BOYDE.

That’s the name which is seemingly on everyone’s lips in our fashion industry at the moment. Fresh from debuting their collection–‘Deterritorialization AW25’–at the prestigious New York Fashion Week, and with personal accolades such as GQ’s Best Dressed Young Creative 2024 also recently streaming in, Samkelo exhibits no signs of slowing down anytime soon.

So what exactly is the story of Samkelo and the eponymous Johannesburg-based contemporary luxury clothing brand which is BOYDE? During our virtual conversation–I felt my understanding of this brand’s vision & mission transcend into a state of heightened awareness and sensitivity. I attribute this not only to Samkelo’s eloquence and well-researched approach, but also to humanity which exists within their core DNA.

Something I picked up during our engaging conversation is that he treats each and every collection like some form of Academic study. Having been naturally inspired and gravitating towards African architecture, the discovery of Deterritorialization came about. Samkelo explains:

“Basically the colonisers are the ones who were dressed in suits–stylish–and they influenced South Africans at the time. In order for the locals to be recognised as well, they had to dress in full tailored suits, coats, etc. And also, this influenced the style change in Sophiatown.”

I liken Samkelo’s latest work with Deterritorialization to the genesis of pre-and post-Apartheid South Africa–along with its core ideations surrounding segregation, separation & colonisation. I draw parallels between such political commentary meshed with clothing when I view BOYDE’s designs and this is further complemented by the amounts of dedicated research which Samkelo’s team churns into the Art direction, set design and production. Interestingly enough, Deterritorialization was shot on location of the first-ever Parliament in South Africa–in Pretoria in Paul Kruger’s former office.

Zooming back into Samkelo’s backstory, after successfully obtaining his undergraduate and postgraduate degrees from Tshwane University of Technology (TUT), he ventured head-first into the fashion space–with a journey seemingly more fortunate than most. Citing his early inspirations growing up as “people-watching old grandpas who were effortlessly stylish”–I feel as though this development within his upbringing has proven paramount to the heights he has elevated the brand. For example, looking at the Deterritorialization AW25 lookbook, I could easily draw parallels between this aforementioned Grandpa aesthetic and looks such as the wool latte brown double breasted classic fit tailored suit with white classic Egyptian cotton oxford shirt, or even the wool oversized tweed storm flap trench coat, paired with our wool tailored tweed classic pants.

In my journalistic opinion–Samkelo has somewhat mastered the Art of the Perfect Cut. The tailoring on his latest collection indicates exceptional patternmaking abilities. Many may not know this but even the great late Alexander McQueen started off as an exceptional tailor who understudied on Savile Row–the historic centre of British menswear tailoring. This played such a crucial-yet-understated part in his eventual success as an incredible couturier and one of the greatest luxury fashion designers ever. So as I mention this, I think of Samkelo and how he innately manages to capture the essence of “The Man’s Silhouette” through BOYDE–a sartorial New Age luxury brand which values and emphasises African aesthetics. As a self-professed “Multidisciplinary creative who is a Fashion designer by profession”, Samkelo manages to hone in on his personal fashion taste and aesthetic and earnestly apply specific codes of dress into BOYDE. It feels like a privilege to be privy to some of his most recent personal achievements too–like how his dainty & elegant tailored two-piece suits managed to land him this year’s prestigious award of GQ’s Best Dressed Young Creative 2024. Asking him about how he feels about the award, Samkelo mentions:

“When I do my work I don’t necessarily do it in order to receive awards or accolades. I already know what I am capable of. I’m also really chilled about it, but with the nomination, and winning – it still meant alot to me. The recognition and the urge to work harder when you see your work recognised.”

As we fast-forward to present-day BOYDE, it’s incredibly evident that the future is brighter than ever. From some of Samkelo’s earliest accomplishments, such as winning the SAFW Menswear Scouting Competition a few years back, to now having conquered a showroom at New York Fashion Week–he continues to maintain his cool and calm demeanour about the meteoric rise of BOYDE. Albeit countless social media taglines telling the tale of how Samkelo Boyde Took New York, this young designer remains fixated on the work which is a true testament to their hardworking nature. So what’s next for BOYDE you may be thinking? Closing off, I asked Samkelo the exact same thing and he told me:

“To break into the Global market with South African luxury design–and to stand for Africa globally.”

Written by: Odwa Zamane

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