“It was a real tug of war between art and fashion in my early career. I was always bouncing between the two. Visual arts was my first love that introduced to me this whole creative world,” notes Sakhile, as he explains that his career as an artist took off, “My visual arts career got quite serious. I was doing shows, locally and internationally, and even though it was my main focus — I’d make myself an outfit for a showing opening. I was kind of in the middle of these two spaces, where people who knew my art didn’t realise my background in fashion — and vice versa.”
The dichotomy of Sakhile’s Jozi studio expressed his dualism as a creative – an art studio, split down the middle, with canvas on one side and a sewing machine on the other. It was in this space that Sakhile returned to fashion, though he never really had a desire to start a ‘brand’ – perhaps this is due to his artistic instincts, an in-born reluctance to commodify his creativity. In today’s landscape, artists are required to be their own kind of brand – but the idea of formalising his creative expression into an entity of its own, that needed to operate as a brand (marketing and selling, logistics and production), was never the goal – and it was only when Sakhile unlocked the storytelling potential of fashion as a medium, did his concerns fall away. SASH South Africa was born. Sakhile reminisces, “SASH was lightly started in 2016. I had no real interest yet in starting a clothing brand, but I had this deep love of fashion and making clothes. Every time I’d leave, it would always find me. Then in 2017, I got an opportunity to showcase at Mercedes-Benz SA Fashion Week — and I realised maybe this was worth pursuing, that there might be something in this?”
“My first collection in 2017 for fashion week was really exciting. I’d always been interested in the concept of installations instead of the traditional runway show. SASH was always this avenue through which I felt I could tell South African stories through clothing. So, my whole show was this scene of a taxi rank. When I pitched it, they thought it was crazy. But they let me do it, if I could organise it myself. We brought a taxi out onto the runway. It was wild.” shares Sakhile, and then, “I dropped ‘Bantu Space Odyssey’ which was inspired by a song, made by a friend of mine. That collection explored sci-fi and afro-futurism, through this fictional character ‘Bantu’ and a future in which Africa is the leading global power in the world, and he’s travelled to space to fight this warlord who is threatening the peace on earth. I treat each collection as its own story entirely —and I find my design process flows if I have a narrative or world built around the collection, so the garments are part of the story. I never feel confined to have all the collections be connected to each other rather than that each of them expresses a story or narrative that I’m interested in at that moment in time.”
In 2018 Sakhile was awarded at Design Indaba, and headed to Paris for shows at a gallery and to participate in AKAA ‘Also Known As Africa’ Art & Design Fair – but fashion was beckoning, and having his heart split into two became notable, “I think 2021 was the year that I was able to reconcile the fact that I wanted to do just one thing, between fashion and art. I was so drained and I knew I wanted to step back from art. I had never really given SASH the kind of chance that I knew it deserved; part of which was my full attention. I will always revisit art throughout my life, whereas fashion is a young man’s game, you know?”
I ask Sakhile what his initial thought was behind focusing on SASH – what was the motivation? To which he says, “we’re in the city, we observe things and consume things constantly — and I always want to figure out how we can also challenge things, and take ownership of our stories and experiences in a creative way, and I wanted to know how fashion could achieve this. Since I’ve been back, I’ve been focused on the strategy and business aspect of the brand. I take longer in my process to work on collections because I’m so research focused, and finding ways to do textile development.”
Recent Comments