as one of Berlins‘ most outstanding rappers, songwriters and vocalists. Originally hailing from Lagos, Nigeria, RAH’s music has always been influenced by his environment as well as a rich history of black music from hip hop to soul and, of course, Afrobeat.

Since relocating to Berlin, RAH has made waves in the German capital with his weekly Swag Jam sessions. At these live events he has not only been able to show off his prowess as an exceptional MC and something of an improvisational genius, but also attract such luminaries as Erykah Badu and Bilal to join him on stage.

Having crowned his journey from Lagos to Berlin with the release of his debut album, ‘How Far?’ in 2018, RAH began the next stage of his sonic adventure by hooking up with long-time friends, the Ruffcats band. Their first collaboration on the Curtis Mayfield influenced single Shifting Sands, dropped the same year to huge acclaim, and it wasn’t long before both parties looked towards working on a larger project together. After a pause for the pandemic, their collaborative process really began to bear fruit, and they are now set to release their debut full length LP ‘Orile to Berlin’ in July this year.

‘Agidi’ debuts as the lead single from the album, representing the band’s first recorded track for the project. Originating from a jam session-inspired loop reminiscent of Fela Kuti’s style, the song came into its own with RAH’s dynamic vocal addition. Translating to “a very stubborn person,” ‘Agidi’ not only critiques entrenched politicians but also examines our own persistent behaviors in personal contexts. Offering a traditional Afrobeat experience, the track features captivating guitars, immersive keys, commanding horns, RAH’s distinctive vocals, and a poignant spoken word segment. This release signals the exciting collaboration between RAH and The Ruffcats, with plans for further recordings and live performances, including a German club tour slated to commence in November of this year.

Listen to ‘Agidi’ HERE

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

Nyota Parker drops Album ‘Intrusive Thoughts’, A Sonic Journey Through the Mind’s Labyrinth

Nyota Parker, the enigmatic artist blending Hip Hop and Neo-soul, beckons listeners on a mesmerizing and reflective journey through her album, “INTRUSIVE THOUGHTS.” This eagerly awaited release breaks conventional barriers, offering a meticulously crafted collection of songs designed to delve deep into the tumultuous realms of the human psyche.

About “INTRUSIVE THOUGHTS”:
Embark on an unfiltered exploration of the tumultuous journey through the corridors of human thoughts. “INTRUSIVE THOUGHTS” fearlessly navigates the inner chaos that often dominates the mind, addressing intrusive thoughts head-on. Nyota Parker’s evocative lyrics and soulful melodies masterfully weave a tapestry of emotions, mental health struggles, artistic dilemmas, and self-discovery.

Features and Collaborations:
Nyota Parker’s album promises a sonic odyssey enriched by collaborations with a diverse array of artists and producers. Featuring notable artists Uno July, Deem Spencer, and Zmny, the album also boasts collaborative efforts with the skilled artist and producer, Proda, as well as the talented pianist, Mercer Shavelson. The project is further elevated by the contributions of beat producers Jazz Groupiez, Stoic, Origami, Roku Beats, Blutop, Yogic, Tumi Matlala, and Lord Keyyz. With engineering finesse provided by Jay Loopz, Mosez Jones, and Nyota Parker herself, the album represents a harmonious fusion of talents, promising an immersive and multifaceted musical experience.

Connect with Nyota Parker:
Instagram: @Nyotaparker
Spotify: Nyota Parker
Website: Nyotaparker.com

Listen to “INTRUSIVE THOUGHTS” HERE

Press release courtesy of Sheila Afari PR

‘Exploring Nigerian Heritage Through Clothing with Tolu Oye’s Meji Meji’

We infuse [our designs with] the legacy and the constitution of traditional Nigerian style. We bring those styles, those iconographies, those distinct attributes that are Nigerian, and we modernise them for a wider world. Tokyo James (Brooklyn Museum, 2023)

 Two months ago, the eponymous cult-worthy Nigerian streetwear brand, Meiji Meji, announced imminent plans to grace South Africa’s borders and host two pop-up experiences in Cape Town & Johannesburg respectively.

Needless to say, these pop ups were a thorough success, spearheaded by the enigmatic creative director of Tolu Oye– with  support from local South African brand-retailers, such as ‘Broke’ (Cape Town), ‘99 Juta’ & ‘73oxDikatara (Johannesburg).

The Meji Meji pop up in Cape Town was hosted at the Broke Klubhouse nestled on Wale Street in the Mother City of Cape Town. Next up on the itinerary: Johannesburg, which included deejaying contributions from a hotbed of exciting local acts, such as Glock Angel, Nkuley & more – with the expert curatorial assistance of 73oxDikatara, hosted at 99 Juta in Braamfontein, the new heartbeat of Jozi.

The stark visual appeal of the aforementioned Meji Meji pop-ups, combined with their sheer magnitude of attendance, left me feeling very curious about the brand and its emanating roots. At the live events, there were clothing items such as the iconic Meji Meji baby tees on display, with sublime sonics filling the spaces – all accompanied by the recognisable Meji Meji Nollywood-influenced graphics emblazoned all over the venues.

Photographed by Jade Charnel Alexander

It’s safe to say that my interest in Meji Meji was further piqued after witnessing how these two curated experiences spread virally online.

So, I managed to take a deep dive into the history of the brand & engage Tolu Oye in a virtual to-and-fro about all things Meji Meji–an enlightening conversation which revealed to me the hunger of a determined fashion entrepreneur enroute to creating an eclectic fashion empire–inspired by the juxtaposition of her culture and heritage as a Nigerian-American woman. 

For those of you who may not have heard of her (yet), Tolu (which is a direct translation for “To God Be The Glory”) is a Nigerian-born fashion designer and creative director of the adorned fashion label, Meji Meji. After moving to the United States at the age of five and spending the majority of her upbringing and schooling in Ohio, at the ripe age of only sixteen, Tolu eventually decided to chase her dreams of working in the fashion industry in New York. Believe it or not, she boldly created a PowerPoint presentation as the method of convincing her parents to allow her to move to the Big Apple. In our conversation, she mentions: 

“That’s kind of been my motto with everything I do in life. If I want it – I’ll put it in a deck and I’ll put it out into the world.”

Photographed by Rete Poki

Photographed by Odey Ikpa

Fast-forward four years of education at the illustrious Fashion Institute of Technology (FIT) and Tolu managed to graduate from the same establishment which boasts the likes of Michael Kors, Calvin Klein & Schiaparelli’s Daniel Roseberry as alumni. After successfully obtaining her degree double-majoring in Fashion Advertising & Marketing, she decided to stay in Brooklyn, whilst interning at different fashion design & production houses domiciled in the New York area. LaQuan Smith probably sticks out as the most notable from Tolu’s recollection–citing her learning experience working under the former CFDA Award Finalist.

And then, the 2020 Covid lockdown hit. Something which genuinely sparked a change in direction for the young designer. Having already lived and experienced the “American Dream”, I think the creation of Meji Meji was Tolu’s attempt to discover more outside of it. Innovating the use of  our own identities as African people–remembering our roots at the epicentre always.

Tolu, at the time, was staying with her friend who specialises in graphic design and assisted in crafting the brand’s visual identity. From instantly being stocked in revered global experiential fashion retailer, Nordstrom, back when the brand launched–as well as hosting Meji Meji pop ups all over the world– now she manages to circle back to South Africa.

Judging from the tone of our conversation, Tolu Oye’s Meji Meji has plans on staying here too.

Something I picked up from Tolu during our enticing conversation is that when living in America, there was always a longing for home. I liken the feeling to an unshakeable nostalgia; a yearning to understand more about your personal identity and heritage as an African domiciled in a completely different environment. Her visits back home to Nigeria during her adolescence only served as fuel to motivate her to go back home to Lagos and decipher the meaning of her own Nigerian roots; for the purposes of her own personal and creative expansion. This story actually ties in perfectly with the brand name, Meji Meji, and bodes well with its naming conventions from which it was conceived. 

When I asked Tolu what the name means and how she decided upon it, she responded: “So I am Nigerian and there is a dialect within our culture called ‘Yoruba’. One day I sat down and flicked through a Yoruba dictionary and looked for a word which would resonate the most with my brand. I saw the word ‘Meji Meji’ and thought it sounded fun–the word means “two” or “double” and how I view it is that my blessings will come in two’s. Also, my grandmother stays on ‘Ore Meji’ Street, which basically means “two friends on a street.”

Tolu Oye has been designing all of her life. Genuinely. From learning how to sew as a kid from her mother, using pattern papers – it’s evident that her strength has always been working with her hands and creating as such. This skillset is not limited to clothing too, as Tolu also has prior experience within the hair & beauty space, through ‘Oye Green’. She also grew up in a very religious household (her father is a pastor in Ohio) so it makes sense why the Meji Meji graphics & concepts are always infused with Christianity and intertwined with different notions of faith and religion. That aspect of the brand identity is continuous; Tolu views Meji Meji as a Ministry more than anything, and this brand ideology is evident in the various religious motifs which are ever-present within her work.

We fast-forward to present-day Meji Meji and the future is brighter than ever. I honestly feel as if the fruits of her ambition, risk-taking, as well as the inherent belief in her abilities, have ripened–and what we witness today is an accumulation of years of hardwork and dedication. From 2020–the year when she founded Meji Meji–the list of accomplishments is astounding (and still getting longer!). The Nigerian brand has garnered international attention in such a short space of time–including features from Vogue America, Native Mag, Essence, and more. The proof is literally in the pudding.

In closing I pose a question: what can we learn from the story of Tolu Oye and her brainchild Meji Meji? One certainty is: authentic African stories will always win. For example, I see quintessential crossovers between Meji Meji’s work, local creative powerhouse ‘Ebumnandini’–and to me this is progress. Different African creative establishments need to move in unison across the diaspora–telling our unique African stories as only us Africans can. This is the embodiment of Tolu Oye’s Meji Meji and I cannot wait to witness the lengths to which she will propel her vision into.

Written by: Odwa Zamane

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Thandiswa Mazwai Premiers her Tiny Desk performance in a collaboration between NPR Music and globalFEST

Music makes the world go around – and Thandiswa Mazwai’s music truly makes the world a more vibrant and interconnected place. Dubbed the ‘Queen of South African Music’, Thandiswa’s music is celebrated for its powerful blend of traditional South African sounds with contemporary influences; particularly as one of the pioneers of Kwaito in the 1990s. Mazwai’s sonic expression touches on themes of love, identity, social justice, and the African experience, resonating deeply with audiences both in South Africa and around the world. So, it is a beautiful symphonic moment that on 1 April, Thandiswa and her band performed on NPR Music’s iconic ‘Tiny Desk’ platform in Washington D.C.

Ahead of Thandiswa’s forthcoming album, ‘Sankofa’, with the first single ‘Kulungile’, featuring Nduduzo Makhathini, set to be released on April 12 – Thandiswa’s performance in the iconic corner alcove of NPR Music’s HQ, is a deeply invigorating moment for African artistic expression. Thandiswa said of the show, “Tiny Desk was one of those dreams that came true for me and my fans. It was intimate and the team at NPR were extremely generous. Thank you to globalFEST for hooking us up. The show was shot on a snowy day in DC this January. They usually ask that performances are kept to about 15-18 mins. So we did about 5 songs, some of them shortened.” 

The performance is part of an annual collaboration between NPR music and globalFEST – an online music festival between the two spaces, with globalFEST focused on the expression of international music as accessible and celebrated, and NPR’s Tiny Desk as an iconic and intimate invitation into the live performances of artists across all genres and ranges. 

As the Tiny Desk report describes, “This phenomenal set starts with ‘Nizalwa Ngobani?’, translated from the Xhosa language to ‘Do you know where you come from?’ It’s dedicated to the ever-resilient people of South Africa. ‘I want to say to my people at home, thank you,’ she says. ‘I am known worldwide because of you.’ After, she sings a love song, ‘Ingoma,’ with the memorable hook ‘Ngoma we, ngoma we, ngoma we,’ which loosely translates to ‘You are a song that I never get tired of.’ and Thandiswa “dedicates the next song, ‘Children of the Soil,’ to all the people around the world who find themselves struggling for freedom. ‘This is our time to use our voices,’ she affirms. ‘This is the time for us to fight for freedom, wherever it is in the world.’ This song will be featured on her soon-to-be-released new album, Sankofa. And she finishes this set with the powerful ‘Abenguni’ and the catchy upbeat tune ‘Lahl’umlenze,’ with its resilient hook: ‘Why does it matter how I dance?’.”

Thandiswa Mazwai’s Tiny Desk polaroid, via @nprmusic IG

Thandiswa Mazwai via @thandiswamazwai IG

Thandiswa Mazwai’s influence extends beyond South Africa, as she has graced stages worldwide, performing at prestigious venues and events such as the FIFA 2010 World Cup Opening Ceremony, the Apollo Theatre, Radio City Hall, The Cannes Film Festival, Africa Express, BBC World Music Awards, TED, Afropunk, Carnegie Hall Citywide Festival, and Lincoln Centre, among others. Throughout her career, Mazwai has shared the stage with musical legends such as Salif Keita, Hugh Masekela, Busi Mhlongo, Stevie Wonder, Cesaria Evora, and Paul Simon, among many others. 

Thandiswa Mazwai’s impact on the music scene transcends borders, genres, and generations, making her an enduring figure in the cultural landscape of South Africa and beyond – cementing Thandiswa’s legacy as a musical luminary for the ages.

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Lukhanyo Mdingi Unveils ‘the Provenance Part II’ Launching At Constitution Hill

Lukhanyo Mdingi‘s eponymous label embodies the intricate blend of contemporary and historical African design, paying homage to the profound creativity originating from South Africa and the wider African continent. Following the label’s shared victory of the LVMH Karl Lagerfeld Prize and subsequent appearances at Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Mdingi’s brand has adopted a patient and intentional strategy, nurturing its unique perspective to grow organically. This approach has garnered acknowledgment from the AMIRI Prize committee, culminating in its recent triumph in 2023.

The Provenance Part II exhibition focuses on preserving archives and delving into South Africa’s deep heritage of Bantu indigeneity and Black Consciousness. Through exploring Textiles, Literature, and Music, it sparks intellectual and creative expression. The exhibition prompts an inquiry into the role of colonialism and mission-work in South Africa’s history, illustrating how these frameworks have shaped expressions, always grounded in indigeneity.

Part II embodies the collaborative spirit, co-curated by Visual Artist Banele Khoza and The MANOR. Together, they highlight how these themes shape raw materials, language, and sound into nuanced expressions of Culture, Art, and Identity.

Mdingi explains his choice of location, saying, “The rich political history of Constitution Hill resonates to the spirit and has a nuanced sensibility of the project.” He elaborates, “Within the divided themes within the exhibition, each theme centres around black consciousness within the context of South African history, Constitution Hill serves as the most ideal backdrop to represent our latest offerings.”

Mdingi emphasizes the importance of diverse audiences and demographics experiencing the exhibition to gain deeper insights into the themes of Textiles, Literature, and Music. He shares, “Exploring this project has been a personal journey for me and what I found along the way has been a revealing  experience of continuous inspiration – I hope that there is a sentiment of this feeling that can be felt by those that choose to immerse themselves in it.”

Exhibition Date
Opening Night: 4th April – 19h00 PM – 22h00 PM
Exhibition Duration Date: 4th April – 17th June 2024
Location: Constitution Hill – 11 Kotze Street, Braamfontein – Women’s Jail Exhibition Wing, Johannesburg 

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Chapter 25 | Six South African Fashion Photographers You Should Know About

When we launched Interlude just over two years ago, we had envisioned a specific dimension to the idea of a South African-focused fashion column. This guiding spirit intended to highlight the roles and responsibilities involved in this construct of a ‘fashion industry’ – the very people and skill sets that make a fashion landscape, well, possible. In two years, Interlude has focused primarily on brands –  as South Africa’s fashion landscape has seen steady growth in creative and entrepreneurial expression. So, it is with great pleasure that Chapter 25 returns to looking at individuals within South African fashion, fulfilling a very specific and indelible role. Namely, the photographer. 

The Aristotelian phrase ‘the whole is greater than the sum of its parts’ is a consistent truth, particularly in an industry upon which collaboration is an absolute central tenet. The role of the photographer is interesting – neither more important, yet completely critical in a space that relies on visual output as its main expression. The photographer of any campaign and editorial – for any shoot, collection or story – are the intermediary between the viewer and the subject. Fashion is mediated, quite literally, through the point of view of the photographer; who has the specific role of engaging with the point of view, woven together by an entire team. This is a responsibility exclusive to the photographer and the importance of their role cannot be overemphasised. 

Fashion has sometimes had an unfair rap for being superfluous or unnecessary and even in the midst of a landscape that demands intense commercial pursuits, I have always felt that fashion is one of our most important aspects of cultural production. Tim Walker, the British fashion photographer (his Vogue archive here of his prominent work in the 90s and 200s fashion mag era, is worth a deep dive) said The point of fashion is that you take the picture you want. And fashion is the only photography that allows fantasy, and I’m a fantasist.” and “I know the world that I am painting is not a reality. It is a whim, an entertainment to provoke something in people, whether as escapism or relief. I think that is very valid.” 

When we think of fashion imagery as offering escapism or relief – and this being valid – the South African fashion photographic context continues to be one of the clearest case studies that I know of. Through fashion image-making, our country is able to explore and express the wide array of creative, cultural and representational celebrations – critical for our future, relevant for our present and accounting for our past. 

South Africa has no shortage of photographers. For the purpose of this edition, we are looking at a few image-makers for whom ‘fashion’ forms an intrinsic part of their work. These are photographers whose work is deeply pronounced – unique in their own right – and collectively form part of a brilliant cast of South African image-makers that are developing fashion’s landscape both locally and internationally.

BASETSANA ‘BASSIE’ MALULEKA 

Bassie Maluleka is a South African fashion photographer, now based in Brisbane, Australia. Her thematic concern is rooted in fashion – though, more in what fashion does to express and derive representation. With past clients such as Puma, Nike and published in Vogue Italia (to name a few), Bassie’s focus is to highlight women, specifically Black women, through her lens. When asked what she ‘intends’, with each image that she creates – Bassie says that collaboration is her guide, “I’m in the business of making people feel something when they look at my work and that starts with the team I choose to work with! I’ve had the privilege of working with amazing models, makeup artists, stylists who know how to use the garments in the most unconventional way which shows versatility and is especially important when we’re shooting creative work.”

Cowboy Test & The Decks photographed by Bassie Maluleka

TŚELE NTHANE 

Tśele Nthane is one of the most exciting photographers, arriving on the scene in the last few years – with soaring success. Last year, Tśele made his debut in Milan and Paris, encouraged by both Cris Fragkou and Filippo Fior to head backstage and understand this aspect of shooting fashion week. with some of the most incredible BTS and street photography that I’ve seen in a long, long time. Tśele notes that I love that a fashion image can truly be anything that makes you feel”, and it’s precisely this feeling that is so stark across all of his imagery. Tśele’s visual storytelling is already grounded in a signature richness and authenticity – one can only imagine what lies ahead.

JAIMI ROBIN

Jaimi Robin is a fashion, portrait and documentary photographer based in Cape Town. Focused on fashion as a way to capture the inherent joy and authenticity in Cape Town’s youth – with an emphasis on streetwear & fashion brands – Jaimi’s foray into art direction is part of her developing point of view, as she pursues ‘the immortalisation that a photograph offers.’ When asking Jaimi what interests her about fashion, she says that as it evolves, it invites us, especially as young creators, to grow and blend our development with its constant evolution. For me, there’s nothing more beautiful than capturing the human form, and fashion offers a way to adorn it with nowness, allowing us to immortalise the present beyond just the click of a camera.”

ELLE LEGAE SEHLAKO 

Elle Sehlako is a photographer, videographer and creative director. Affectionately known as ‘Blackmilk’ – Elle originates from Soweto, Johannesburg and is currently a Sony Ambassador, with a specific focus on encouraging and mentoring women entering the image-making space. With clients like Nike, Fila, Flying Fish and Netflix behind her name – Elle is part of South Africa’s contemporary editorial scene, shooting covers for Cosmopolitan, GQ South Africa and Hype Mag.

Boity for Hype Mag photographed by Elle Legae Sehlako

FILA campaign photographed by Elle Legae Sehlako

Photographed by Elle Legae Sehlako

ANDILE PHEWA

Andile Phewa is a documentary photographer, originally from Durban, now based in Cape Town. Having trained at the The Market Photo Workshop in Johannesburg, Andile Phewa is one of South Africa’s leading photographers in both commercial and fine-art photography. A master of low-light shadows and photography, Andile’s career spans locally and internationally – in fashion, landscape and most essentially, the art of visual storytelling.

ashluxe campaign, photographed by Andile Phewa

Confections X Collections at Mount Nelson Hotel, photographed by Andile Phewa

ashluxe campaign, photographed by Andile Phewa

ELIE BENISTANT 

French-South African photographer, Elie Benistant, is based in Paris – and his imagery cuts an exceptional portrait of Paris’ burgeoning independent fashion scene, beyond the traditional and established fashion houses. From campaigns for Botter Paris to shooting a campaign for BLUEMARBLE Paris (in what appears to be Kommetjie, Cape Town, no less) – Elie’s practice is human-centric, and portrays the innate richness of culture involved in Paris’ creative scene. Colour is key for Elie’s image-making, with his images showcasing a clear bi-continental perspective of creative expression. 

Fashion photography, as the mediator between the viewers and the subject – the publication and the reader, or the brand and the consumer, holds a profound responsibility in conveying the essence of our cultural and creative expression. Photography is a suffusion of technical skill and artistic vision, walking that razor-thin line between creativity and pragmatism. These six photographers are a stunning sample of just how rich South Africa’s image-making scene is, whether working here in the country or abroad. We look forward to seeing more of the world through their lens’ – onwards and upwards.

Botter Paris photographed by Elie Benistant

CALLA Paris photographed by Elie Bentistant

Written by: Holly Beaton
For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Vans Partners with Atiba Jefferson as Brand Curator to Unlock the Future of Skateboarding

The original skateboarding brand, Vans proudly welcomes Atiba Jefferson as Brand Curator. Following the success of the OTW by Vans launch, this partnership marks a significant step in Vans’ commitment to its new brand approach of Always Pushing, inspiring consumers to create their path with the commitment to keep going and drive a perpetuity of progression.  

Vans has chosen Atiba, one of the most influential figures in skateboarding culture and a long-time partner, to co-create with Vans Skateboarding and build a vision for the brand’s future. Together with Vans, Atiba will work to re-invent what skateboarding means for Vans by unlocking a global network of trailblazers to connect through product design and consumer experiences, all in service to the change-makers who want to push culture forward. 

Atiba’s impact and portfolio span across the collective cultures of art, music, design, and streetwear working with change-makers across the NBA, world-renowned musicians, global designers, and most importantly, pioneers in the world of skateboarding. It is because of his ability to bridge skateboarding with global youth culture seamlessly that makes him the ideal partner to push Vans to the forefront. 

Vans, the pioneering skateboarding brand, and cultural catalyst for over 50 years was founded in 1966 by Paul Van Doren driven by his creative and innovative vision to do things better. The brand was adopted by a trailblazing group of skateboarders from Dogtown, propelling Vans to become a global icon of skateboarding.

Ray Barbee Back Smith, Atiba

OTW, Rowan Zorilla, Atiba

Today, Vans is re-imagining the original spirit of freedom and progression rooted in skateboarding with a new campaign – Always Pushing. “Always Pushing is a renewal of Vans’ commitment to pushing skateboarding forward,” shares Drieke Leenknegt, Vans Global Chief Marketing Officer. “Like the generation that founded Vans’ non-conforming, ‘Off The Wall’ mindset, we also serve the future generation that looks to skateboarding and the culture that surrounds it to drive progression and positive change. Atiba is the perfect partner as the driver to that evolution.”  

 For more information, follow @Vans_za and @VansSkate on social media or visit vans.co.za and vans.co.uk/skateboarding.  

About Vans
Vans®, a VF Corporation (NYSE: VFC) brand, is the original action sports footwear, apparel, and accessories brand. Vans® authentic collections are sold in 97 countries through a network of subsidiaries, distributors, and international offices. Vans® has over 2,000 retail locations globally including owned, concession and partnership doors. The Vans® brand promotes creative self-expression in youth culture across action sports, art, music, and street culture and delivers progressive platforms such as Vans Checkerboard Day, Vans Park Series, Vans Triple Crown of Surfing®, Vans Custom Culture, and Vans’ cultural hub and international music venue, House of Vans.

Vans, “Off the Wall” Since ’66
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Press Release Courtesy of The Bread 

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

South African Rock Band WONDERboom Release a New Video for their Single Deadly

South African rock band, WONDERboom, have been a formidable presence in the country’s music scene for an impressive 28 years. Continuously evolving and dominating stages worldwide, the quartet defies expectations and surpasses their own musical legacies with each endeavour. Thriving on their exceptional chemistry, both on and off stage, WONDERboom recognizes the magic they create together surpasses the sum of its parts. Their live performances are a testament to this synergy, captivating audiences with a diverse sound spanning rock, funk, punk, and afro-dance.

The band has unveiled the video for their latest single, ‘Deadly’, taken from their upcoming album “Hard Mode,” via Just Music.

“We heard something was brewing in Citos original demo of ‘Deadly’ and once we had worked out how the parts were gonna go, there was still a massive hole in the lyrics – until one day the word ‘Deadly’ dropped on us, and the whole song had a direction, a feel, a motif, something to hang out hats on. It turned into a lovely dark pop affair with a video of equal pop integrity and pure fun to boot. ‘Deadly’ is a sweet unforgettable baby we made together with the most awesome people !” – Martin Schofield, guitarist

“The song’s musical inspiration came to me after an interview, where I was reminiscing about my childhood, in the 80s. Springsteen’s ‘Dancing In The Dark’, the U.S. TV series, ‘Whizz Kids’ (which was the working title for a while), and my first Casio keyboard – all swirling in my head. The innocence of those times and the sense of great adventure. Deadly tapped into that feeling for me, especially the post-chorus instrumental. Made me feel like Elliot cruising on my BMX with E.T. in the basket. And the video embraces those fun times, not just for me but also for everyone else involved and those who watch it.” – Cito, vocals

Guitarist Martin Schofield shares, “It was definitely one of the most enjoyable videos we’ve ever done. The extras and ‘actors’ made it! Ryan DuToit from Dutwaa Creative Agency did a fantastic job on concept and filming with a ‘rock n roll’ budget. As a band, we’ve never done a sports-themed music video. Too much fun was had as we realized how useless we were/are at serious ‘sport.’ The song ‘Deadly’ is dark yet poppy, and it juxtaposes the video really well. Enjoy it, we did!”

For fans eagerly anticipating Wonderboom’s latest offering, ‘Deadly’ promises to be another exciting addition to their catalog, showcasing the band’s signature blend of energy, creativity, and musical prowess.

Listen to ‘Deadly’ HERE