The ethnographically poetic approach of Thebe Magugu knows no bounds. To initiate each move of his brand with incredible effect has become Magugu’s signature; all that Thebe and his team touch turns to gold (and ochre). For the anticipated launch of the label’s website, Thebe Magugu is introducing the second edition of his ‘Heritage Dress’ collection; a stunning collaboration with illustrator Phatu Nembilwi and his long-time art director Chloe Andrea Welgemoed. The first collection was a profound articulation of eight tribes in South Africa into a vision of African sartorial consciousness; the latest collection has brought in a ninth culture, described by Magugu as a response to feedback on the first collection, now showing ‘Ndbele’ as an icon along with Basotho, Zulu, Swazi, Vhavenda, Vatsonga, Bapedi, Tswana, Xhosa culture. 

Vatsonga Heritage Dress.

The thematic concerns of volume 2 of ‘Heritage Dresses’ are portraits of mother and child, and the sacred role of the mother in a Southern African context. Magugu explained to British Vogue, “Conceptually, the imagery is modelled around this idea of women in Africa as totem poles, and I think of my own family – like many women on the continent – who have to carry and balance so many things, physically and metaphorically while looking incredibly regal and chic.” In the familiar vision of African women carrying objects on their heads, the campaign has been another synergistic by Thebe Magugu and Chloe Andrea Welgemoed in deepening the brand’s visual language. Shot by photographer Tatenda Chidora; the images feature Zandile Tshabalala, Pearl Thusi, Lindi Mazibuko, Bee Diamondhead, Syntiche Kabuya, Lita Miti-Qamata, Nadia Nakai, Reneilwe Lebea, Anak Akol, described by Thebe on the official IG teaser for the collection as, “For the muses  I invited women who have been a personal inspiration to me and are also leaders in their respective fields, across music, film, law, fashion, art and politics. Strength, as you will see in the artistic portraits that support this project, is a critical component of this project and the women here have shown it in such a sophisticated, powerfully feminine and graceful manner.”

Bapedi Heritage Dress.

In addition to the release of the dresses, the brand “will release short essays written by Dr M.E Chauke [Dept. Of Health Studies, UNISA], Prof. J.D Mokoena [Dept. Nursing Sciences SMHSU] and Prof. M.C Matlakala [Dept. Of Health Studies, UNISA] explaining each culture’s folkloric childbearing rituals and beliefs, written exclusively for the capsule.” We cannot think of a more poignant manner in which to weave culture, tradition and spirit into the artform of fashion design.

The collection campaign is exclusively released by British Vogue, with whom Thebe Magugu continues to forge a relationship with in bringing South African design sensibilities outward from the country.

All images by Tatenda Chidora.

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