Killing Counterculture: How Algorithms and Big Tech Threaten Creative Diversity

Looking at the city centres, symptoms of monoculture are everywhere. Straight men don mullets, gorp-core fanatics wear their Solomon’s on the streets instead of hiking trails, and paperback books are just for decoration. As Soutis notes on the smashburger trend as a symbol of conformity, “Our culture is flattening. From our style to our smarts, our consciousness to our creativity, we have grown accustomed to applauding replication and expecting iteration.Over and over again, online trends are mirrored offline, and suddenly everybody is obsessed with Sambas, protein, and Sabrina Carpenter simultaneously. Evidently, my irritation with Spotify’s increasingly generic algorithm is only symptomatic of a broader frustration with the slow commodification of countercultural movements into brand opportunities, ideas into aesthetics, and meaning into memes.  You have to ask, why do all of our streaming sites rotate the same pop-adjacent mush? And when did ‘cool’ become so cookie-cutter?

The arts have, notoriously, signalled belonging and socio-political alignment. Similarly, counterculture was once about using our clothing, music, and language as a stylistic practice of resistance. Two decades ago, those who felt that traditional politics was insufficient to represent the masses, let alone the disenfranchised, would dissent dominant ideologies by practising creative agency as a political right. This is why the Sex Pistols took over the UK, chanting anti-elitism and punk; why the writers for Drum Magazine pioneered cultural criticism during South Africa’s heightened racial violence and media censorship laws; why the Blues became the sound of the Civil Rights Movement, a world over in Mississippi. 

Imagery courtesy of Pexels, by Camilla Gari
Imagery courtesy of Pexels, by Giona Mason

But, as it always does, digitalisation’s influence now reconstitutes culture so that it can be easily performed, without ever having to engage its origins or meaning. Through the mediated lens, countercultural practices feel more like an outfit to put on, rather than a praxis to live by. You can become Punk with just a simple ‘How To’ video and some black eyeliner, or Indie Sleaze with band t-shirts and ripped stockings. You don’t need to know why you love Aphex Twin. Or why you suddenly have to wear a pair of black loafers with white socks and a silk scarf around your head, you just need to know that it’s in. The songs and symbols and fashion that were once used to project personality, subjectivity, and motivation for a cause now fall short of symbolic meaning beyond ‘cool’ and ‘not cool’, ‘online’ and ‘offline’. And so, instead of countercultural diversity, we’re being subjected to sameness.

But, it isn’t entirely our fault. As the media landscape’s digitalisation continues to shift cultural consumption, so too does it reconfigure cultural creation and visibility. Social media is a key enabler of this shift. The more revenue-focused our platforms become, and the more attention-maximising their mechanisms, the more capable they are of turning the niche into the normative. Between sponsored posts, paid advertisements, influencer content and censorship mandates, it’s rare to stumble on authentic creativity and unfiltered passion projects. 

Top that off with Recommendation Learning systems replacing Editors, and most of us are destined to live in an invariable echo chamber of cash-cow content. As Bea notes in her Substack article, The Death of the Public Intellectual, “The people who do shape culture—the ones who influence what we wear, how we speak, and even how we think—are no longer intellectuals, but influencers… it says something significant about what we value today. We no longer look to those who challenge us intellectually, we look to those who offer us a perfectly packaged lifestyle.” 

The systematic capture of culture by a few large companies and some severely addictive (yet dissatisfying) social media mechanics is enough to make any creative sad. It’s also enough to explain why, on the surface, we seem to severely lack countercultural diversity in fashion, film, art and music. After all, how can radical creativity gain any traction in a context where non-human code curates our feeds, and Big Studios only want to fund money-grabbing sequels? (I’m looking at you, Practical Magic 2, Devil Wears Prada 2, and Freakier Friday. No wonder Matty from The Studio calls the job of Studio Head a “meat grinder” in an office that feels more like “a tomb” than a “temple of cinema”). 

Most might blame our generation for being too dumb and overstimulated to produce work of worth any longer. But rather than blaming the people who, god forbid, own phones and use devices, we can acknowledge the bigger political problem at its core: that somewhere between Big Tech and Big Corporate, culture is dissolving into digitalised content, advertising,  Amazon and IP theft.

As Cory Doctorow so plainly puts it in an interview titled How Big Tech Captured Culture: “Five publishers, four Studios, three labels, two ad-tech companies, and one company that controls all the ebooks and all the audiobooks in the world.” He’s talking about: HarperCollins, Simon & Schuster, Macmillan, Hachette, Penguin Random House, Universal Music Group, Sony Music Entertainment, Warner Music Group, formerly EMI (now largely integrated into Universal and Warner), Apple, Microsoft and Amazon. And then of course, there are the individual businessmen who control cultural flows through tech, including: Elon Musk (x), Mark Zuckerberg (Meta), Bezos (Amazon) and Ek (Spotify). This handful of people control the bulk of the world’s copyright, and thus the bulk of its music, movies and messaging platforms. 

Imagery courtesy of Pexels, photography by Kamaji Ogino
Imagery courtesy of Pexels, photography by Bleach Carte

Doctorow calls this monopsony or ‘chokepoint capitalism’, a system in which a few key players become overpowered. He says, “These middlemen grow powerful enough to bend markets into hourglass shapes, with audiences at one end, masses of creators at the other, and themselves operating as a chokepoint in the middle. Since everyone has to go through them, they’re able to control the terms on which creative goods and services are exchanged – and extract more than their fair share of value.” Looking at the facts, no wonder everything sounds and looks the same. Big players make the calls while artists and creatives struggle to keep their heads above water. If cultural stagnation happens at the hands of commerce, we’re in some danger. Its warning signs are aestheticisation, performativity, and a confusion between ‘effort’ and ‘cringe’ – all of which are everywhere. Caught in these mass trend cycles that dictate our collective style, it’s no surprise that the Labubu looms large, larger than a sense of cultural meaning or value, diversity or surprise.

But – and this is a big but – if you’re reading this, you probably already know that countercultural work does exist despite digitalisation and labour insecurity. Right now, you’re supporting both me and CEC, reading content curated by and for Africans – in the current landscape, that choice means something. Where you could have doomscrolled, instead you engaged. To answer FKA Twigs, who asked “Where are all the thinkers?”: they’re out there. But like me, they’re probably trapped beneath the weight of nine-to-fives, hustling to keep up with the cost of living and make ends meet, to create out of meaning, not just commerce. But when culture isn’t compensated fairly, and influencers are idealised over intellectuals, we have no choice but to busy ourselves with some corporate gigs now and then. As a comedian joked recently at a Film Club screening, “All the great filmmakers are just waiting for that one chicken commercial.” 

Being a creator in this economy is, in some ways, an inherently political act, something driven by vocational awe rather than profit motives (although we do still like to pay our bills, don’t be fooled). And as much as we can blame poor anti-competition laws, low wages for artists, and rapid corporatisation of Entertainment and Tech (which we really really can), we can also focus on what is working: collaboration and creativity despite it all. When everything starts to blend into itself, and all feels doomed, think of the local bands who put on free shows inside city fringes, the poetry collectives that convene without much more than a poster and a love for spoken word. Better yet, flip through the pages of indie press publications, or chat to the independent bookstore clerks. Buy an EP from an unknown, collect merch at the bar, stay loyal to the illustrator making screen-printed tees. Read MixMag roundups and New Music Fridays instead of relying on Your Discovery Weekly. Subscribe to a substack instead of taking Gemini roundups and TikTok hottakes as gospel. Wear the outfit because it makes you feel something, not because you have to. Exercise your creative agency. Call for the ethical remuneration of artists. Remind yourself that a diverse culture does exist, and its survival stands in opposition to everything bad and scary about the world right now. 

Because that is, at its most essential core, what counterculture does. It defines its political alignment, its moral compass, by its engagements outside the ambit of pure commerce. Person to person, rather than B2B, artist-led communities are always better equipped to translate and trade their works among friends. So, if we can commit to bypassing the overpowered middlemen that sell us stuff on unfair bases, then perhaps we can reclaim creative engagement. And for our own sake, we must significantly reduce time spent on the apps, and reprioritise a commitment to the belief in art’s ability to move us. Because if the current media landscape only rewards speed and virality, then the best we can do is prioritise slowness and depth, assume intricacy and critique dominant ideology. 

Written by Drew Haller

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Threading Care: Reflecting on Mohair and Twyg’s African Textile Talks

In a world increasingly defined by fast fashion and fleeting trends, mohair moves at its own pace—quiet, enduring, and profoundly rooted in the land. At the recent African Textile Talks event, hosted by Twyg, as conversations unfolded about care, culture and conscious consumption, one question lingered with me after the discussions ended: How do we share the story of mohair with more people?

Perhaps the answer lies not in statistics or marketing slogans, but in simply tracing its journey—through the hands of devoted farmers, across the dry landscapes of the Eastern Cape and into the wardrobes of designers and consumers who are rethinking luxury and local resources.

South Africa, the world’s leading producer of mohair, holds a fiber that is not only beautifully tactile, but also rich in meaning. It’s a story that begins with the angora goat, but stretches far beyond—to traditions passed down through generations, to communities sustained by the land and to a textile ecosystem built on resilience.

In this piece, we explore that ecosystem through insights shared by industry leaders Lauren Moore (Mohair South Africa), Pierre van der Vyver (House of Fibre), and Jonker Venter (OVK), and reflections from the African Textile Talks and Twyg founder Jackie May, it offers a closer look at how mohair is cultivated, celebrated, and carried—one strand at a time—into a more thoughtful future.

Imagery courtesy of Mohair South Africa

African Textile Talks Photography by The Dollie House. Installation Creative Direction by Tandekile Mkize and stage backdrop art by Leila Walters.

Twyg’s African Textile Talks held its third iteration at The V&A Watershed over the week of 28 July 2025. Reflecting on the event, Jackie May, the founder of Twyg, had this to share on the purpose and impact of African Textile Talks, “We had quite a strong theme on care… being more careful in how we think about textiles, fibers, and fashion. Fashion and textiles are deeply cultural… It’s not just the end product, it’s a whole system you’re buying — a whole ecosystem.” 

Mohair is one such textile which is enduring in quality based on an entire ecosystem. As the world’s leading producer of this luxurious natural fiber, South Africa—together with Lesotho—accounts for nearly 75% of global mohair production. But beyond numbers lies a narrative rich with dedication, craftsmanship, and a deep connection to the land and animals that make it all possible.

The success of today’s mohair industry is rooted in the hard work and vision of previous generations. These pioneers didn’t just develop the industry in South Africa— as Jonker Venter says “They went to Australia, they went to Texas in America, they went to New Zealand and they have established their industry there. And we must say thank you.”

This legacy continues through the unique bond between South Africa and Lesotho, whose farmers contribute significantly to the global supply. Lesotho’s mohair, known for its exceptional length and luster, is often used in high-end products like tweed and velour, and is cultivated under a system that has remained remarkably stable even as global production has declined.

So, what makes mohair so unique? Mohair is renowned for its luster, strength, and smoothness—qualities that enhance other fibers when blended. “They’ve tried to replicate mohair artificially, but they couldn’t achieve it,” explains Jonker. Its natural sheen and wrinkle resistance make it a favorite for fashion houses and sustainable textile brands worldwide.

Pierre van der Vyver shared a simple but powerful example: “I’ve got a mohair jacket on. It was in a suitcase all the way from PE to here. I just took it out and put it on—there’s not a wrinkle in it.” When viewed under a microscope, mohair resembles artificial fiber in its fineness and uniformity—yet it remains 100% natural, biodegradable, and renewable.

As Jackie so aptly puts it, the ecosystem and context in which a product lives is vital, “A drought is going to affect the fiber. A shock is going to affect the fiber. The soil is going to affect the fiber. It’s so interesting to keep bringing everything right back to the origin and the land.” The same sentiment could be shared for South Africa’s natural fibre counterpart, wool.

Modern mohair farming in South Africa blends tradition with technology; from laparoscopic insemination to genetic tracking via barcode ear tags, farmers are investing heavily in improving herd quality and fiber performance. “You can scan an animal and instantly access its fleece weight, fineness, and lineage—from birth to today,” notes Pierre.

Farmers now shampoo and condition goats before shearing, and dip them strategically to ensure optimal fiber quality. These changes have markedly improved fleece consistency and ease of processing. Yet, beneath the tech is honest dedication. During kidding season, when cold fronts sweep through farms, it’s not uncommon to find newborn goat kids being warmed in farmhouse kitchens. “That’s the type of dedication a mohair farmer has to his goats,” shared Pierre.

From blockchain to life-cycle assessments, this push toward transparency is helping brands form deeper partnerships with the mohair supply chain, especially through organisations like Mohair South Africa. But as Lauren Moore emphasises, data alone isn’t enough. “We need to deepen our stories of provenance, to support science with the soul of what makes South African mohair so special.” At every stage of the value chain—from farm to spinning mill—there’s an unmatched level of skill, knowledge, and pride. It’s a craftsmanship that leaves an impression on everyone who visits the industry.

African Textile Talks Photography by The Dollie House. Installation Creative Direction by Tandekile Mkize and stage backdrop art by Leila Walters.

Imagery courtesy of Mohair South Africa

In a world hungry for ethically sourced, high-performance natural fibers, mohair stands out—and we’re leading the way. With its resilient farmers, well-established infrastructure, and ongoing commitment to improvement, the country is set to become a geographic sourcing hub not just for mohair, but for a range of sustainable and luxury raw materials. “We’re not just producing fiber,” says Lauren Moore, “We’re building a legacy—one strand at a time.”

This serves as a constant reminder that objects don’t live in insolation as they present themselves, there’s a whole web of information in that object, which should be appreciated and compensated for. It’s a product born not just from land. It sustains families, nurtures rural economies, and honors the animals whose well-being is central to the industry’s future. Its beauty is not only in its sheen, but in its honesty—in how it respects the earth, values people, and reflects a gentler way of doing business. 

I ask Jackie what consumers often miss in the communication of sustainability and sustainable consumption, to which she replied, “We have to design our solutions for our own context — a country that’s terribly unequal. Donated clothes, done in the right way, can offer people opportunities to start microbusinesses and earn a living.” 

When mohair reaches a boutique or runway, such as with local designers MmusoMaxwell, Judith Atelier or Lukhanyo Mdingi, one can appreciate the long story behind this diamond fibre, but mohair, it’s more than a luxurious textile. Mohair is a symbol of integrity and intention, a reminder that what we wear can connect us to something deeply rooted, authentically made and thoughtfully shared.

 

Find out more about Twyg

Find out more about Mohair South Africa here

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Vans Announces Grammy Winner, SZA, as Artistic Director

Vans has announced a multi-year creative partnership with one of today’s most influential music and style leaders, SZA. As Vans’ newest Artistic Director, SZA will work closely with the brand to reimagine upcoming campaigns and co-create exclusive product collections that fuse her unique vision with the brand’s creative and youthful spirit.

“In Vans, I feel free” says SZA. “I’ve been wearing Knu Skools and other styles for years, they’ve always had an ethos I connect with. As Artistic Director, my mission is to show that joy, community, creativity, and fashion are all still intersectional. That humanity, culture, and connection are still the access points. I’ve learned that bravery and curiosity are the cures for uncertainty, it’s a lifestyle and Vans champions that spirit. They stand where I stand, and I’m honored to invite a whole bunch of people to stand Off the Wall with us.

 

Photography courtesy of The Bread

The debut campaign is a dreamy ode to expressing vulnerability through self-reflection, art and style, spotlighting one of SZA’s favorite Vans footwear styles, the Knu Skool in Black/White. The campaign was directed and photographed by Sophie Jones and styled by Alejandra Hernandez and can be shopped at vans.com 

The Vans Knu Skool, originally designed in 1997, reimagined the classic Old Skool™ for a new generation in the late ‘90’s. Influenced by skateboarding design, the Knu Skool features modern restyling of the original silhouette and includes a puffed-up tongue and 3D Sidestripe, as well as chunky, oversized laces. 

View the Vans and SZA brand anthem here

ABOUT SZA:

SZA, the five-time Grammy Award-winning singer and songwriter, has achieved global prominence with her distinctive musical style and emotionally raw, introspective lyrics. Her major label debut album, Ctrl, was a commercial and critical success, earning five Grammy nominations. RIAA-certified 5x Platinum, Ctrl features the Diamond-certified hit “Love Galore” and several multi-platinum songs.  SZA’s sophomore album, SOS, along with its expanded version SOS Deluxe: LANA, both debuted at No. 1 on the Billboard 200 and spent thirteen non-consecutive weeks at the top. SOS is currently 8x Platinum and holds a record-breaking streak on the Top R&B Albums chart, remaining at No. 1 for 117 weeks and counting. Across all platforms, SZA has amassed over 70 billion streams worldwide.

SZA’s career is marked by significant accolades, including Academy Award and Golden Globe Award nominations. She has secured an impressive 77 wins, including a fifth Grammy Award this year for “Saturn” (Best R&B Song), eight Billboard Music Awards, eight BET Awards, four MTV Video Music Awards, and three American Music Awards. Her recent co-headlining Grand National Tour with Kendrick Lamar stands as the most successful duo tour in history. Beyond her musical achievements, SZA made her big-screen debut in the 2025 comedy film One of Them Days, which topped the box office at No. 1. SZA continues to exemplify fearless creativity, a testament to her immense popularity and record-shattering achievements.

About Vans

Vans®, a VF Corporation (NYSE: VFC) brand, is the leading skateboarding and original action sports footwear, apparel, and accessories brand. Vans® authentic collections are sold in more than 100 countries through a network of subsidiaries, distributors, and international offices. Vans® has more than 2,000 retail locations globally including owned, concession and partnership doors. The Vans® brand inspires and empowers everyone to live “Off the Wall” embodying the youthful spirit of freedom, non-conformity, and relentless drive to push culture across action sports, music, art and design.

Press release courtesy of The Bread

 

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Land of Echo release their debut album ‘Almost Music’

‘Almost Music’, the debut album from Land of Echo, is a deeply personal celebration of return — to the city, to community, and to sound. Released via Wah Wah 45s, this record marks a heartfelt re-entry into a post-pandemic and politically confused world, with music shaped by reflection, hope, and the timeless pulse of the dancefloor. Blending altered disco, downtempo soul, and experimental electronics, Almost Music invites listeners into an emotive soundscape where every beat and bassline carries weight. It’s a sonic journey through shared struggles and future-facing optimism.

At the heart of Land of Echo is Rob Mac, producer and longtime figure in UK underground music. From running the legendary Scratch hip-hop nights in the ’90s to releasing under aliases like Speeka (on Wah Wah 45s), Gum Drop, An Explore, and Jumbonics, Rob returns here to the soulful edges of dance music — armed with vintage gear, fresh vision, and a deep connection to his collaborators. Lucy Wilkins, violinist and synth explorer, brings cinematic sweep and subtle textures to the record. Known for her work with Massive Attack, Radiohead and Roxy Music, Lucy is Rob’s most consistent creative partner. Her contribution is both foundational and exploratory.

On vocals, two powerful voices lead the charge: Kathy Diamond, from Sheffield brings soul pedigree and bold, unmistakable songwriting. She’s collaborated with Maurice Fulton and been remixed by Morgan Geist, Hercules & The Love Affair, and many more. Ayana Homma, from Tokyo, brings a global perspective — raised in Japan and Singapore, trained in jazz in California, and now embedded in London’s scene via the Jazzy Sport collective. She also lends her voice to the Tokyo Riddim Band and Sound Anthropology, delivering fearless and expressive performances in both Japanese and English. Keeping it in the family, Angus Mac contributes bass parts to the record, and Ollie Macdonald-Oulds delivers the album’s striking artwork.

Listen to ‘Almost Music’ here 

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff 

Thakzin Drops A New EP ‘Bozza Mthathe’

Trailblazing South African producer Thakzin continues to reshape the future of African electronic music with the release of his bold new two-track EP Bozza Mthathe, his first release of 2025.

Widely recognized as the originator and driving force behind the 3Step movement—a cutting-edge fusion of Amapiano, Afro House, and Deep House—Thakzin once again pushes sonic boundaries. His music is as much about physical rhythm as it is about spiritual resonance.

The title track, Bozza Mthathe, is an hypnotic, groove-driven anthem with a gritty, ancestral feel—speaking to the primal yet refined essence of dance. A consistent highlight in Thakzin’s live sets over the past four months, the track has quickly found its way into the sets of icons such as Black Coffee, Oscar Mbo, Mörda, and Dlala Thukzin. It’s a sound designed to move the body and stir the spirit.

Recorded In Cape Town spontaneously after a gig, the track aims at stirring the dancefloor while displaying a sense of elevation & depth as only he can do. Already a favourite of international tastemakers as Benji B, Laurent Garnier & Kid Fonque.

Thakzin has emerged as one of South Africa’s most visionary and genre-defying electronic music producers, credited with pioneering the 3Step sound since the viral success of his 2022 single The Magnificent Dance. Deeply rooted in African musical traditions and driven by a belief in the spiritual and healing power of rhythm, his sonic identity blends ancestral heritage with forward-thinking electronic innovation.

Backed by icons like Black Coffee, Shimza, and Themba, and championed by global tastemakers such as Keinemusik, Louie Vega, and Pete Tong, Thakzin has gained international acclaim through acclaimed originals (Don’t Let Me See, Possessed) and game-changing remixes (Oscar Mbo’s Yes God, DJ Kent’s Horns In The Sun). As co-producer of Zakes Bantwini’s Mama Thula—the anthem of South Africa’s 2024 Rugby World Cup triumph—he further solidified his place as a key cultural voice.

From commanding major festival stages across Africa to debuting globally in Paris, London, Amsterdam, Berlin, and beyond, Thakzin continues to uplift and connect people through music, with his debut album poised to mark the next milestone in his unique journey. Adding to the accolades, Thakzin was also recently announced as one of two Spotify Africa’s RADAR picks, turning the spotlight toward the next wave of African music innovators as part of their ongoing commitment to discovering and amplifying emerging voices across Africa.

Listen to ‘Bozza Mthathe’ here 

Connect with Thakzin:
Instagram: Instagram
Facebook: Facebook
X: X
YouTube: Youtube

Press release courtesy of Sheila Afari PR

Yarni releases ‘Temperature’s Rising’ / ‘Silent City’ / ‘SWALK’

Sheffield multi-instrumentalist and producer Yarni presents the first collection of singles from his forthcoming album “Anemoia,” showcasing three distinct facets of the project’s ambitious sonic palette. This initial sampler features the disco-soul of “Temperature’s Rising” (ft. Nathaniel Short), the hypnotic instrumental jazz-funk of “Silent City,” and the soul-stirring “Sealed With A Loving Kiss” (ft. Scarlett Fae).

As a purely self-taught multi-instrumentalist, Yarni (aka Benjamin Harris) continues to draw praise from influential voices, with Gilles Peterson describing his work as “lovely,” Luke Una calling it “a beautiful gift to the world,” and huge support from BBC Radio 6’s Huey Morgan & Deb Grant who declared “Pigna” as “chef’s kiss delicious.” His previous release “Boro” landed on Spotify’s Class of 2021 for Fresh Finds UK and Ireland.

The sampler opens with “Temperature’s Rising,” where Nathaniel Short’s soulful vocals meet Yarni’s first-ever string quartet arrangement, creating a perfect blend of classic disco and modern production. “Silent City,” an instrumental piece inspired by Malta’s ancient city of Mdina, featuring James Atashroo’s evocative trumpet work against a backdrop of psychedelic funk. The collection closes with “Sealed With A Loving Kiss”, evolving from a simple two-chord idea first recorded 24 years ago into a sweeping epic that channels both Fleetwood Mac’s timeless songcraft and LCD Soundsystem’s building intensity.

This trio of tracks offers the first comprehensive glimpse into “Anemoia’s” exploration of nostalgia and time, demonstrating Yarni’s ability to craft authentic, innovative music across multiple genres while maintaining a coherent artistic vision. From string-laden disco to epic soul and jazz-funk instrumentals, each track reveals a new facet of this ambitious project.

Temperature’s Rising is released 16th July 2025

S.W.A.L.K lands August 13th 2025

Silent City arrives with the Anemoia album – full release 3rd October 2025

Listen to the new releases here

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

Tandekile Mkize Is South Africa’s Meta Stylist with His Visionary Approach To Fashion Storytelling

Tandekile Mkize’s approach is truly meta; hence his Instagram moniker, the meta stylist. With fashion as his chosen medium, he moves fluidly between roles from stylist, to editor (most notably at Twyg, where he has been instrumental in advancing our understanding of sustainable fashion, particularly within the African context), curator, and fashion director. To be “meta” is to operate with an awareness of the bigger picture; to examine the frameworks, codes, and narratives that shape the thing itself.  

In Tandekile’s work, this means interrogating fashion as a cultural text and identity, and expressing this innate understanding through a broadly-scope practice; one steeped in sartorial consciousness – from the fabrics Tandekile favours to the stories that he elevates, and one only has to pass their eye across one of his works, to understand the depth of intention and cultural literacy embedded into every choice that he has made. 

Lately, Tandekile has been busy; in between all he does, he curated Threads of Renewal, an accompanying group show to Twyg and Imiloa Collective’s Africa Textile Talks. It seems his  love affair with fabrication is deeply rooted, and as he’ll tell me later, someone recently referred to him as a “man of the cloth.” Stylists and editors are often praised for the big picture — the composition of the entire thing — but it would seem Tandekile is motivated in this moment by the very granular threads that bear it all together. 

Styling by Tandekile Mkize, photographed by Andile Phewa

Styling by Tandekile Mkize, photographed by Dan Carter

In this way, Tandekile is, yes, concerned with the image and composition, but more importantly; he is devoted to the stories and histories embedded within fibre. After all, without fibre; fashion styling would be somewhat bare. I can’t think of a better return to essence than this, for someone whose creative expression and career present a loom of entwined ways to understand fashion beyond mere commerciality.

His cousin played a pivotal role in introducing him to the world of fashion, as reminisce, “my cousin would switch on Fashion TV and I’d just be around. It really opened my eyes to this world. I became so invested in who the models were and what shows were happening. He’d get annoyed because every time a model appeared, I’d always mention their name. I was that annoying kid! So it all grew from there and then I went off and figured things out myself.” From that iconic channel, FTV, with striking models darting down runways as pulsating music blared, many fashion kids had their first real taste of the industry’s energy and spectacle. For Tandekile, it was equally the glamour and a drive to uncover the stories behind what he was witnessing that sparked his enduring fascination with fashion.

“I’d say my path started when I was at UCT for about a year but didn’t last much longer. I had asked myself, ‘What’s next? What do I actually want to do?’ I wasn’t focused or invested in school at all at that time.” After leaving university, Tandekile had to chart a new course for himself. Fashion had always been a calling, but practical realities led him to jobs at call centres. With the money he earned, he began buying clothes and cameras, connecting with friends through social media and collaborating on editorial concepts.

Initially, Tandekile styled and modeled himself in projects inspired by his personal transitions. Over time, he began to negotiate an ensuing,  broader perspective and around 2018, as photography gained momentum and analogue photography burst on the scene, Tandekile grew fascinated by the medium, sharing that “Friends would shoot me, and I became fascinated by the camera. I got my own and started shooting my own work, even exhibiting some pieces. Having photography skills has been really useful, as a stylist and fashion director, and understanding image composition is important. Photography demands total commitment though, so I’ve never been serious about photography — it’s something I’ve parked for now.”

On his styling philosophy, Tandekile notes, “Starting from a personal place with real pieces has shaped the stories I want to tell. It’s important to layer fashion stories with deeper meaning. I’ve come to understand that when you embed layers of yourself in these stories, they carry more emotional resonance. Fashion is also a way to archive your own story, and the stories of others.” For Tandekile, this meta approach to styling has naturally evolved into curatorial work, and where styling often remains confined to ephemeral digital imagery, Tandekile’s role as a curator brings fashion into three-dimensional space — a physical presence that revitalises the relationship between maker, wearer, and audience. Ultimately, this roots fashion in community and dialogue and in this way, I’m increasingly convinced that Tandekile embodies precisely what we mean when we say “a fashion storyteller.”

Tandekile is Twyg Magazine’s Fashion Director, a collaboration that began in 2020, sparked by a creative partnership with stylist and spiritual healer Noentla Khumalo during the heavy COVID-19 lockdowns. “When bans eased slightly, we felt frustrated but full of energy,” he recalls. “We needed an afternoon to come together and create an editorial called Shift in Flow about the period of transition we were in. Transitions are a recurring theme in my practice. That project reflected on the times, what it meant to be in fashion, and where fashion could potentially go.” 

Styling by Tandekile Mkize, photographed by Dan Carter

Styling by Tandekile Mkize, photographed by Dan Carter

This initial collaboration led to an ongoing relationship with Twyg, where Tandekile now works alongside Ky Boshoff and Jackie May as part of the Twyg Fashion team. Reflecting on his curatorial role and the broader scope of Twyg’s work, he explains, “Bringing together the ecosystem across the continent to discuss innovation and what’s happening has been inspiring and insightful. It’s important to make sure the message is carried across. We get to witness so many beautiful moments, like local designers collaborating with textile makers in Uganda to develop fabrics for their collections, as an example. This cross-cultural exchange of ideas is incredible. It localises the idea of pan-Africanism; borders dissolve and we can actually connect with one another.”

Beyond the collaborative spirit, Tandekile is deeply invested in the ongoing renaissance of African fashion, particularly the revival and preservation of indigenous craft practices. “I’m very excited about indigenous craft practices. With our work, there’s exposure to so much more. Many young designers are tapping into this, which is exciting,” he says. “The richness of African fashion means we’ll never run out of stories.” For Tandekile, this blend of tradition and innovation is central to Africa’s fashion future.

Reflecting on a recent exhibition he curated, Tandekile describes how it was about striking a balance; “It was important to represent both traditional techniques and contemporary expressions — looking at the past and how it can inform the future,” and he emphasises how African textile traditions use cloth as “a vessel for storytelling and cultural heritage,” a concept he wanted to convey while also “pushing it further and imagining new ways to tell stories through cloth.” 

Indigenous practices reveal that cloth has always been deeply intertwined with other senses — sound, taste, and ritual — in both ceremony and daily life. This multisensory understanding challenges our modern perception of fabric as merely practical wear, and extends the very act of weaving, a complex and ancient craft, as a remarkable achievement of human ingenuity and cultural expression. I’m still amazed at the thought of ancient human beings drawing the connective possibilities between plant fibres and the living world around them; and everything that has occurred in the way of fabrication since this moment.

Tandekile’s fascination similarly includes the spiritual and healing qualities of textiles, particularly as explored in the exhibition’s Cosmology of Materials section. Featuring works by Wacy Zacarias, Yemi Awosile, and Djamila De Souza, this segment examined the four elements as “material collaborators.” Tandekile notes how Wacy, a spiritual healer and textile practitioner, “understands plants and materials with healing properties and incorporates that into her textiles to give them healing and protective qualities.” This nurturing and protective aspect of what we wear, he says, proves that clothing is an intimate extension of self with profound cultural and cosmological significance.

I’ve caught Tandekile this week as he’s wrapped Threads of Renewal, alongside his showcase at Greatmore Studios. Amidst the recent launch of his role in FIELD BAR’s extraordinary campaign and the daily drum of life, Tandekile’s current creative focus is about slowing down and embracing depth over speed. As our conversation winds down, we fawn over Bubu Ogisi’s IAMISIGO debut at Copenhagen Fashion Week the night before — another etch, we agree, in the immense blossoming of Africa’s fashion renaissance. 

On his own creative journey, Tandekile shares, “I’ve gotten into weaving recently; it requires time and attention.” As a multi-hyphenate, this tactile, material exploration feels a natural consequence of Tandekile’s depth as a fashion storyteller; from eyes to hands. “Someone once asked me if I’m a ‘man of the cloth.’ That made me think. I wouldn’t necessarily describe myself as one yet, but there’s definitely curiosity there! Before I take that title on, I know I have a long way to go.” Lastly, Tandekile’s advice to aspiring creatives is simple; “Just do it. Even if you don’t end up where you thought, taking the leap and putting yourself out there is how you discover your path.”

Written by Holly Beaton

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In It Together: The DHL Stormers Unveil a New Identity

Cape Town, 13 August 2025 — The DHL Stormers have stepped boldly into a new era, unveiling a new brand identity. At the heart of the launch is a simple truth: rugby in South Africa isn’t just a game — it’s a cultural force that connects people, places and passions.

We attended the press launch this morning and one of the biggest takeaways, is that the refreshed emblem draws from the team’s heritage while signalling its future. The familiar hoops of the Stormers jersey wrap and interlock, forming a shape inspired by the curves of DHL Stadium. At the centre, a lightning bolt captures the team’s raw energy and the electric charge that they [the team and their supporters] bring to the city.

The ‘In It Together’ campaign reflects the Stormers’ mission to unite Cape Town’s diverse communities under one banner. It’s a statement that sports and culture, woven together, can create powerful connections. From the schools that produce world-class talent, to the fans whose passion fills the stands, to the local creatives who helped craft this rebrand — every voice is part of the story.

With Cape Town as both backdrop and heartbeat, the DHL Stormers aim to be more than a rugby club: they are positioning themselves as a premier sports entertainment brand that belongs to the city and its people. The new visual identity is a badge for everyone who believes in the team’s mission to Make Cape Town Smile.

This campaign was brought to life through a collaboration of some of Cape Town’s leading creative talent, including Duncan MacLennan (Sunny Futures), Chris Moore (Partners in Crime), Justin Gomes (Bananas Advertising), Anton Visser and Zayd Halim (Patriot Films), and Simon Ringrose (Music Producer).

The new Stormers identity is a celebration of heritage, a call for unity, and a reminder that when sport and culture meet, a city’s spirit can be unstoppable.

Reported by CEC

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The Moments Between Mending Broken Hearts: A New Dawn For Critically Acclaimed Singer-Songwriter Manana

A fellow scribe by the name of Langelihle Radebe once wrote, “Lord, when I say, “May Your Will Be Done” in my prayers, I never anticipate that your will would break my heart. I don’t say that in hopes that you will send more devastation my way” –  the weight of those sentiments sent shockwaves to my core. An emotional conflict endured in me where I wrestled with the acceptance of pain as part of life’s balancing act. 

How do we dress the wound around heartbreak in all its forms and charter the elusive path of healing? For Grammy-award-winning Songwriter, Singer, Producer and creative visionary Ndumisio Manana, affectionately known as Manana, the answer lies in introspection and a shift in perspective. The intertwining of the two is a key anchor embedded into his catalogue, which boasts EPs such as “In the beginning was the end” and “But could the moments in between”, which weave into each other as intimate chapters of a broad musical universe that confronts the nitty-gritty of shadow work. The philosophy behind Manana’s pen as a seasoned songwriter is to translate crippling vulnerability into relief, closure, optimism and resounding faith.

 

Photography by Arron Moos

 

Photography courtesy of Manana

 

Perhaps we can credit his articulation and conceptual brilliance to his extensive behind-the-scenes experience, having worked with renowned artists like Amanda Black, Ami Faku, Sauti Sol, Burna Boy, Shekhinah, Langa Mavuso, and Rowlene, to name a few. Being in these different creative hubs to birth songs that carry distinct messages has filtered a universal intentionality behind his work that has a laser focus on eliciting a sense of submission to feelings one would rather avoid and sparking a search for a healthy resolution to those feelings, as opposed to being poisoned by them. 

At a critical point of my personal path with rediscovery and rebuilding, I was introduced to his impeccable debut album “Our Broken Hearts Mend,” which can only be described as an ode to being present and accountable in choosing yourself and your happiness. Through songs like “Alone (I’m Tired),” “Never After,” “See What I See” and “Isililo soThando” Manana performs an ethereal open heart surgery, crafting not only the daunting but unclenching process of letting go, but the glory of allowing yourself to revel in the beauty of allowing yourself to love again and restoring your sense of worth. 

It is the beauty of quotes like “Let’s go dancing in some place we’ll never find again” from “A view with a beach outside (interlude)” that reminded me that beyond the walls of wailing, adventures are waiting to grace my memory in the greener pastures I am nurturing within. In turn, the experience sparked my curiosity to converse with Manana about songwriting, content culture and what lies ahead for his career.

For our readers who may not be familiar with you. Please introduce yourself and share more about your creative path. How was life growing up leading to your journey with music?

Manana: I go by Manana, which is my surname. I was born Ndumiso Manana in Mbabane, the capital of the eSwatini kingdom. My life began there in my early school years before I moved to the Drakensberg, where I attended the Drakensberg Boys Choir School.

I spent six years there, arriving when I was eight or nine years old. At the time, it wasn’t a conscious decision to pursue music, but looking back retrospectively, I would never turn away from music once that happened.

After that, I attended Cape Town at Hoerskool Stellenberg in Durbanville. Following matriculation, I studied jazz music and performance at the University of Cape Town, where I graduated and lived for a few years.

About eight years ago, I moved to Johannesburg and started working as a songwriter in the music industry. Initially, I was signed to a publisher who pushed and propelled my songwriting in terms of professionalism, proficiency, and confidence. From there, I developed enough confidence to start releasing my own music.

What strikes me most about your songwriting is the cultural textures it inhabits. What has your experience in songwriting camps with acclaimed artists and writing from a personal vantage point taught you about genre as a culture and language? 

Manana: We often hear that music is a universal language. My biggest takeaway is that melody and harmony are a language on their own. That’s been the most significant realisation from my experience.

I’ve been privileged enough to be in different rooms with artists from various parts of the world, and what I’ve realised is that melody and harmony are central to how songs are formulated, even for rap artists. The intention and precision of the lyric usually starts with melody and harmony, which most people don’t consider when thinking about a song, whether it’s rap or a song in Swahili, for example. 

Linguistically, many things about Nguni languages or African languages would naturally influence what a melody sounds like. Most people will write a melody in the language they think, which sounds like abstract thinking, but the influence of topline melody, lyric, and harmonic content is deeply intertwined. The relationship between these aspects is what makes a song what it is.

Watch “Never After [Live from the House Of: The Embassy]” here

Photography courtesy of Manana

 

Photography by Maishe Duke Motloutsi

“If We Move” made me ponder the lost art of living in the moment. Do you feel that content culture has engineered us to chase after unforgettable moments instead of surrendering to their spontaneity? 

Manana: Yes, absolutely. I talked to someone about this last week because I had a moment to leave and go to Durban a while ago. We got to this part where Durban was evergreen and beautiful, and as we’re driving, the conversation in the car was, “Hey, can we stop and grab a photo?”

Now, I’m fully anti-phone and anti-social media, so take this with a pinch of salt. But my first thought is always: when we see something extraordinary these days, we feel the purpose of the beauty we’re experiencing is to be shared instead of just being experienced. That’s a huge thing I’m trying to avoid, and I’m trying to get more people to avoid it too, especially as creatives.

Beauty for beauty’s sake is something we’re starting to lose because of content culture. Nature will curate something perfectly beautiful, and then you want to take it from that perfectly created moment. Instead of being like, “Wow, this is so beautiful,” and maybe sitting there for an hour appreciating the beauty meant for you in that moment, you’re already repurposing it. You’re already repurposing beauty.

Obviously, there’s a space for sharing, and there’s a reason we want to do that. But we must be aware that sometimes, just like in music, right? Sometimes I’ll write a song and feel like, “Oh, this is so nice, but this is for me.” Beauty for beauty’s sake is consumed by this desire to create a perfect, curated content piece out of what we’re experiencing every moment.

Why did you decide to make a deluxe edition with your debut album being such an enriched encounter? What are some of the stories you want to share through the deluxe?

Manana: So with the Deluxe, there are two things. First, I change my mind a lot of the time. The deluxe is slated to be released soon, but I’m also at a stage where we’re creating new music that’s coming out quite well. The songs are coming together rapidly, so we might release some of the songs we intended for the deluxe as a separate thing entirely.

To your point, the stories and journeys we tried to put in the album are perfect. But there are also some creatives I had the privilege to work with that I would have loved to release music with. That’s the hope with the deluxe, or whatever we release next.

The idea is to capture. I spent some time in Kenya with some artists I admire, so I want to release that music. Some extended versions of songs were too good to lose on the project. For example, “A view with the beach outside” is a song I wrote in full and had to fight tooth and nail to have on the project. The compromise was that we put it as an interlude, but there is a full version that people would appreciate. Same thing with “Time,” there’s a full version we want to get out there.

This aims to express the stories of the creators behind the project, honour them with the work they’ve put in, and then expand further on the stories that already exist in the album.

Thank you for joining us for this interview. Before you go, please share what you have in store soon. What’s next for Manana?

Manana: So like I said, I’ve been in the studio. To be honest with you, I thought I was only going to get back into the studio to start working on the next project in November, that was the plan. But things worked out, so I was itching to return in around February. So between now and December, we’ll release a lot of music.

Our band Seba Kaapstad with Sebastian Schuster, Zoë Modiga, and Philip Scheibel is coming out around the 8th of August. Then we will start the rollout for the next album in February. It will be action-packed, and I’m shooting for the stars as far as some artists I want to work with and feature on this next project.

Next year, we want to put together a one-man theatre show and take that to as many cities on the continent as possible, especially first. That’s what we’re planning for the near future. We’re also trying to get some vinyls together, and I’m trying to express myself through fashion and clothing, so that might also be something we see next year.

I say “might be” just because I don’t know exactly what the near future holds, but these are our hopes and dreams for the coming year.

 

Stream “Our Broken Hearts Mend” here

Connect with Manana on Instagram here 

Listen to Manana’s music here

 

Written by Cedric Dladla

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

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Princess of Amapiano, DJ and Producer Uncle Waffles is adidas South Africa’s Latest Superstar

adidas South Africa announced multi-platinum international DJ-producer Uncle Waffles as the latest partner to sign to their Lifestyle portfolio. To celebrate the partnership, she features in the global “Superstar: The Original” campaign joining a multi-generational cast including Samuel L. Jackson, Missy Elliott, JENNIE, Anthony Edwards, Mark Gonzales and GloRilla, to name a few.

“Superstar: The Original” brings together an unprecedented roster of cultural trailblazers who exemplify what it means to be an Original Icon. The newly released campaign with Uncle Waffles spotlights the groundbreaking artist rocking her superstars in a series of bold, black and white shots – an ode to the Superstar’s original colorway. 

Photography courtesy of Play Makers  

Uncle Waffles defines what it means to be an Original Icon through her authenticity and innovation. Dubbed the Princess of Amapiano, she has been monumental in bringing the South African genre to the mainstream. In 2023, Uncle Waffles made history as the first Amapiano DJ to play on a main stage at the world-renowned Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival. Her unique style of dancing and viral social media videos helped accelerate her music career, where she quickly established herself as an internationally acclaimed standout artist. With 6.2 million followers across platforms as of August 2025, Uncle Waffles has proven to be a global powerhouse. 

At the heart of adidas’ partnership with Uncle Waffles is the recognition of working with impactful icons that continue to shape music, fashion and culture not only locally, but on a global scale too.

Photography courtesy of Play Makers  

About adidas Originals

Inspired by the rich sporting heritage of adidas – one of the world’s leading sports brands and a global designer and developer of athletic footwear and apparel – adidas Originals is a lifestyle brand founded in 2001. With the adidas archive at its foundation, adidas Originals continues to evolve the brand’s legacy through its commitment to product innovation and its ability to filter the creativity and courage found on the courts and sporting arenas through the lens of contemporary youth culture. Marked by the iconic Trefoil logo that was first used in 1972 and championed by those that continue to shape and define creative culture, adidas Originals continues to lead the way as the pioneering sportswear brand for the street.

About Uncle Waffles
World-renowned DJ-producer Uncle Waffles is taking over the music scene by bringing the South African Amapiano genre to the forefront. She’s been making her rounds with international tours/performances and most recently performed at Coachella and Cannes in 2025. Despite being only 25 years old, Waffles has solidified her position in the industry in a way that hasn’t been done before. In 2024, she was nominated for a BET AWARD, nominated for a Headies Award and garnered nearly 3M followers on Instagram and over 3.3M followers on TikTok, and has amassed over 384K+ subscribers on YouTube. Since the beginning of her musical journey, she’s garnered major cosigns from top artists including Drake, Beyonce, Ciara, and more. 

 

Follow Uncle Waffles on Instagram here 

Press release courtesy of Play Makers   

 

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