Welcome Back, Blunt Magazine!

I can’t remember how Blunt Magazine came up on my feed a few weeks ago – but I can tell you that I did a huge double take. Suddenly, I was transported to my childhood – and while I was a kid and tween during the 2000s, Blunt Magazine is a vivid association I have with my older brother Warren, and the older brothers of my best friends – the rebellion and freedom that skateboarding, and all its intersections, has long been as an imprint in our collective consciousness. Scrolling through their feed, as part of their relaunch under founder Miles Masteron, all I can hear is Tom DeLonge’s So-Cal drawl chanting in my head, tempered by memories of Warren donning his trusty gig blazer (emblazoned with pins and badges, some of them being Blunt merch) to head to Wynberg Sports Club. Blunt was the Mecca of South African subculture between 1997 and 2008 – and its closing was one of many sombre tales in the slowly dissolving arena of South African print publishing. Unfortunately, within the constraints of capitalist society, passion and devotion don’t always turn a profit – and in the late 2000s, digital information ramped up to bring us to where we are now; the point of no return. Fourteen years after Blunt’s exit stage left, Miles Masterson has returned to Cape Town after years of toiling corporate fields, and somewhat encouraged by his son’s own growing interest in skating, Miles is determined to bring Blunt backa necessary task in the 25th year since it was founded, and for a poignant moment in which skateboarding enters a new cycle of importance in Africa.

Honestly, I could talk to Miles for hours – in our conversation, he is a wellspring of wisdom and a guardian of a particularly special time in South Africa. Post-1994, our country began to open up to the world – and suddenly, we were able to engage directly with the global occurrences in adrenaline sports, music, clothing and the acceleration of design and art, both digitally and on the streets. Yet, there is a decidedly South African way in which this zeitgeist was being met here – and skating had always been the craft of the misfits. Miles remincises on the earliest conception of Blunt, “I was living in the UK during winter and traveling to surf in the summer. After a long trip to Sumbawa, this beautifully remote island in Indonesia, I came back and felt like I needed a change of some kind. It was the mid-90s, and the internet had made a huge impression on me – especially being in the UK, it was already established – people had websites, email addresses. It was fully happening. It was at this point, late ‘96, where I was on my way to book a surf trip to the Canary Islands, which I had saved up for working 12 hours a day, 7 days a week on building sites and living in a pretty infamous semi-squat house in Lily Road, Hammersmith. On my way there, I saw an advert for a Canon camera – and the next thing I knew, I had bought the camera and was booking a ticket home at SAA. That was the camera I used throughout the early days of Blunt. That was the beginning of it – that decision to come home. I kind of knew things were going to take off here in the scene – a skate and surf scene that had a renewed sense of autonomy, freedom and a democratic vision.”

When the first issue of Blunt was born, July 1997, it had been precipitated by Mile’s working with legendary surf photographer Lance Slabbert – who himself was stepping into shooting fashion. It was this multi-thematic interest that would foreshadow the vision of Blunt. Skating, in many ways, is a conduit for punk, hip-hop, graffiti, streetwear – gigs, dive bars, the beach, festivals – it’s the physical arm of a much larger entity largely defined by an innate resilience among young people against all manner of the manipulation (subtle and overt) of human beings by a rigid, oppressive society. This was Miles’ “aha!” moment – he wanted to make a magazine that captured all of it; the sounds, the movement, the energy of this attitude; for himself and his own lived experience growing up skating in Hout Bay, and for those around him too – but particularly so, for the kids who he knew would need the respite skating and its community can offer. In reflecting on the self-expression of subcultural spaces, a clear indicator of Blunt Magazine’s presence in South Africa, and stickers were one such way Miles knew they were on course, “In our first year of launching, we had R2000 available for marketing. That’s it. I spent the entire budget on stickers – and this became a synonymous part of our magazine. Our first year was quite slow, we sold about 4000 copies, and then the second year it blew up to 10000 – and then we became one of the fastest growing magazines in the country, and by the fifth year we were in the top fifty magazines in the country. All the while, I could kind of track this through our stickers – if they were on boards and lamp-posts city to city – but the craziest part was when we went on roadtrips, arrive in small dorpies and find Blunt stickers emblazoned like a coded message, a reminder that the thread we were putting out was really running through the country.” Miles expresses a deeply emotive recall of this – telling me that the magazine was exactly for those kids without access, of all races and backgrounds. In Cape Town, Durban and Joburg the culture and scene was alive and well with events, gigs and comps growing steadily, where people could gather and connect – but further out, in the many parts of our country home to small towns, skating was still a reprieve from that isolation that often is often the drawcard for those who find the sport.

I don’t think we would have been Blunt, the way we were, without the music component. We gave a tangible bridge between skating and the sounds that inform this passion. By the third year, half the magazine was dedicated to music – and it’s always been the glue that has held these subcultures together. Alongside this the tattooists, the spray-can artists and those dabbling in graphic design found a home I think – you know, I don’t know anyone really who skates that isn’t intrinsically creative. I think the outlawed nature of skating draws in naturally rebellious people – because skating is difficult, too. It takes a lot of practice, discipline and you sign up to get hurt and be in serious physical pain at certain points. We could reach the kids who weren’t jocks, who listened to alternative music and wore strange clothes, and I think Blunt showed them that hey, this spirit is forever – you can grow up, and still be different, and that’s a beautiful thing. Skating, music and creativity is our escape and remedy.” Miles muses about the intention and impact Blunt grew to have, and the voice he felt Blunt was able to give South African kids in those years. I ask Miles why now, for Blunt’s return? We used to get letters about the way Blunt made kids feel back then, and I feel that there is a need for that now. Especially as we are seeing skating opening up to girls and women, and more so across racial lines too – and I think magazines, whether digital or print, are powerful for telling these stories, by the people for the people. I still skate, even today at 50 years old, and I think both the industry needs it, but we need it too. I am sort of an elder now, and I want to pass down what Blunt was and still is – especially now that I am watching my son get into skating, and be so curious about this thing we started before he was even born.”

Since the Dogtown era of the 70s (Emile Hirsch as Jay Adams in Lords of Dogtown was my first crush, aside from Kurt Cobain) and the invention of the polyurethane wheel – skateboarding remains a pulsing refuge. From the rise of skateboarding among girls in Bangladesh to the work of Skateistan from Afghanistan to Cambodia, and even here in South Africa – what was once a wayward activity for outcasts is now a powerful tool for education and support throughout the world. Virgil’s legacy lives on in Ghana through the opening of the Off-White skate park, and we have many initiatives in South Africa such as the skate park at Thanda’s Community Centre in Mtwalume, KZN. It’s with this dedication to the next generation of skateboarders and creatives across the world that Miles, and us at CEC, believe wholeheartedly in Blunt’s comeback. Viva.   

Written by: Holly Bell Beaton

Fashion as Experimental Play with Stylist Erin Simon

I think most people who choose a career in fashion knew it was meant for them from a young age – and although the industry is very different from the art of fashion expression, creativity always finds a way to burst through even in the most commercial or modular briefs. While celebrating designers is hugely important, working in the periphery of this space has shown me that design and garment construction are truly one aspect of how fashion is born – and that the teams behind our most beloved editorials and inspiring shows are equal to bringing a sartorial vision into being. We have an incredible, burgeoning array of sartorial talent in South African, and Erin Simon is a stylist I believe constantly invites us into her own viewpoint and essence in her work. Kaleidoscopic colours, textures and style dart between her work and her own personal style, and there is a joy in both that remains congruent; a clear example of how one’s own personality as a creative has immense power to direct a vision.

In our conversation, I ask about the very beginning of it all – and Erin reflects far back to when she was a kid, apt as she has moved back to her family home and is speaking to me from her childhood bedroom. “My career story is definitely like many artists and creatives in that it was a balance of right time, right place and then my ability to show up and respond to those moments. But further back than that, I always used to look at the mannequins in the windows and think someone must be dressing them – and who is doing that? Is that their job? My mom really encouraged that curiosity, because I always loved clothes and from a young age selected clothes that made a statement, I always stood out, even like wearing weird red sneakers to match my red bike. It was always an important aspect of showing who I am.” I can relate to this – I am told from the age of 3 or 4, I would ask my god-mother if I could try on her “klip-klop” shoes – high heels – and with Erin, that fascination seems to be completely inborn; a part of who she is, too. How then, did styling happen for her? “When I matriculated, I was convinced I needed to go to design school. That seemed like the only avenue to get into this world. My mom, luckily, suggested I think more practically and we ended up finding this pamphlet for a course at CPUT. Although it was about becoming a buyer, the pamphlet had a few potential job outcomes from this qualification – and I saw the word “stylist”, and I was in the back of the car, the sun beaming through the window and shining on that word. I think that is probably the single, quite poetic moment that I refer back to even today.” I am reminded of my own experience with fashion education in South Africa being very singularly focused on design – and even the array of schools we do have tend to be quite inaccessible. In this way, fashion is one of those industries that does require working as experience – shadowing, learning and adapting.

“I was spending more time in town and ended up meeting Fani Segerman – and it was before the days of IG and I messaged her on Facebook, asking if I could shadow her. It was Fani who connected me with Crystal Birch, before she became a milliner, and for whom I assisted and learned so much from.” Erins tells me in this really wonderful, cross-connecting piece of 2010’s Cape Town fashion history. “Styling is one of those practices that is learned through working with others. Having an eye is a great start, but I think it was Bee Diamondhead who said in an article that I read, that test shoots are so critical for experimenting, playing and honing in on your own aesthetic language. I stand by that today, and I think a lot of the most successful stylists are those who have been able to make it happen, even with limited resources and one or two friends, to just get that creative energy out and unleashed in the world. ideas can’t be stagnant, and they don’t have to always wait for the “right” moment to come out. Building a good book is a dance between proving yourself, while getting the recognition from your peers for jobs at the same time.”

Erin’s personal IG feed is a sublime curation of creative power – and the feeling of fun is so necessary in an all-too-often stiff industry. In bring her styling practice firmly into her sphere of self-expression as an artist and performer, Erin teases an exciting new venture for her own artistry – an alter ego, soon to be released alongside an EP;I have always really loved rock music, the punk scene and the aesthetics that go with those spaces – it’s a huge way my older brother and I have always bonded, through metal! One day I was at work and I was writing this punk song in my head, and by the end of the day I was like – woah, I like this…and my brother is a musician, so we decided to make an EP. So ED was born, the character I become who creates this music, and is able to dress and say all the things I might be too reluctant to as Erin. It’s an extension of myself – of course – but she is also this whole new part of me that I am bringing into being, and it’s been quite incredible.” This astounds me – as stylists are expected to be the unseen hands, the Elven hands that magically make things happen behind the scenes. Erin is making herself her own muse – and that, I believe, makes her ability as a stylist and image-maker all the more authentic. Challenging how we think people or society want to perceive us or our work is beautiful and brave, and Erin is doing this, instead tapping into the innate wellspring of inspiration we all have within us. 

Where does Erin see the potential or pitfalls in South African fashion, right now? “We absolutely need far more people of colour in production teams. A lot of the work is still quite centered around a white-viewpoint – and while there is space for everyone, it just doesn’t speak to the reality of our country. I would love to see more HOD’s (Head of Department), production companies and agencies prioritizing this – and giving people the ability to have trainees. Mentorship is critical, and it was how I and many of my peers got started.” 

/// Keep a look out on Erin’s Instagram for upcoming releases of her punk persona, EEEDDEEE!

Written by: Holly Bell Beaton

Cross-Continental Kamohelo Khoaripe

Destiny is a funny thing – we tend to believe it is a pre-conceivable, logical array of variables that just unfold before us – and we, in many ways, are just the participating observer along for the ride. For Kamohelo Khoaripe, his destiny surely began in Johannesburg – but it has since come to be realized nearly 10 000 km away in the city of Stockholm, Sweden. With an impressive career behind and ahead of him, Kamo is the frontman for electro quartet Off The Meds alongside Adrian Lux, Carli Löf, and Måns Glaeser, and as well as a notable solo musician and performer. A relationship led Kamo to move to Stockholm around 2014, and while he may have had some inner murmurings about music – it certainly hadn’t manifested outwardly yet – and not until a recording of Kamo freestyling was played in the early hours of a messy house party. Adrian, Carli and Måns couldn’t believe the flow coming from their friends’ being – and soon after, Kamo was in the studio (specifically, Studio Barnhus) with them, bringing Off The Meds into being. What makes their arrangement so spectacular is certainly the contrasted drowsiness and acceleration of sonic sound-scapes in their tracks, but perhaps more so intriguing is Kamo’s lyricism; verses written almost entirely in an amalgamated Zulu-Tsotsitaal-English – a kind of cultural experimental with little intent other than to harness the most expression from each member of the band.

Kamo is currently at home in Joburg, honing in on his own set of collaborations while preparing to release Off The Meds’ next EP – the first in two years since their debut, self-titled album in November 2020. In asking Kamo about finding music halfway across the world, he says; “Yeah, I was speaking to a friend of mine the other day about that. I think it was meant to happen this way, and that maybe being in a city that wasn’t my home allowed me to take more of a risk – I really got to venture into this with friends, through relationships made in each other’s homes post-rave or post-party – and I think when you move away from home, you already have to channel a lot of courage to make it happen.” A strange alchemy came out of the pandemic, in which our world was shocked to its core – but in a slightly “positive” way, it has meant a lot of personal re-assessment for creatives regarding their output, and on this Kamo adds, “I am in no rush, really. I have been able to make so much music in the last few years, and now being at home in Joburg, I am with family, friends – taking my time, and being able to relax.  I am in a zen-state here in South Africa, because even though Joburg is wildly fast-paced – like the New York of Africa – it’s also my home of origin, so I can approach my time here however I want. I have two cities defining me and my style, Stockholm and Joburg, and I think both places serve different purposes, beyond comparison to each other.” I am curious to know the pace though – it seems quite unusual to spend the success of their album relatively quiet on the production front – and Kamo explains, “The industry in South Africa is modeled after the USA or UK, in which hype is maintained through constant output and pushing out work. It’s totally different in Sweden and most of Europe; we could take two years to go off on our individual paths, and yet work on the upcoming EP within a very comfortable timeline.’’When it comes to holding together a cross-continental music collaboration, Kamo says their experience as Off The Meds has been decidedly seamless, “I think our friendships are only really tested when it comes to choosing song names. It’s such a draw factor, and sort of like the crown you place on top of this snippet of work – so I think that’s when tensions rise, which is ironic as it appears as the easiest part.”

A crazy turn of events occurred last year during the Swedish Grammy’s – known simply as Grammis – in which they walked away with the award for the Electro/Dance category – Kamo says, “I couldn’t believe it. We won the award and yet nearly all the songs are in Zulu / Tsotsitaal – it’s so beautiful, because it is a reminder that music transcends boundaries. When we play live, people are singing along to my lyrics – and my language – and it’s as if they know what every word means. I think this is cultural sharing in the way it’s meant to be.” 

For now, Kamo is in that liminal space of creating and releasing. Working on his DJ persona, Michael Dangerous, the pursuit is to ride this wave and share all the parts of himself that he can – no boxing in or reducing to one single thread of who he is – here at home, and beyond. 

We are super honoured to offer a special playlist curated by Kamo for Connect Everything Collective – a mixture of his current state and taste, from South Africa to around the world. Put it on and kick back at this link here.

Written by: Holly Bell Beaton

Interlude Chapter 03 | A Beginner’s Guide to Digital Fashion

I have grown increasingly suspicious of our acceleration towards the ever-narrowing distance between ourselves and the advancements in technology. Growing up, I was at the late stage of cell phones as commonplace tools for kids – receiving a bright yellow Nokia 5110 when I was 12 handed down by my grandfather, used strictly for playing Snake and contacting my mom. Even in the years ensuing, rapid acceleration took place and in high school everyone had Blackberrys – and here we are now, smartphones and social media lives in full swing. It’s almost incomprehensible to imagine our lives without technology; bouts of load-shedding in South Africa are a regular reminder of this, and thinking of the world continuing to push on without the internet or Zoom during the pandemic is difficult. When Zuck rebranded Facebook as “Meta” in 2021 – I was struck by how much fear overcame me, and how many preconceived notions I had built up around our integration with technology. In the case of fashion, imagining it existing beyond a tactical and tangible sense seemed strange; and I found myself at a cross-road. Either, I could continue to run this story that digital fashion is just an aesthetic pull from the coded void, or I could surrender to the fact that in order to engage with human reality in its pursuit, I would need to at least critically investigate and prioritize learning about this movement in order for my opinions to hold any weight.

This brings us to Chapter 03 of Interlude – a quarterly, equinoctial benchmark that is intended as a beginner’s guide to digital fashion. In presenting both the motivations for digital fashion, and the criticisms – I encourage anyone reading this to form their own stance. Mine is yet to be fully formed – and the beauty of stances or opinions is that they are fluid, and should continue to develop and shift along with one’s own experiential understandings. We need not abide by one fixed idea if that idea stands to flow along with us in a meaningful way. The emphasis of this edition is the term “beginner” – as I am a beginner in the realm of digital fashion, and thus can only offer a rough roadmap of some things to consider and research, should you wish.

Digital fashion is any visual representation or rendering of clothing/style or sartorial expression that has been produced using 3D software or computer tech. In many ways – digital fashion is not new, it is an inherent aspect of the gaming community and even my own obsession with dressing my Sims (1, 2 and 3 versions) as a kid was a kind of digital fashion. I see Final Fantasy – the Japanese science-fantasy role-playing video game – as an original example of the kind of expressive possibilities there are with 3D garment fashion, with designer Ayumi Namae’s particular ability to synthesize cultural, mythical and functional dress for characters that enrich the game’s overall play for users. For anyone in fashion school, CAD is a very familiar transition that has been implemented into the taught design process – the computerization of flat sketching using software programs that incorporate both the creative and technical requirements for drawing clothing intended for production.

Digital fashion within a 3D sense furthers this computerization by offering a virtual “fitting” – and programs such as Marvelous Designer allow users to take a  2D flat pattern and figure it out on screen, which can then be draped, shaded and textured onto a 3D body. While fashion students around the world compromise collections and even mock-up patterns due to a lack of access or funds to certain fabrics, this frontier of design offers a solution to retaining unbridled creativity within the digital realm while minimizing fabric waste. Purists could argue that this is the very nature of the initiation process for a designer; brilliance tested by resource constraints or the simple trial error that mock-ups offer in refining silhouettes and form. While the latter is tentatively true, fashion as an industry may have to forgo its traditional expectations given the exceeding ecological and social damage it perpetuates, top to bottom – from couture to fast fashion.

This brings us to another, newer aspect of digital fashion – its rising economic component, driven by a popularization of crypto-currency, NFTs and virtual reality. Most of us, with the access needed to engage (a conversation entirely on its own), have a virtual extension of ourselves in the form of social media. Starting with my Facebook account, to my Tumblr blog as a teenager, to my Instagram – I have spent years both exploring and curating my aesthetic interests and personality. These online spaces serve as a representation of who we are, and who we wish to be – and the truth of both being somewhere in the middle. One of the leading platforms in digital fashion is The Fabricant, the first professed “Digital Fashion House” that creates and sells exclusively virtual clothing – partnering with brands such as Puma and Buffalo London to conceptual pieces entirely for digital use. Part of their manifesto states, “Our work exists beyond

the current concepts of catwalks, photographers, studios and sample sizes. For The Fabricant, imagination is our only atelier, and our fashion stories are free from the constraints of the material world.” This is a compelling case for digital fashion – yet all too often material constraints are emphasized, and I wonder that given its infancy, perhaps digital fashion could serve to shift some of the violent ways in which physical fashion is created, distributed and marketed. If we could build worlds that were totally imagined – a playground for expression – surely we need to ensure that there are ethical considerations to be had and implemented, such as inclusivity and accessibility for race, gender and socio-economic diversity? With the gap inextricable between the rich and poor growing with immense force, it feels imperative that our viewpoints and perspectives in the global south are forged – in all things, but in this case the digitization of reality.

Evelyn Mora is the founder of Helsinki Fashion Week – the most sustainable fashion week recorded to date – and after realising a fashion show could never be truly sustainable, she ventured into creating a digitized fashion world, Digital Village, that serves as a virtual community centre in the pursuit of knowledge sharing around tech intermixed with sartorial expression and celebration. Evelyn enlisted Normative to create a report analyzing the measured sustainability of the two – and it was shown that the carbon footprint of Helsinki Fashion Week per visitor dropped from 137 kg to 0.66 kg carbon dioxide equivalent after switching to a purely digital format in 2020. While this does not mean digital fashion shows are better – remember, powering technology such as blockchain and computers extract 

immense amounts of energy – this does offer some insight into what we might expect going forward. The pandemic saw almost the entire fashion season of 2020 and the beginning of 2021 go fully online – with many of us around the world being privy to a real-time view of the runways, previously afforded to us either afterwards or even in the form of stills only. Recently, designer Rich Mnisi showed us what is possible for campaigns and editorials with his recent collection, JAMES, employing 3D artist Scumboy to build both a virtual landscape and render a Rich Mnisi dress into a virtual format. What resulted was an exceptional and visceral world unique to Rich Mnisi – and this plays deeply into the shift we have seen in fashion for brands to truly tell a story while creating products.

I am both excited and trepid about the future – we have a lot to iron out, or cast out entirely, in the physical world; let alone experimenting digitally. With this being said, I truly believe South Africa (and Africa at large) have an immense contribution to make to this realm – always with critical thinking, and an understanding that there tends to not be any magical solution – least not when it comes to currencies like crypto, secrecy as

actual money. But there is hope – and the kind of hope that is rooted in awareness, and a strong pursuit towards a fashion industry (local and global) that speaks closer to who we really are as human beings than the smoke and mirrors of capitalism’s illusions. I think there will need to be a beginner’s guide 2.0 in time – for now, see below for a cute resource list to further your thinking on digital fash-un. 

RESOURCE LIST:

Watch this recent talk by SHOWstudio on digital fashion as the future of the industry.

Read this as an example of 3D technology used by designer Hannah Jewett for jewellery making.

Analyze the report by Normative on sustainability between Helsinki Fashion Week and its subsequent digitization.

Listen to this and learn how late fashion really is to the digital party, and why representation is the only way forward.

 

 

Curated & Written by Holly Bell Beaton

Dutch Producer, Writer, and Artist Goldkimono Releases His Magnetic New Single “What I Got”

Dutch producer, writer, and artist Goldkimono releases his magnetic new single “What I Got,” via Camp Kimono Records ahead of his debut album and headlining tour.

Music captured Goldkimono, aka Tienus Konijnenburg’s, imagination from before he can remember. His mom tells the story of the first time his family visited their neighbor’s house who owned a piano. At three years old, Tienus headed straight for the instrument totally enamoured with curiosity and when the woman of the house passed away her husband gifted the piano to Tienus and his family and he began classical piano lessons at age five. Switching gears upon hearing Freddy Mercury from a friend’s tape deck. “I rebelled against classical music which took me to blues and blues improvisation. I followed my joy.” Inspired by acts like Queen and later Wutang Clan, groups who created entire worlds within a single song.

Tienus is Inspired by unity and the need for more of it, which makes the Goldkimono project driven by his desire to spread positive intention. “It goes further than music. Music is the vehicle. We share everything, we share the air, the trees, the same molecules, the same atoms, we are all connected,” says Tienus. “Behind every piece of music is a person and an intention. To me it’s all about grabbing that intention and my own personal experience and using my vehicle to uplift people. The frequency of that intention will come through the speakers. I want to be in service of that – in service to people through music.”

Goldkimono (credits include Tai Verdes “AOK” and Kygo “Firestone”) was inspired by his time living in Venice Beach, California, and “What I Got” sounds just like the slow break of a SoCal wave at golden hour. The irresistible hook swims carefree through a warm, 90s hip hop meets reggae influenced beat while its lyrical earworm feels like the peace and love version of a middle finger to the conditions of societal pressures. “What I Got” is about believing in yourself,” says Goldkimono. “Living your own truth. And accepting yourself in times where other people may not. To keep strong and rooted in your own journey and direction. Even if it’s the road less traveled, or less approved. “What I Got” is about the strength to sing your own song. The one that plays inside your heart. Instead of conforming to the melodies of other people’s expectations.” A tailor made soundtrack for the free spirited, “What I Got It” is sure to bring good vibrations all spring and summer.

Goldkimono is set to release his 14-track debut album ‘The Legend of Goldkimono’ on April 15, which includes “To Tomorrow,” Goldkimono’s RIAA Certified Gold top 20 charting debut single produced by Crada (Drake, Kid Cudi, Kendrick Lamar), as well as “Electric Swing” that was prominently featured in the #1 Netflix film ‘Army Of Thieves.’

 

Stream and download “What I Got” here:

Spotify

Apple Music

iTunes

deezer

Amazon music

YouTube

Tidal

 

/// Pre-save ‘The Legend of Goldkimono’ album here.

 

‘THE LEGEND OF GOLDKIMONO’ 2022 NL ALBUM TOUR

April 28 Rotown Rotterdam

April 29 Paradiso Amsterdam – Extra Show

April 30 Paradiso Amsterdam – SOLD OUT

May 5 Bevrijdingsfestival Nijmegen

July 5 Simplon Groningen / Simplon Groningen

August 5 Paradox Tilburg

/// Tickets available here.

Design Exists Everywhere with Selfi

Celeste Arendse creates clothing that delves into so many aspects of the human experience – least not the name of her brand, SELFI, which found its name a bit before the rise of the term “selfie” in its used understanding today through social media. Rather than an egoic driven act between one and their front-facing camera (although we do love a good angle!) SELFI underpins the essence of Celeste’s work; an inquiry into the expression of the self, and how this conscious phenomena of identification finds continual and expansive roots in all we do, and all we touch – and who we are. It’s a personal letter that Celeste began to write a decade ago – deciding finally in 2012 to pursue her own brand, post-corporate career dips and obtaining her degree in fashion and technology at the Cape Peninsula University of Technology.

On this foray into building a label, Celeste says in our conversation “I needed to create something with my own hands. I trained for that, and learned a lot working after I graduated, but by 2012 I was looking to channel everything towards a vision I had for womenswear in South Africa. I wasn’t finding much of what I wanted to wear, or see my friends wearing. I think any creative or designer will tell you there is a certain frustration in seeing so much inspiration everywhere – and not being able to transform those referential moments into a body of work testament to that flow of creative energy from observing, internalizing and then creating.” SELFI pieces are known for being structural and durable – a beautiful balance between aesthetic and functional considerations. Having styled with some of Celeste’s pieces before, I can attest to the pure joy in working with fabric that is weighted to hold its intended silhouette; a feat of pattern-making and construction. SELFI is well placed in the wardrobe of a woman who considers design in all aspects of her life; devoted to a life of beauty and connection. Celeste says this is somehow the point of what she is conveying, “I started out designing for a quite conservative South African landscape in regards to fashion. We take more risks now, but in the beginning I realised I had to slowly introduce nuanced aspects into the collections. This is why ceramics and sculpture have been so instrumental for my process – like taking a clay pot, for example, and building a wild sleeve shape. I took forms that I loved in my life, and put them to a drafted pattern. This opened up a whole new way to relate to womenswear both locally and globally.”

Celeste is regarded as a pioneer of sustainable thinking in fashion in South Africa, although this was somewhat accidental, “I’ll be honest, SELFI did not begin with those considerations in mind. The conversation was still very hushed around ethics and the environment in South Africa, but then I began to sell to a more global audience – and it became clear that concerns around fabrics like polyester would compromise the way SELFI was received. Turning to working with fabrics like linen and rayon blends changed everything – the garments became biodegradable, and it was really enlightening because I never wanted to make clothes that couldn’t return to the earth somehow. I don’t think things should be made to last forever; the nature of existence is this dance between creation and destruction, and to think of my clothes resisting that natural cycle seemed crazy. So SELFI evolved into a label that is deeply concerned with the ecological and social implications of fashion; it’s now a part of who we are.” The authenticity that is breathed into the evolution of SELFI is as natural as Celeste is in sharing her journey; and speaks volumes against this idea that a brand or business needs to be a perfected idea before it is brought into being. I think this is where a lot of reluctance comes in with creative ideas; rather than the view that as one grows, thus their brand / project / work will too.

A crucial part of SELFI is their social responsibility work – in many ways, this is more important for Celeste than the environmental factors. While the latter is certainly accounted for and shown in the sustainability manifesto and fabric-library on their website, Celeste’s community work with various NGOs goes to the root of perhaps why we disrespect the environment in the first place; because there is disrespect towards each other. Recently, her AW22 collection “Return to Womanhood” focused on the feminine experience. The collection campaign included two women from St Anne’s Home; a safe haven for mothers and children experiencing gender-based violence. Syd and Zandi, who share their story as part of the collections, move towards visibility for the whole spectrum of being a woman – the trials, and the tribulations of finding sanctuary in community and sisterhood even in the face of reprehensible circumstances. In this way, SELFI really does speak to a wide spectrum of the human experience through design – and considers the reality women face in this world, and in this country. Celeste says, “Making beautiful things is only nourished alongside the stories that occur during the creation process. Working with St Anne’s, I meet the most incredible women. Their stories are so important to tell, and if I can do that in some way, then I know my purpose is being fulfilled. This collection is about women transforming even after the most terrible experiences. I don’t think we should live in a world where women are bound to being “strong” in the face of abuse – but the reality is, we do – and to focus and celebrate that strength is a pathway to healing. I want SELFI to represent women like Syd and Zandi, who deserve to revel in their own beauty and womanhood as a source of power.”

Written by: Holly Bell Beaton

Singer, Songwriter and Content Producer KhiweG, Releases Her Second Single “Buya”

Singer, songwriter and content producer KhiweG, releases her second single “Buya”; a Nguni phrase meaning “Come Back”.

KhiweG is a South African Afro-Centric artist (afro soul, jazz, dance, tech) from Gqeberha. Alongside pursuing her music career, she studied Food Science & Technology studies in Cape Town. She is also the Co-Founder and CEO of the record label, Amber Zeal Productions – an independent record label created by Malakhiwe Grootboomn (KhiweG) with business partner Mihlali Jaji. The label’s purpose from inception was to provide a safe haven for female artists to create their music at the highest quality and pace as fellow male artists. Amber Zeal Productions is a woman-centred label, and have partnered up with 2 Non-Profit Organisations, namely MENstruation Foundation and O Grace Land, who align with the mission of creating more equal and dignified opportunities for women holistically.

KhiweG’s sound is a mix of playful and pensive, while her composition style and vocal delivery stem from her history in choral music in the Eastern Cape Youth Choir. The finite attention to detail in the musicality and the showcasing of raw soulfulness with an up-tempo, and modern spin, is how her sound entices listeners. KhiweG has been nurturing her talent through her YouTube channel (KweenKhiwe), where she embraces her Xhosa heritage the most through song. She takes her viewers through a different layer of her artistic side, as she sings Xhosa Folk Songs & AmaGwijo (South African war cries).

‘Buya’ is written and sang in her native tongue of isiXhosa. The song leads the listener through a lonesome yet hopeful journey of a broken heart. This is where Khiwe’s penmanship expresses how that broken, lonely heart still pleads for their loved one to just “Come Back” and make them feel whole again.

 

Listen and stream ‘Buya’:

Spotify

Apple Music

For more KhiweG head to her Linktree

/// Photorgaphy by Mpumelelo Nyambi: IG @mpumibless

Now Now Just Now proudly Announces the Release of ‘Forget the Things You’ve Said’ by Holograph

Record label Now Now Just Now proudly announces the release of ‘Forget the Things You’ve Said’ by Holograph.

“‘Forget the Things You’ve Said’ finds Holograph in a more contemplative mood. Trading in the jagged edges and brooding of previous releases for a more wistful sound on their latest single. This latest track waltz’s through its 3/4 time signature much like the narrator appears to gliding through the tableaus and interactions in her life. It’s lush, it’s moving and it’s ready for the ears of the world.” – Now Now Just Now

Warren Fisher began Holograph in 2015 and 6 years later the band is complete, consisting of Ines Soutschka (Julia Robert), Calvin Siderfin (Dangerfields), Desmond Kannameyer (Runway Nuns) and Bergen Nielson (Bye Beneco). During the 2020 lockdown, Fisher created over 20 tracks with his housemates and friends Kannemeyer and Soutschka, “defying booze bans and curfews to write a collection of demos”. Sinderfin joined towards the end of 2020 and the band hit the rehearsal rooms, producing their first two singles “From Within” and “Hollow Mountain”. In 2021, Holograph added Nielson on drums rounding out the band and completing their sound ensemble.

 

Stream and listen to Holograph’s fifth single ‘Forget the Things You Said’:

Spotify

Apple Music

Deezer

Band Camp

 

Spiritualism as African Performance Art with Yonela Makoba

My first interviewee for CEC, Yonela Makoba, is setting the local art scene ablaze. As a combination of text and recorded voice notes with faint classical music playing in her background, I managed to unveil the several layers of complexity which character Makoba, unveiling the purest artistic polymath which I have encountered in a while. Within this conversational chain of audio and text, she mentions her existential dread whenever quizzed with questions such as “who are you?” and “what you do?”.

Oscillating and intertwining between multiple disciplines purely out of necessity to honour her ideas at hand, Makoba describes her most recent artistic endeavour, a group show BODYLAND: A Site for Contemplation as high octane – an initiation into understanding what lies beneath, what has been hidden and what is evident in plain sight. Alongside fellow artists, Baz Bailey, Fundiswa Douw, Sisonke Papu, Wezile Hermans, the exhibition and performances were the outcome of a year-long residency –  nurtured by Athi Patra Ruga and curated by  Anelisa Mangcu. This is art as it was intended; shared together and offered to us, the audience, as varying threads of a shared artistic story. I can’t begin to describe how intuitive, composed, connected and present Makoba is – speaking so poignantly and profoundly on dense subjects such as mourning and directly pouring out raw honest emotion and transferring it into unique catalogues of art.

It’s so inspiring to hear such a talented young artist teach us all how to create art from within – and not from a conceited source of ego; how to honour ourselves and the ones which have allowed our path to fruition to exist. Her contribution to BODYLAND also included collaborative artworks with her grandmothers. “When the long night is done, when the morning star comes, we will walk with our shadows – in peace.” One of her poems reads. I had the honour and privilege of virtually engaging Makoba in order to delve deeper into her mythical universe, understand more about her inner world as an artist, the intersection of multiple disciplines and mediums within her work, and so much more.

Would you mind introducing yourself and including a short description of what you do? 

Hi Odwa, ndingu Yonela Makoba, iNgwekazi ezalwa nguJola waseMthatha. I am a daughter, sister, friend, plant mama and artist, currently based in Cape Town. I am a multidisciplinary artist, even though I am still grappling with what that definition even means, so essentially I’m currently redefining its meaning for myself. I am a performance artist, I use photography, I use my body, printmaking and sculpture. I use all of these mediums in order to convey thoughts, ideas and feelings.

 

I feel like your creative skill set is so diverse, yet nuanced and very intentional at the same time – could you talk us through the different creative disciplines you operate within?

I work with photography, performance art, sculpture, mixed media and more recently, abstraction and printmaking. I feel as though I am led to these different mediums, starting off in photography (because I was a stylist). I fell in love with the medium, its extensiveness and what you could actually do with it but I also knew that I wanted to explore different mediums too. I then pursued performance art, using my body as a vessel of self-expression and learning the language of my body. As for venturing into printmaking, initially advised by my mentor to do so, I felt as if I needed to put my body to task, as well as obtain scale in order to accurately represent the Amathole region, which was a key source of inspiration for my most recent print titled “uyafihla mhlaba” in collaboration with South Atlantic Press, which was part of their booth at this year’s Investec Art Fair.

 

You recently exhibited ‘Bodyland – a site for contemplation’ in Cape Town (curated by Anelisa Mangcu) – how was this experience for you?

The experience was really transformative and really regenerative. I felt as though we weren’t alone in everything we did, it was as if we all were there as physical representatives of our people and where we come from. I was honoured to be showing my hard work in the same room as people I respect, to see what came from all the things we spoke about in Hogsback. It was really special to be seeing each other after so long with the work. The work that brought us together. Personally, I was also grateful to be able to share the work which my grandmothers inspired me to make. To honour them with my body – my work has become a ritual in the place of lost/forgotten rituals. To meditate on the situation I found myself in late last year, to mourn and release myself from that.

 

What are some of the favourite exhibitions which you’ve been a part of?

In no particular order of occurrence, my favourite exhibitions are the first exhibitions I have ever been a part of, a group show at an independent space called ‘Studio One’ in 2017. I’ve come such a long way in terms of developing from that person – but I still honour that person. My second favourite was ‘Poropompompom’, another independent group exhibition at The Cosmopolitan in Joburg. Now that show was more than a show to me as I found my people and it was so special being there with them to play and do whatever we wanted with our spaces. It was cute as hell. The third was my first solo exhibition; Kwantlandlolo with Orms (Cape Town) in 2020, and I cannot even put into words how special this was to me. I was so in awe of that moment – “umangaliso” [which loosely means “miracle” or “wonders” in isiXhosa]. My mother was also present, which meant a lot to me.

 

What are some of the root components which form the basis of the work which you do? For example, I see a lot of family and culture within your work – according to you, what else?

It’s really a lot of things – from how plants and other lifeforms grow and metamorphosis in-between different seasons, my different worlds (inner, outer and historical) and how they interact with my body and soul, the process of dying and rebirth, and so much more. It is so vast – anything which really encompasses the process of being.

 

As a contemporary Black femme artist, how has it been for you navigating the South African art scene? Do you feel supported?

I’m struggling to answer this question because I don’t know if I’ve been consciously navigating the art scene. I have honestly been growing from one thing to the other; I don’t know if this makes any sense. I think I have been really blessed in my journey, at every stage there are people who have held my heart, affirmed and guided me through things. The one thing I know is that I have been found by people already working, if not physically, mentally or spiritually, so I’ve been ready (even though I don’t always think so). I’ve always felt supported.

Is there any short bit of advice which you could impart to young Black femme artists also looking to make a name for themselves within the local art scene?

Find out what you like – figuring that out is extremely important because it acts as the breeding ground for you to trust yourself. Your intuition is never wrong. You have everything you need and whatever you don’t have, will be gifted to you, one way or the other – so trust it.

 

 What are some of the things you are looking forward to in 2022?

I look forward to living, working, playing, enjoying and balancing all of this out. I look forward to growing into myself and growing my practice, touching new mediums, reading more books, breathing full regenerative breaths and learning how to sustain these. I’m looking forward to it a lot.

/// Black and white images were taken by Sihle Sogaula – IG: @sogaula 

Written by: Odwa Zamane

South African Singer-Songwriter Serati Releases ‘Don’t Let the Sun’

South African singer-songwriter Serati releases her single ‘Don’t Let the Sun.’

Serati is an afro folk/soul singer-songwriter, poet, stage performer, cultural activist, and model from Johannesburg. Her sound is always evolving in a mix of her influences and interests; storytelling acoustic guitar-based folk music, to the diverse musical styles found in the African continent. As a writer and poet, Serati’s lyrical content strongly invites her audience to deeply listen to the themes she explores, predominantly love, self-love and the human condition. Having lived in three continents (the US, UK and Africa) and constant travel, she continues to draw inspiration.

Serati is a founding member of transnational, all-woman, political art, music collective Basadi Ba Mintsu; Tswana and Shangana for ‘Roots Women’. The members use the metaphor of the elements and cycles of nature as a symbol of female fertility and creation. They blend their diverse musical and cultural origins with their shared African ancestry. Basadi Ba Mintsu seeks to merge their diverse cultural, artistic and linguistic backgrounds through poetry, music, and dance, to pay homage to their Black African and Afro-Diasporic women who have come before them.

In March 2021, Serati joined the feminist collective, Makwayela Para Todes, directed by Mozambican singer and cultural activist, Lenna Bahule. This was presented as an online performance at Centro-cultural Franco Mocambicano. The word “Makwayela” came from the word ‘choir’, aptly named for the group’s music/dance genre of multiple voices performed. In response to this genre mostly sung by men, Makwayela started in the 80s and is used to express social, civic and political issues. The collective’s interpretation of this style is to unite voices to speak about our place as inhabitants of the planet, their bodies as women, the feminine place, free transit as a right, geographically and gender identification wise.

Serati dedicates this song to her late grandmother, “The spirit of my grandmother lives in it, the passing of whom inspired the message of this song which is: do not hold onto your anger towards someone, that very person may be your help in the last hour.”

 

Listen to Serati ft.  251Afrika ‘Don’t Let the Sun’ on:

Apple Music

Spotify

iTunes Store

deezer

Amazon music

YouTube

Soundcloud

Tidal

Boom Play