South Africa’s retail industry is difficult to pin down— in a globalised world, our burgeoning retail industry faces pressing international competition and internal erosion of our own manufacturing capacity, coupled with many other complex factors. This is a topic that we covered in South Africa’s manufacturing legacy for Interlude Chapter 26 in 2024, where I spoke to various CMT owners and alumni of South Africa’s local trade, writing that “in looking at any industrial mechanism, we are always in essence looking at a single thing: the historical struggle of labour. The question of human labour is political, economic and social – and as South Africa’s fashion industry continues to grapple with the influences of each of these stratas.” 

It is easy to fall into a state of disarray when we are situated in a context that is always shifting and never feels truly certain. So, when I came across Vuyo Mjoli, I knew that she was an industry expert that simply had to join Interlude. Vuyo is a seasoned retail specialist and former fashion buyer, with an instinct and insight that is wildly wise and poignant, which she shares with her TikTok audience—in a continual dialogue around her thoughts and findings with her followers. Vuyo’s work speaks to the power of content creation grounded in analysis, and her work serves as an incredible resource for anyone who wants to tap into the proverbial nuts and bolts of fashion and retail in South Africa. 

Vuyo’s career spans roles at major players like Edcon, Woolworths, and Polo South Africa, as well as her current position in the burgeoning e-commerce space, and her perspective and journey demonstrates firsthand how South Africa’s retail sector has transformed and where it’s heading; Vuyo has grown up in retail, and alongside its changing and reassembling expression.

Imagery by Charlota Blunarova, via Unsplash

“I studied fashion at LISOF back when it was still called LISOF, before it became STADIO,” Vuyo shares on her foray into the industry, “initially, my goal was to become a fashion designer, but as I progressed through the course, my interests began to shift.” LISOF (now STADIO) remains renowned for its comprehensive curriculum that covers the creative, technical, and business aspects of the fashion industry — and I have often pointed to the lack of fashion education in this country that expands beyond simply the designer pathway. As Vuyo notes, “people often think being in fashion only means becoming a designer, but there are so many other avenues—production, retail buying, fashion journalism, trend forecasting, and more. While I was deeply passionate about designing, I quickly realised I didn’t enjoy sewing at all! By the time I was in my final year and working part-time in retail as a sales assistant, I began to see the appeal of becoming a buyer, so I applied for Edcon’s Management Development Program (MDP) after graduation.”

Edcon, then a retail giant and a dominant force in South African fashion, became a pivotal chapter in Vuyo’s career. “Edcon, at the time, was an iconic retail powerhouse—arguably the largest clothing retailer in the Southern Hemisphere. Their buying program was incredible, offering exposure to both local and international suppliers,” she recalls. As a trainee buyer in the formalwear department, Vuyo gained invaluable insight into the intricate workings of the industry. “Back then, South Africa still had suiting suppliers and coat specialists manufacturing locally, which is rare today. It was sad to witness many of those factories close over time and the loss of significant job opportunities,” she says.

These experiences, coupled with her role in international supply chains, laid a solid foundation for Vuyo to explore many different retail spaces, each with their own approach and distinct dynamics. “After two years as a trainee, I decided to branch out,” she says, leading her to join Polo South Africa. At Polo, Vuyo gained exposure to a new facet of retail: wholesale operations. “Polo SA is not affiliated with Ralph Lauren but is instead inspired by it,” she explains. “What stood out to me at Polo was its emphasis on quality and its pride as a family-owned business,” with Vuyo noting that her work involved building ranges for diverse clients, including retail customers, agents, and retail partners. 

“From Polo, I returned to corporate retail as a buyer for the Studio W range at Woolworths,” Vuyo continues, and that “I found myself back in the formalwear category—something I’d thought I left behind! Woolworths stood out as a retailer with world-class standards. Their design and quality processes are unmatched in South Africa. For example, Woolworths has its own colour lab containing their range of colour swatches that they develop themselves, rather than relying on standard Pantone shades, which people don’t really know about.”

Shopping by Arina Krasnikova, via Pexels

Vuyo’s time at Woolworths offered her a deeper appreciation for the intersecting priorities of design, quality, and consumer education. “Working there taught me the importance of educating consumers about value,” she says. Woolworths, she tells me, invests heavily in areas such as sustainability and innovation, which often come with higher costs that aren’t always visible to the customer. “Sustainable fabrics, for instance, are significantly more expensive. While they’re better for the environment, they can make products seem overpriced compared to fast-fashion retailers like Shein,” Vuyo notes, emphasising the critical role of storytelling in helping consumers understand the bigger picture behind price points— especially in our South African context, in which its feels easy to lay blame at our local retailers for price points that don’t align with our understanding of their products and processes. 

Vuyo’s next move took her back to Johannesburg, where she joined Edgars as a specialist buyer during a particularly turbulent time for the company. “This was when Edcon was undergoing a turnaround strategy and eventually entered business rescue,” she recalls. Despite the challenges, Vuyo found herself drawn to the company’s renewed focus on private label brands. “I strongly believe in private labels because they support local manufacturing and offer better profit margins. They create a win-win situation for retailers and the local economy,” she explains.

From Edgars, Vuyo transitioned to Jet, where she was introduced to the world of discount retail—a new terrain that left a myth-dispelling impression on her. “Jet actually prioritises quality even within the discount market, which was impressive and I don’t think people really know,” she shares. “For example, many of their t-shirts were 100% cotton and locally manufactured—proof that you can offer good quality at an affordable price if you negotiate effectively and produce at scale.”

Currently, Vuyo has taken her expertise into the realm of e-commerce, where she works as a site merchandising manager. This role represents a natural progression of her skills in buying and retail strategy, now applied in the digital space. I ask Vuyo what she has witnessed around the growth of e-commerce in the South African market, seemingly accelerated by the COVID-19 pandemic. “E-commerce has grown significantly, with retailers seeing a much larger percentage of sales coming from online platforms,” she notes. One of the standout advantages of e-commerce, according to Vuyo, is agility. “For example, if it’s raining today, I can immediately update the homepage to promote raincoats, whereas a physical store would take days to adjust displays and signage,” she explains. This responsiveness allows e-commerce to capitalise on trends and consumer behavior almost instantly, a capability traditional retail cannot match. “E-commerce also leverages data to predict trends and adjust strategies in real time. If I notice a specific product is being searched frequently, I can highlight it online and push it through promotions almost instantly,” Vuyo adds, “That said, brick-and-mortar stores are far from obsolete. Physical stores offer an experience—customers can touch, feel, and try on products, which is something online shopping can’t replicate. I think the future lies in omnichannel strategies, combining the strengths of both online and in-store retail to offer customers the best of both worlds.”

E-commerce has fundamentally reshaped the retail landscape, equally as a platform for selling and as a logistical innovation. Today, physical stores are evolving into mini distribution centers (DCs) as Vuyo points out, to bridge the operational gap for businesses that may not have the capacity to manage large-scale warehouses. This model brings significant advantages, particularly in terms of delivery speed. “Instead of waiting 5–6 days for a product, customers can now receive it within 1–2 days as items are shipped directly from the nearest store,” Vuyo explains, and she reflects on her experience with Me&B, a South African brand that has grown from being e-commerce-only to establishing physical stores. “I ordered on a Thursday, and my product was ready for pickup by Friday morning. That’s an amazing turn-around time.”

Vuyo highlights convenience as the driving force behind the fastest-growing sector of e-commerce. “Platforms like Zulzi and Checkers Sixty60 are dominating the on-demand delivery space, providing consumers with groceries and essentials at their fingertips,” she says. However, she points out a noticeable gap in on-demand fashion. “Superbalist had the potential to explore this niche, but its sale by Takealot shifted the company’s focus. Interestingly, Takealot appears to be quietly building its own fashion offerings, including handbags and apparel. Once they refine this, I suspect they’ll eventually move into convenience fashion,” Vuyo predicts, but that “returns and sizing complexities make it far more intricate. Unlike groceries, where the margin of error is minimal, fashion requires a more robust system to handle fit, style, and customer satisfaction.”

The South African e-commerce market is evolving rapidly, bolstered by the entry of global players like Amazon. “Amazon’s arrival highlights the untapped potential in our market. I think they’re leveraging strategies like lightning-fast delivery without additional costs and unbeatable deals to attract customers,” Vuyo explains. “What’s remarkable is their ability to absorb initial margin losses for market entry, which gives them a competitive edge. Their focus on building a loyal audience now sets the stage for their eventual market dominance.” Vuyo notes that Amazon’s approach could inspire local players to rethink their strategies, particularly around delivery times and customer experience, saying that, “how can retailers create a seamless, reliable experience at every touchpoint that makes customers return again and again?”

Imagery by Clem Onojeghuo, via Unsplash

Another notable contributor for Vuyo is the rise of the resale and pre-owned luxury market. Platforms like Yaga have carved out a niche in this space, fueled by growing consumer interest in sustainability. “Yaga are doing extremely well and resale platforms thrive on the demand for sustainable fashion amidst the industry’s overproduction crisis,” Vuyo observes. “They provide high-value returns with minimal investment, often operating on consignment. This model, combined with South Africa’s increasing focus on sustainability, looks like an aspect of the sector that will continue to grow.”

Vuyo is particularly passionate about the untapped potential of the rural e-commerce market, which she believes e-commerce stands out as an incredible solution to an inaccessibility problem, “startups are beginning to address the neglected rural economy, providing on-demand services to areas that have historically been underserved,” she explains, “instead of traveling long distances to purchase essentials, rural consumers can now order via mobile. This saves time and resources, and opens up significant revenue opportunities for businesses willing to invest in these regions. I think businesses that tap into this market stand to benefit while driving economic inclusion.”

The boom of e-commerce has revolutionised retail, bringing both opportunities and tensions, particularly for South African retailers contending with global giants like SHEIN. Platforms such as SHEIN thrive on their unparalleled data-driven operations. As Vuyo explains, “SHEIN is fundamentally a tech and data company. Products are actually just a vehicle for their business model and their vertically integrated supply chain enables rapid trend analysis, efficient production, and minimal waste—at a speed that completely outmatches us.”

This efficiency starkly contrasts with the challenges local retailers face. “South African retailers finalise their summer collections during the current summer,” Vuyo adds, highlighting how long lead times and fragmented supply chains prevent local players from responding swiftly to the rapidly shifting trends dictated by social media and platforms like TikTok. To counter this, initiatives such as the Clothing, Textile, Leather, and Footwear Master Plan are currently driving collaborations to rebuild local vertical supply chains and reduce lead times from months to weeks. While promising, these efforts struggle to compete with the agility and scale of SHEIN’s model, which bypasses traditional intermediaries to deliver trending items almost instantly.

One step toward leveling the playing field is the recently introduced VAT hike on low-value parcels. This measure aims to reduce the price gap between international and local retailers by curbing the dominance of cheaper imported goods. Vuyo believes this change could encourage greater investment in local production, though she emphasises the need for South African retailers to adopt data-driven decision-making and Quick Response (QR) models. “Testing small batches, scaling successful products, and ensuring trend-aligned offerings are essential to staying competitive,” she says.

However, SHEIN’s approach also affects consumer behavior. “The focus on quantity and affordability often erodes the ability to discern quality,” Vuyo explains. This shift puts additional pressure on local retailers, who must balance affordability with quality while navigating high-margin expectations from management. This often results in safer, less innovative product selections, creating a vicious cycle in competing with fast fashion’s allure, “traditional six-month lead times are no longer viable as suppliers increasingly sell directly to consumers through platforms like SHEIN. So what can retailers do to leverage a competitive advantage for its local audience? Vuyo shares that, “creativity is the competitive edge for local retailers. More brands need to be working with artists, fashion designers, and other creatives to produce unique collections as a way for retailers to differentiate themselves while connecting with their audience. People want to be part of a movement, and our local creative scene is the best way to build local context and loyalty. Community is no longer about a rewards card or superficial engagement. It’s taking the time to create authentic, meaningful relationships with your audience,” she explains. She points to brands like Thebe Magugu, Artclub and Friends, and Selfi, which have earned customer loyalty through deep authenticity.

For example, workshops and events that merge product education with engagement create lasting impressions. “Good Good Good’s T-shirt-making workshop last year showcased the craftsmanship and intention behind their products and invited their community to participate in real time. I thought it was such a smart move.” Vuyo shares. Similarly, Thebe Magugu’s sample sales have become community events, offering loyal supporters exclusive access to unique pieces. “The label’s recent sample sale required customers to complete a quiz application— pointing to the brand’s commitment to maintaining a respectful relationship between the brand and its audience,” she says.

As e-commerce and traditional retail continue to converge, Vuyo envisions a hybrid model that moves away from rigid seasonal structures. “Retailers need to think dynamically, grouping products functionally rather than by season,” she advises. This shift reflects the global consumer’s fluid shopping habits. “Today, someone in a small South African town can shop online from Stockholm and receive their items within days. Retailers must adapt to this interconnected reality. Historically, South African retailers excelled at tailoring their offerings to regional needs. High-end malls like Sandton and Gateway catered to affluent urban consumers, while smaller towns relied on South African brands due to limited options. E-commerce has leveled the playing field. Social media exposed rural consumers to global brands like SHEIN, Zara, and H&M. It was a wake-up call for local retailers when they saw shoppers in rural areas sporting international labels,” Vuyo remarks.

I could easily spend hours dissecting retail and its many complexities with Vuyo and I believe her work, sharing these conversations online for South Africans, is a crucial part of the solution in educating us as consumers about our local retail landscape; it helps us understand the tensions and dynamics that drive us to either seek international quick fixes or choose to support local businesses. Here’s to seeing our local retail space and South African economy can expand — across rural and urban communities, and at financial accessibility points for all. As for us as consumers? The ever-pressing question of quality versus quantity remains the contending question that we will each have to make peace with. 

Written by: Holly Beaton

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