It’s Not Just You, The Fashion Fatigue Is Real

It’s September, fashion’s biggest month with the carousel of shows, the flurry of debuts from new creative directors, the theatre that usually defines the calendar. Usually, I’d do some kind of round-up, or chart some exciting news and occurrences – and I promise, I am not even in a jaded place with fashion; it all just feels somewhat… lacklustre. 

Is it just me, or does it seem like nobody is really in the mood?

The state of the world aside, even fashion’s fantasy seems to have lost some of its spell. This is telling, given that fashion often shines brightest in moments of social difficulty. Historically, it has been at its strongest when society desperately needed something to pin its hopes to. Only a year ago, I wrote about the downturn in luxury fashion’s indomitable post-pandemic recovery, long overdue given the rising cost of living, and it seems this economic reality is catching up with Fashion (with a capital, industrial F). In its place, there are many cultural analyses to be made about how we’ve become untethered from our collective penchant for fantasy and as Brigitte Arndt declared in her recent Substack piece, “fashion is dead.” 

Borrowing Nietzsche’s infamous adage, she argues: “If we dare to borrow his framing, fashion – as a meaning system – is dead. Not clothes. Not making. Not the joy of getting dressed. What’s dead is the tacit agreement about what fashion means and how it should behave in culture and commerce. The late-industrial ritual – trend calendars, logo pageantry, sanctioned scarcity, disposable novelty – no longer persuades. We went on buying after the old gods of fashion stopped making sense, much the way Nietzsche warned: the edifice keeps operating for a while even after its foundations are gone. But the cracks are visible everywhere.” It’s a searingly brilliant use of Nietzsche as a diagnostic tool. Fashion, Brigitte suggests, has entered its “God is dead” moment and I couldn’t agree more and as Nietzsche reminds us, nihilism is never the end goal – but before we use it to propel ourselves forward to new systems value, we must acknowledge that seeming meaningless has us in its grip. 

Yohji Yamamoto SS98, via @yohjiarchive IG
“Prada Future Shock!” shot by Higashi Ishida for @spurmagazine, December 1998, via @prada.archive IG
September shows might be unfolding with their usual grandeur, but the familiar aura and zeal that usually enclothes these rituals are kind of opaque right now. Instead, we have more moments like Jaden Smith being appointed Christian Louboutin’s creative director for their men’s relaunch, engulfing feeds and inflaming people online who point to the continual barriers to entry for actual fashion students intending to become designers. 

As 1 Granary, the Central Saint Martins student magazine, satirised in their “Which creative director appointment are you according to your zodiac?” post, the absurdity of the churn is both boring and silly, at this point. Fashion as an institution has exhausted its own symbolic capital and the big houses seem hell-bent on regurgitating a carousel of creative directors in the hope of conjuring that elusive unicorn of commercial viability and growth, all under immensely hostile conditions. From relentless production calendars, to unrealistic expectations of instant cultural impact, and the pressure to generate content ecosystems. 

The result is a kind of industrial cannibalism, in which designers are chewed up and spat out before they can leave a trace, and the houses themselves trade long-term creative vision for short-term market spectacle. The major difference is, we are now a digitally-fluent and astute audience and our fatigue can be measured by data – we are owed better insights, better stories and it is our direct attention which keeps the dominating forces in fashion as the cultural overlords. 

In the South African context, much of this is already inaccessible to us; so the content fodder designed to keep a global audience interested is making less and less sense. We are bombarded with narratives and aesthetics that have little relevance to our local realities, yet still dictate the terms of taste, and as we build our own cultural and aesthetic narratives for the future; so too will this structurally inept industry continue to fail in its delivery. 

Here, one of my favourite minds and fashion theorists Rian Phin, has crucial thoughts to help us make sense of this all – especially since independent fashion is fighting its own battles in the wake of the SSENSE debacle (Rian is something of an oracle on avant-garden and indie fashion). Across YouTube, Instagram, TikTok, and Substack, Rian has become what I would consider one of the leading critics of fashion at a time when critique has been all but buried by paid partnerships. An incredible autodidact, her work has argued that the contemporary industry is sustained less by genuine cultural appetite than by financial engineering, and that the issues in fashion are structural and unavoidable. We have to remember this, each time that we get swept up by the promises of commercial fashion. 

Fashion, Rian suggests, has become an ‘asset class’ rather than a cultural force, its health measured in quarterly earnings rather than any kind of aesthetic or symbolic vitality. While I hate to employ nostalgia (for a time I was barely alive), the rise and fall of creative directors at major houses illustrates this truth. It just didn’t seem like this was happening in the 1990s, when Yohji Yamamoto could steadily cultivate his poetic, anti-fashion vision, or when Miuccia Prada was allowed the time to build an intellectual, ironic, deeply personal language that still defines her brand today. Back then, creative authorship was tethered to long arcs built on patience and respect for the creative process; today, it is collapsed into a handful of seasons before the next appointment is announced.

Jaden Smith x Christian Louboutin, via @c.syresmith IG
Norbert Schoerner (@dayfornightlab) PRADA ARCHIVE unseen scans and polaroids, via @prada.archive IG
That tension is visible everywhere this season. Take the news of SSENSE’s bankruptcy filing, as I mentioned. A mecca for independent designers and the loyal aesthetes who followed them, the Montreal-based platform was founded in 2003 by brothers Rami, Bassel and Firas Atallah, and has been a critical showcase for the avant-garde in global fashion. It brought designers like Marine Serre, Eckhaus Latta, and Craig Green to the fore, and offered something the conglomerates could never; curation and the thrill of encountering work outside the mainstream. It brought reading back  as a marketing-strategy, and revolutionised a specific application of infographic meme-culture for fashion marketing that has had widespread implications for digital aesthetics overall.

Now, in the wake of a hostile shareholder takeover and allegations that it has failed to pay its vendors – those same independent designers who relied on SSENSE to make ends meet – the platform has thrown the entire retail–e-commerce model into question. For many small brands, the promise of wholesale visibility has soured, and direct-to-consumer strategies are increasingly seen as the only sustainable way forward. That is a story for another day, though.

What matters here is that SSENSE’s collapse reveals how precarious those values, of authenticity and non-conformity, always were in a fashion economy that rewards scale above all else. If even SSENSE – the platform that has set so  much aesthetic and cultural weight for fashion in the digital era – cannot survive, what chance do the smaller spaces have? 

Meanwhile, the cultural surface has become cluttered with the rise and fall of “-cores.” This once-amusing way of naming niche aesthetics — cottagecore, gorpcore, balletcore – has metastasised into a cringe reminder that these “cores” are really surrogates for the death of subculture, flattened and accelerated by the internet. Here again, the churn reveals its own limits. When naming itself becomes a form of consumption, a label applied by corporations and brands to sell identity-led trends back to us, the whole system appears as a mirage.

So what does this mean for us, the audience? Well, it means that our power is both diffusive and decisive. Our collective relationship to fashion is changing and this shift could be the very thing that saves it. While I may be taking the temperature as an overview; there is always creativity and art being made, and cultural interventions that forgo being captured digitally but that are  so wildly significant. 

Studios brim with ideas all the time, and there are always new ideas to be pulled down from the collective ether. We are, of course, material girls in a material world. Fashion is happening in real life because we engage with it in our own personal spheres – and what remains is our attuned capacity to demand something more akin to our own expression of it. 

Personally, this is my own intellectual and physical curation of fashion whether locally, or through thrifting and collecting; and caring for what I already own. Creating projects, obsessing over moodboards, learning to engage with archives, making personal notes for my own nourishment and reading magazines, or  accumulating references that stretch far beyond ‘fashion’ with a capital F (this is crucial). These kinds of practices can de-commercialise our experience of fashion as some abstract, large entity looming over us. 

Instead we the people demand slower cycles, deeper storytelling, and clothes that carry meaning for us personally, and culture more broadly. At least, this is what is worth striving, creating and hoping for. Let’s see. 

Written by Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

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Nublu Dance Release a Collection of Remixes

Nublu Dance returns with a curated release collection that captures a moment in electronic music history. Originally issued as a single compilation in 2008, this document showcases the talent incubator that was Club Nublu during its 2000s Lower East Side era.

The collection features remixes and productions from artists who were integral to Nublu’s creative community—many of whom have since become defining voices in contemporary electronic music. What began as underground experimentation in a dimly lit basement club has evolved into a lasting testament to the power of artistic community and creative risk-taking.

 

Now receiving the deluxe treatment it has always deserved, Selections from the Nublu Dance Series is being reissued as three collector-focused digital 45s and a comprehensive EP throughout 2025. Physical 7″ singles will follow in November and December of 2025, with a limited-edition 12″ EP arriving at the end of January 2026. The final physical release of the full compilation on gatefold double LP in March 2026.

These vinyl releases represent historical artifacts capturing the early creative output of electronic music pioneers during their formative years. Each pressing will be strictly limited with no reprints planned, making them instant collectibles for both electronic music enthusiasts and cultural historians.

For Nublu, this reissue serves as both celebration and validation of the club’s commitment to nurturing underground talent. The fact that these artists continue to innovate and influence electronic music nearly two decades later proves the lasting impact of the creative ecosystem Nublu fostered during one of New York’s most fertile periods for experimental music. This is electronic music history, pressed to vinyl and ready to inspire a new generation of underground innovators.

Collectively, the Nublu Dance series captures the club ethos in a remix form while showcasing Nubluʼs signature international underground sound.

Listen to Nublu Dance here

Press release Only Good Stuff

Belleruche share an atmospheric new single ‘Overexposed’

Continuing to celebrate their musical reunion after more than a decade of silence, UK trio Belleruche present an atmospheric new single ‘Overexposed‘, the third track taken from a writing and recording session which took place this spring in Scotland.

The band describe this one thusly: “Smash, crash and blunder. Old bass amps bought in service road lay-bys, skittering drums and 808s. Vocals recorded through all sorts of mics and put through all sorts of effects, Guitar channeling 1990s black plastic FX pedals and Northern stages. Relationships that fall apart in the moment. A track for driving in the dark, under a storm cloud sky, away from something, or someone.”

 

Listen to ‘Overexposed’ here 

 

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff 

Alexander IV releases ‘This Won’t Do’ feat. Cezanne

Sonar Kollektiv proudly presents “This Won’t Do”, the new single from producer and multi-instrumentalist Alexander IV. Featuring the captivating vocals of Cézanne, the track marks the first release from Alexander IV’s debut album ‘Alchemist’, due in March 2026.

Alexander IV is the pseudonym of eclectic Dutch producer, multi-instrumentalist, and eminent beat-maker Joris Feiertag. While widely known for his club-focused output under the name Feiertag and as the drummer for Dutch funk outfit Kraak & Smaak, this now well-worn sobriquet has allowed him to explore his hip-hop, soul, and jazz roots with freedom and depth. As Alexander IV, he crafts music that feels brand-new yet nostalgic, uncomplicated yet masterful.

“This Won’t Do” is a serene slice of modern soul that, despite its choppy jazz-fuelled 116 bpm breakbeat, glides effortlessly with a cinematic warmth. The track sees Alexander IV paired symbiotically with fellow Dutch artist Cézanne, whose distinctive voice also featured on his earlier release “Burnin’” from the Bloom EP (via Sidekick Music). Here, Cézanne delivers a heartfelt vocal that floats perfectly above layered keys, a subtle but infectious groove, and fine-tuned rhythmic detail.

The single is also a first glimpse into Alchemist, a deeply personal record built from small sonic fragments—chopped, reversed, slowed down, and reimagined. “The cinematic atmosphere I envisioned came through just as I hoped,” Joris explains. “One of the things I’m most proud of is the detail. Every element has its place. Even the smallest quotes and samples are intentional—everything aligns.” The album is a nostalgic journey through sound, informed by formative influences such as Mr. Scruff, Thievery Corporation, The Herbaliser, Tosca, and Kruder & Dorfmeister, as well as modern luminaries like SAULT and Khruangbin.

Throughout the project, Feiertag worked closely with a cast of gifted musicians—Bart Wirtz (flute and saxophone), Luuk Hof and Samir Saif (trumpet), and Robin de Zeeuw (double bass)—weaving their contributions into a rich sonic tapestry grounded in jazz and soul.

“Vocals throughout the album come from Cézanne, Oli Hannaford, and Pete Josef, ” he adds. “It was a joy to work with all of them—especially on tracks that lean more toward structured songs, some of which were influenced by afrobeat and artists like SAULT. ”

As the album title suggests, Alexander IV has taken these elements—analog and digital, past and present—and transformed them into something pure and intentional. With “This Won’t Do” , he opens the Alchemist chapter in style: subtle, soulful, and full of promise.

Listen to ‘This Won’t Do feat. Cezanne’ here

 

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff 

Fulu Miziki: The Sound of Afrofuturism and Transformation through Discarded Objects

Fulu Miziki, an Afrofurturist musical ensemble from the Democratic Republic of the Congo (DRC), is offering us a glimpse into an inspired future, where waste is seen as a resource and adaptation goes hand in hand with human connection. Emerging from Kinshasa’s Ngwaka neighbourhood in the DRC, the group crafts its musical sounds from the discarded remnants of daily life—plastic jerry cans, PVC pipes and computer cases become drums, horns and bass guitars in their hands. Their name, Fulu Miziki, translates roughly to ‘music from garbage’, although their practice is anything but wasteful; it is an act of transformation: musical, material and ideological.

“We were all born under musical influence,” they tell us. “We hear music everywhere: the intense sounds of taxis, the street noise, the churches, the mosques, the street bars. All of these have made us who we are today. Fulu Miziki began as something from our homes in Kinshasa—now it has gone global. We are proud of that.”

This globalisation is evident not only in their music but in their message. The genre they’ve coined, Twerkanda, is a post-soukous, Afro disco-house hybrid laced with Congolese rhythms and a sharp punk energy. “Twerkanda also has an element of punk,” they explain. “Our love of guitars has been a great ingredient. Being born in a country with more than 450 languages, we have different sounds from all over that we blend to call Twerkanda. We see ourselves as the afro-futuristic-punk ensemble.”

Photography courtesy of Fulu Miziki

The term Afrofuturism looms large over Fulu Miziki’s artistic vision—but not in the Hollywood sense of utopias, dystopias and neon-drenched futures. For them, Afrofuturism is not a visual spectacle, it’s a philosophy of healing and reconnection. “It’s not about flying cars and tall buildings as it’s portrayed in movies. It’s all about the connection, the music, the community, the vibes and the energy we share with ourselves.” This spiritual undercurrent runs through their practice: from transforming trash into instruments, to performing in handmade masks that evoke ancestral power, to engaging in community workshops with children.

Their creative process begins not in a studio but in the streets of cities around the world. “Everything starts with what we find on our way”, they share. “We recycle from each country we travel to. If you ever look at our instruments, we can take you on a world tour.” Every new object found—a cracked jerry can in Lisbon, a wire spool in Berlin—becomes a potential new sound. When things break, as they often do, reinvention is immediate. “Each instrument broken is a new search for sounds. Our sounds change accordingly and we adapt.”

This ethos of improvisation was tested on their European tour, including a 2022 show in Rome where a large portion of their gear was lost. Yet rather than a setback, it became a crucible. “We have built instruments backstage because we lost our suitcases or they broke during travels. Remember, everything is recycled, so they break so easily. We have to adapt.”

Their music—ecstatic, driving and spiritual—conveys both a celebration and a warning. While 2022’s debut EP ‘Ngbaka’ delivered vibrant danceability with underlying urgency, their 2024 release ‘Mokano’ marks a shift toward inner confrontation. “Mokano was a completely different journey,” they reflect. “We poured our hearts into this work. It’s about letting go; it’s about moving with these specific beats that have conquered our audience. We have an understanding of our art more than we used to.”

The visual component of Fulu Miziki’s performance—costumes forged from waste, warrior-like masks, and otherworldly silhouettes—is more than aesthetic. It’s performative storytelling. “The masks came in to reinforce what already existed. It makes the vibe vibing—we can’t imagine who we are without them. But at the same time, we’re not used to hiding our faces. That’s why throughout the show, we remove them and show you who we are. Because at the end, it’s about human connection.”

Yet, this connection is tethered to something deeply political. Fulu Miziki’s work doesn’t shy away from the historical context of colonialism and environmental destruction. “I’m sure you’re aware of the millions of Congolese souls lost during King Leopold II. All of this was because of rubber,” they say. “In our view, what caused the deaths of millions of Congolese people during colonialism is coming back in different packaging now, and we are at its mercy. Plastic kills and has been killing us for a very long time.”

Photography courtesy of Fulu Miziki

In response, the group leads hands-on workshops, inviting children and communities into the world of instrument-making and ecological awareness. Their philosophy of sharing is central to their mission. “We love what we do and we believe it has a huge impact, so why not share it with others? Before we went international, back home in Kinshasa, we had a kids’ band, a younger version of ourselves.”

Looking ahead, their ambition is quietly revolutionary. Their 34-city European tour, running from April to October 2025, is not only a musical achievement but a deepening of their transnational presence. About their legacy, they share, “We are already living in the future. We connect with the world, we travel to different cities, we eat different food and are hosted by people we never knew we could meet. What else can we ask the ancestors for? Of course, we are looking at collaborations with other artists, which is already underway. We are now working on our debut album, and this will be huge. We expect nothing less, the work has been done, now we harvest.”

Fulu Miziki is a living example of a vibrant, active manifesto. They are reimagining and addressing the politics of waste, the language of music and the shape of African futures. Their rhythms, born from Kinshasa’s streets and sculpted through adaptation, carry honest truths and euphoric possibilities. Their music insists on human connectivity and through sound and performance, their impact is contagious. 

 

Connect with Fulu Miziki on Instagram

Watch Fulu Miziki’s Live Shows here 

Book Tickets for Fulu Miziki’s European Tour here 

 

Written by Grace Crooks

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

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ART THEMES || Theme Seven: Unfurling

‘Unfurling’ marks the seventh chapter in CEC’s ongoing Art Themes series — a curated exploration of contemporary artistic practice across South Africa, the African continent and the globe. This latest theme takes as its starting point the act of opening, both literal and metaphorical. The selected works navigate processes of emergence, renewal, visibility, vulnerability, and material transformation — particularly as they relate to identity, ecological sensitivity, memory and cultural continuity.

The artists featured in this edition — Bronwyn Katz, Nnenna Okore, Buhlebezwe Siwani, and Sungi Mlengeya — span a wide range of disciplines and geographies. What unites them, however, is a shared interest in slow, intentional gestures that push back against dominant narratives and linear conceptions of time and progress. These are not loud, overtly confrontational works — but rather considered, process-driven practices that interrogate the meaning of becoming in a world where identity, politics, and place are constantly shifting.

Set against the backdrop of South Africa’s springtime — a season of ecological and symbolic significance — Unfurling reflects on what it means to begin again, particularly in a context where history continues to weigh heavily on the present. In this context, growth is not naïve or uncomplicated. It is informed by layers of memory, resistance, and lived experience.

Borrowing from the idiom that nature does not forget, this theme considers the act of opening as uncomfortable, liberating and ultimately, necessary.

 

Bronwyn Katz (South Africa)

Medium: Sculpture, installation, video, performance

​Bronwyn Katz’s multidisciplinary practice is deeply rooted in the political and emotional geographies of land and memory. Working with found and often discarded materials — including bed springs, foam mattresses, iron ore, and wire — Katz investigates the way in which physical space carries the residue of lived histories. These materials are not merely aesthetic choices; they are conceptually loaded signifiers of dispossession, mobility and the tension between permanence and transience.

Katz’s use of abstraction invites a multiplicity of interpretations. Her sculptures and installations often evoke domesticity, rest, and containment, while simultaneously suggesting rupture and absence. These tensions reflect the broader sociopolitical realities of post-apartheid South Africa, where questions of land, identity and belonging remain unresolved.

In the context of Unfurling, Katz’s work can be seen as occupying a space of suspended movement — not quite static, but not fully resolved. There’s a latent energy in her forms, as if they are in the process of slowly unfolding or recomposing themselves. This mirrors the artist’s ongoing inquiry into how spaces — both physical and psychic — are shaped by occupation, erasure and return.

Photography courtesy of the artist’s website and Instagram archives

Nnenna Okore (Nigeria/USA)

Medium: Sculpture, fiber art, installation

Nnenna Okore’s practice bridges contemporary art, ecological research and community-based activism. She is widely recognized for her labor-intensive sculptures and installations, which mimic organic growth forms using biodegradable materials such as cheesecloth, bioplastics, paper pulp, and natural fibers. Okore’s tactile works are both materially and thematically grounded in the rhythms of nature — particularly decay, regeneration and transformation.

Her installations often resemble root systems, fungal blooms, coral formations, or other naturally occurring textures and networks. This is not incidental: Okore is deeply committed to raising environmental awareness and uses her work to open up conversations about sustainability, waste and ecological interdependence.

Under the theme of Unfurling, Okore’s work takes on added significance. Her forms are not static; they expand, fray, collapse and regroup — echoing the biological processes of growth and decay. They speak to the interconnectivity of life systems, both human and nonhuman, and encourage a reconsideration of how we relate to our environment — not as dominators, but as participants in an ongoing cycle of emergence and return.

Her forthcoming exhibition Between Earth and Sky opens on 18 September 2025 at the Royal Botanical Gardens, Kew — a fitting site for work that exists at the intersection of art and ecology.

Photography courtesy of the artist’s website and Instagram archives

Buhlebezwe Siwani (South Africa)

Medium: Performance, installation, photography, video

Buhlebezwe Siwani works primarily in performance and installation, often incorporating photographic and video documentation as extensions of her live work. Her practice is deeply informed by African spirituality, ancestral knowledge systems and the complexities of Black womanhood. Raised in various parts of South Africa (and currently working between Amsterdam and Cape Town) Siwani brings a translocal perspective to her engagement with ritual, embodiment and resistance.

Siwani often uses her own body as a site of inquiry, enacting performances that draw on traditional forms of healing and spiritual mediation. Her work is visually compelling, often stark and elemental, relying on materials such as water, clay, textiles and symbolic objects.

Siwani’s work speaks to spiritual emergence — the unfurling of channels between the seen and unseen, the ancestral and the contemporary. Her performances challenge Western epistemologies by foregrounding forms of knowledge that are embodied, intuitive and relational.

Rather than illustrating a linear narrative, her works operate as ritual encounters — spaces in which transformation is not only imagined but enacted.

 

Photography courtesy of the artist’s website and Instagram archives

Sungi Mlengeya (Tanzania)

Medium: Painting; minimalist portraiture

Sungi Mlengeya is a Tanzanian painter best known for her minimalist, large-scale portraits of Black women, rendered against stark white backgrounds. Her compositions are defined by their restrained color palette and the use of negative space — a formal decision that allows for both clarity and ambiguity.

Mlengeya’s figures often appear suspended, partially rendered or emerging from the canvas, suggesting a quiet yet potent assertion of presence. Her subjects are frequently depicted in moments of rest, contemplation, or interiority — a marked contrast to the often hyper-visible and politicized portrayals of Black women in mainstream visual culture.

While minimalist in style, Mlengeya’s work carries deep conceptual weight. It raises questions about representation, identity, and autonomy. Her use of space is particularly relevant to the theme of Unfurling — suggesting a gradual visibility, an intentional withholding, or an unfolding of self on one’s own terms.

There is a sense of containment in her paintings — but also of readiness, as if her subjects are in the midst of becoming more fully themselves, on their own timelines.

 

Unfurling, as a thematic lens, allows us to consider emergence not as a singular event, but as an ongoing, complex process. Across media and modes of expression, the featured artists in this edition bring a thoughtful and often intimate approach to the act of opening — whether that be through healing, memory, ecological engagement, or the simple assertion of presence.

What binds these practices is not uniformity, but a shared sensitivity to process, to transformation, and to the necessity of holding space for that which does not arrive fully formed. At a time when immediacy and spectacle dominate much of the art world’s discourse, Unfurling champions slowness, care, and the power of gradual revelation.

 

Photography courtesy of the artist’s website and Instagram archives

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

BOYDE’s SS26 Collection: Afrosartorialism

‘Afrosartorialism’, Spring/Summer 2026 collection by BOYDE is a fusion of “Afro” referring to African culture, heritage and identity, and “sartorialism,” which pertains to fashion and tailoring. It represents a fashion philosophy deeply rooted in African traditions and aesthetics, celebrating culture through clothing. This  blend of modern fashion and traditional African influences highlights distinctive designs, rich textiles, and artisanal craftsmanship at its core. 

In essence, Afrosartorialism is a form of self-expression that honours African heritage while reflecting an elevated, culturally rich approach to dressing. 

Photography courtesy of BOYDE

In this collection, the brand explores and reflects on the powerful subcultural movement of the Swenkas, a community of South African Zulu men, primarily migrant labourers from Johannesburg’s working-class neighbourhoods, who have long used fashion as a means of asserting dignity, pride and self-worth. 

Originating in the mid-1900s, the Swenkas developed a unique form of expression that blends fashion, choreography and healthy competition. In a society marked by hardship, inequality,  and the lingering effects of Apartheid, these men channelled their creativity and hope into what became known as “swenking”, a tradition that borrows from the English term “swank,” meaning to display one’s achievements, wealth, or elegance in an impressive manner. 

Despite the gruelling realities of their lives, harsh working conditions, long separations from families, and limited economic freedom, the Swenkas maintained an unwavering belief in cleanliness, self-respect, chaste behaviour and brotherhood. Their performances, which took place predominantly on Saturday nights, became an outlet for joy, identity and resilience. Swenkas would dress in sharp, tailored suits, often European in style, complete with brimmed hats, straw hats, polished leather shoes and some accessories. 

Photography courtesy of BOYDE

During these events, men would take the stage and exhibit their ensembles with  choreographed movements, drawing attention to the craftsmanship and elegance of their outfits. These amateur competitions were judged based on two key criteria: style and attitude. The best-dressed participant would often receive a cash prize collected from fellow participants or, on occasion, a goat. 

Swenkas are more than just well-dressed men, they are symbols of creative resistance and aspirational identity. Their legacy represents how fashion can be used not only to uplift the  self, but also to challenge societal norms, create community, and preserve dignity in the face  of adversity.

IsiZulu Translation: 

Kulolu cwaningo lweqoqo le-Ntwasahlobo/Ihlobo ‘26, sihlola futhi siphinde sicubungule  ukunyakaza kwamasiko aphansi oSwenka. Leli yithimba lamadoda amaZulu, ikakhulukazi  abasebenzi abafudukayo abavela emiphakathini esezingeni eliphansi eGoli, elasebenzisa  imfashini njengendlela yokugcina isithunzi, ukuzihlonipha nokudala ukuzigqaja. 

Oswenka, baqala phakathi nawo-1900, bathuthukisa indlela ehlukile yokuziveza ehlanganisa  imfashini, ukunyakaza komzimba okucwangcisiwe kanye nokuncintisana okunempilo,  okuwumphumela wemvelo wokuphila ngaphansi kwezimo zokucindezelwa uhulumeni wobandlululo. Igama loSwenka lisuselwa esiNgisini elithi swank, okusho ukubonisa ubuhle, impumelelo noma ingcebo ngendlela evelele. 

Ngaphandle kwezimo ezinzima zokusebenza, ukuhlukaniswa nemindeni isikhathi eside  kanye nokungalingani kwezomnotho, oSwenka babelondoloza izimiso zokuzihlonipha,  ukuhlanzeka, ukuziphatha okuhle kanye nobumbano. Ukuncintisana kwabo, okwenzeka  kakhulu ngeMigqibelo ntambhama, kwakuhlanganisa ukugqoka amasudi asikiwe kahle, amaningi awo egqugquzelwe isitayela saseYurophu, ahambisana nezigqoko zothuli,  izicathulo zesikhumba ezicwebezelisiwe kanye nezinhlobonhlobo zezisekeli zokuhlobisa. 

Umqhudelwano wawuhlolwa ikakhulukazi ezintweni ezimbili: isitayela nesimilo. Owayegqoke kahle kakhulu wayevame ukuthola umklomelo wemali owaqoqwa kwabanye  ababambiqhaza, noma ngezinye izikhathi, imbuzi. 

Ngakho-ke, oSwenka abazange babe wukuziveza kwemfashini kuphela, kodwa baba  izimpawu zokuqamba okusha, ukumelana ngokobuciko kanye nokwakha ubunikazi  obuphakeme. Ifa labo lifakazela ukuthi imfashini ingaba yithuluzi lokuqinisa ukuzethemba,  ukuhlasela izimiso zomphakathi ezingalungile, kanye nokudala umphakathi ohambisana  nobumbano nobungcweti. 

 

Creative Direction: Samkelo Boyde Xaba 

Art Direction: Dineo Ramothwala 

Art Coordinator: Tatenda Chidora 

Film Direction: Simba Takaedza 

Photography: Lerato Ntiso 

Producer: Hlengiwe Mkwayi 

Cinematographer/DOP: Wesley Takaedza 

Assistant Camera: Tshepiso Sekhitla 

Gaffer & Lighting: Phillip Martome 

MUA: Bongiwe 

Set Assistant: Minenhle Swelihle, Thando Nombida

Cast: Demashel, Aaron, Nelson 

 

Press release courtesy of BOYDE

 

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When Your Medium Is Your Ancestral Inheritance with Visual Archivist, Haneem Christian

In Parable of the Sower, Octavia Butler’s seminal work, the protagonist Lauren Olamina receives an internal edict that grants her both a framework for survival and a sense of purpose: “All that you touch, You Change. All that you Change, Changes you. The only lasting truth is Change. God is Change.” The novel, set in a near-future, post-apocalyptic America unravelled by ecological collapse and social breakdown (so, more like now-future), explores the fractured terrain of community and resilience in the face of disintegration — this awareness of change as both inevitable and generative is what carries Lauren forward. 

I’m thinking of Octavia, and her depiction of Lauren, as I piece together my conversation with Haneem Christian. Lauren’s understanding of change forms part Earthseed; a philosophical construct that Octavia uses as a literary device, to insist that survival is only possible through reimagining belief and orchestrating destiny in commonality with others. Haneem, I think, is doing something similar. Change informs how Haneem’s work re-orientates themselves within the historiographical and spiritual roots of Cape Town; that things have changed, and will change, and archiving these tides is the call of certain people, from each generation.  

To divine a philosophy and an archive, as Haneem does through their work, requires an eye attuned to see — truly see — and to witness. This psychic and skillful means is so embodied by Haneem, that one of their projects is literally titled, ‘Eyes To See.’ The act of seeing gathers into a seed, from which a praxis and politics of care can take root and grow. This notion, that care is a resource, means that we each have a collective to uphold the way we care and what we create. If you look closely, Haneem praxis and care is granting us their wisdom tree.

In our conversation, I ask Haneem where they might situate their practice as an artist; “In the past three years, I’ve really been nurtured by grief. Our eldest brother died, as well as all of our grandparents” they reflect, It made me rethink everything — about life, about creativity, about my spiritual inheritance. My brother was one of the most creative people I’ve ever known, and my grandfather, who had his own journey with mental illness, was also almost possessed by creativity. He photographed every single day in Kalk Bay, capturing fishermen and boats. He was so misunderstood. I grew up completely surrounded by creativity.” 

Grief, as we both agree whilst talking, is an immense initiation; loss and death birth new forms of becoming, and for Haneem, it has been the recognition that creativity itself is their inheritance — passed through family histories of both brilliance and struggle.

This awareness deepened through Haneem’s politicisation during South Africa’s decolonial student movements, in which erasure and visibility came to upturn the rainbow nation haze – that democratic promise which opiated our political consciousness, as the so-called ‘born-free generation’ still grappling with the systemic inheritances of apartheid and colonialism. “During #FeesMustFall, I remember the trans collective disrupting one of UCT’s supporting-the-movement events. I thought: nobody is going to document or archive this moment with an honest eye. So much of the storytelling at the time was coming from men — regardless of their intersections — and it was erasing the work of the trans collective and black women. That moment really stuck with me and pushed me to think about my role as someone who could be on course with an honest eye.” 

‘Kewpie se Kind – CC Martinez’, Photographed by Haneem Christian

‘Ha da ge a (we are here) with Lucy Campbell’, Photographed by Haneem Christian

This honest eye threads through Haneem’s artistic and archival work. For them, their practice is inseparable from radical reimagining; “My thesis idea was that the only way we can make real change is if everything burns down and we start from zero. My lecturer told me that was inciting violence, that I couldn’t write about that.” Destruction is a necessary part of life, and one of the greatest paradoxes of Western imperial society is that we inhabit a culture that is, in essence, a death cult — and yet we remain terrified of death. The very notion of radical dismantling equates to death in the eyes of those invested in power’s continuity.

Incubated by grief and drawn to fertile beginnings, I ask Haneem about the seeming inseparability of their spiritual and political practices to which they share “My spiritual and political understandings of myself are completely intertwined. For me, reconnecting with my ancestors is both a spiritual and political act. As a so-called coloured person, our identity has been dissected, and we’ve been removed from our ancestors and stripped of land. That means our spiritual practice has very little ground to stand on. So my work is about reclaiming that inheritance, and why I now call myself an archivist over an artist or filmmaker. What I’m really trying to do is to archive.”

Haneem’s work is rooted in the histories and presences of Queer, Black, and Indigenous liberation in Cape Town, and most deeply, the Cape Flats. The Flats, as a landscape, is a scarred but beautiful archive — layered with histories of displacement and survival, peppered by the stubborn flora of fynbos and the salt-stung winds of the coast; reminders that resilience takes many forms. “I feel haunted by the saying, ‘We’ve always been here.’  I always ask: who is the ‘we’? Where is the ‘here’? Especially on the African continent, those questions matter. Naming and locating things is powerful. As a queer, so-called coloured person from the Cape Flats, naming gives us a place to plant our roots,” and that’s “why my first film was about locating the ‘we’ and the ‘you’ on this continent — starting with the indigenous Khoi people, who had a three-gender language system. We have always lived this way. Film became my way to make those histories accessible, because people at complex intersections often don’t have access to literature that speaks to us.”

This practice of naming and locating becomes, for Haneem, a politics of home-making in a place historically designed to unhouse. They draw strength from thinkers like historian Lucy Campbell — to whom their film “Rituals of Resistance” is a homage — who once told them that people of mixed and diverse heritages, systematically severed from their roots, often struggled to find their home. “That really landed for me,” Haneem recalls. “Locating ourselves in history is one way to find home.” 

Through their archives Haneem is re-inscribing presence — planting roots where erasure once took hold, and insisting that belonging is an inheritance and a practice of equal honour.

 

 

Malume – Thandi Gula, Photographed by Haneem Christian

For Haneem, inheritance is  a matter of responsibility. “I’ve reframed my idea of inheritance. We usually think of it in material terms, but I’ve come to think of it as spiritual. My mentor described photography as part of my visual inheritance, and I love that. My body of work, ‘Kewpie Se Kind’, came from that place – thinking about people in history, like a gender-diverse person who decided their life was worth occupying space for, and so they did. That’s the kind of inheritance I claim.” Kewpie is, herself, an iconic — a drag artist and hairdresser who lived in District Six in the 1950s and 1960s, and documenting her own life and community at a time when queer lives were totally marginalised and erased. Kewpie’s images are records of joy and belonging as ever-present, and her archive has since become a vital record of queer existence under apartheid; she now stands as a patron figure for queer people in Cape Town today.

Photography and film are Haneem’s offering, with their preference for medium-format film, they embrace the discipline of slowness. “The research before I even pick up my camera takes months… I mainly shoot medium-format film, which only gives me ten frames per roll. That forces me to sit with myself: what am I trying to say in this photo? I’ll spend 15 minutes finding a single frame – I don’t care! I want a moment that will live on forever, beyond me.” Haneem’s work attends to a gesture of care that carries the weight of the eternal, and this ethic of care extends into the politics of representation. 

“My constant question is: what is my duty in subverting the power dynamic? What makes me different from a white man photographing the same subject? For me, it’s about responsibility, and asking why does this person want to be photographed? Why do they want to share themselves and live on forever through an image? My art is about translating that.” Translation, in Haneem’s hands, is the space in which sound and movement could carry what the still frame could not. “I always joke that my brother (the equally and extraordinarily gifted artist, Imraan Christian) bullied me into filmmaking. From the start, he was like, ‘You have the eye, you’re better than me, do it.’… But eventually, I reached a point in photography where still images couldn’t hold everything me and the people I was researching with wanted to say. The craft, the archive, needed more from me. My brother and my partner – my two biggest bullies – pushed me. My films really are just my stills in motion, with sound meeting the image. That was the natural extension of archiving.” 

Haneem resists easy categorisation, and though they “don’t think of myself as chasing an aesthetic or actually don’t call myself a filmmaker because I respect the technicalities of the craft too much,” their work occupies a specific mood, which can only be a direct reflection of Haneem’s own essence. I think this often defines an artist from having a unique point of view to having a transcendent one; how much of their innate essence can they capture, when reflecting work that has little to do with them? How can one be universal and personal, all at once? That is mastery. 

This ethic is most alive in their recent body of work, which centres the lives of Black queer elders as embodied archives. It is a chapter in a broader ancestral story that Haneem has been called to write. 

‘The Lover’ photographed by Haneem Christian

‘The Girls at the Klopse – Chenal le Cap, Emogan Moore, BB Vahlour’, photographed by Haneem Christian

When I ask Haneem about how their international and local success has felt; they explain that “I don’t measure myself by accomplishments, but by my most recent body of work… I had moments where I thought: I’m actually doing what I set out to do. Sitting with Aunty Yvette, with Lucy Campbell, with Theresa Raisenberg — lamming in their houses, drinking tea — I felt like, if I died now, I’d done what I came to do. That’s the kind of arrival I believe in.”

“Being with those elders, or working alongside them is entering a dialogue that is its own kind of creative ancestry. That, to me, matters more than earthly acknowledgements or accolades. It’s what makes me feel at home in my practice.”

Locally, and within the fraught realities of the Cape Flats so often reduced to headlines about gang violence, Haneem insists on nuance. “The Cape Flats are described as the most dangerous places, and yes, they are — but let’s not homogenise them. I’m from Grassy Park, and I can’t just walk into Elsies River unless I’m with my sisters who are from there, and we’re having the best time! That’s what I want to trace in my work: that we create full and abundant lives as Black queer people, wherever we are.” In this way, Haneem’s commitment to relationships and archiving have the ability of dissolution against borders imposed by the consequences of apartheid’s spatial design. 

I usually conclude these conversations with something open-ended, or with a gentle nudge for advice toward our younger community members. Instead, I ask Haneem what their truth is now, to which they muse that they might have to come back to me…I know, it is a vast, impossible question, but I feel its weight hang between us, as Haneem’s work is some of the most truthful I have seen. They relent to my question, sharing: “So, my brother died at the exact time my career began growing internationally. He was 33; I’m 30 now. That was the loudest reality check. It taught me that nothing fucking matters except who you are in this moment, and the truth you choose to live, and that truth can change. I think staying true to that is why my career has been slower than others, but I’m grateful. Grief has given me perspective on time, on reality, on what’s real and what isn’t.”

“My brother’s death was my initiation into my spiritual journey, but also into my humanness. The truth is, there is no truth.” In this refusal to be dazzled by recognition, what shines instead is Haneem’s luminous truth of being alive in the now, as a living expression of their ancestral inheritance.

As a professional and artistic pathway, this is the deepest of journeys.  

 

Written by Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

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DJ Lag releases ‘GQTech’ with Ape Drums

Internationally acclaimed South African producer and DJ, DJ Lag, widely known as a pioneer of Gqom, makes a return with his new single ‘GQTech’; a hard-hitting collaboration with Ape Drums of Major Lazer. Out now on all streaming platforms, the track fuses Lag’s unmistakable Durban-born sound with Afro-Tech energy and festival-sized intensity, delivering a powerful anthem built for dance floors worldwide. The track is accompanied by the official visualiser.

Currently in the midst of a globe-spanning tour, DJ Lag has brought his electrifying sets to EDC Las Vegas, MTN Bushfire, and Ultra South Africa, further cementing his place as one of the most influential forces in global dance music. With recent appearances at DC10 in Ibiza, Rush Festival in France, Open Ground in Germany, Glastonbury, and Fabric in the UK, as well as upcoming shows at ADE and Unsound Festival, his international reach continues to expand at a rapid pace.

Following the success of his recent single ‘Woza’—praised by Mixmag, DJ Mag, Resident Advisor and more—‘GQTech’ pushes boundaries even further. Driven by pulsating percussion, hypnotic chants, and Lag’s signature Gqom synths, the track is elevated by Ape Drums’ infectious rhythms and a powerful techno-inspired beat. The result is a seamless and unexpected fusion, both immersive and irresistibly danceable, that bridges Afro-Tech and Gqom in a way that feels fresh and vital.

“Diplo from Major Lazer was one of the first international artists to connect with my music, so working with Ape Drums on this track feels like a full circle moment,” says DJ Lag. “And the fact that it’s such a banger makes it even better.” Ape Drums adds, “This record is so powerful. We both feel it bridges Afro-Tech and Gqom in a big way—and we can’t wait for the world to hear it.”

Known globally as the ‘Gqom King’, DJ Lag’s influence stretches far beyond Durban. With career-defining moments that include a Metro FM Award nomination for Hade Boss, a SAMA nod for Meeting with the King, a feature on Beyoncé’s GRAMMY-nominated The Lion King: The Gift, and a multi-platinum smash with The Re-Up (over 20 million streams), Lag has carved out a unique position as both an underground innovator and a mainstream powerhouse. Praised by Mixmag as “one of the best ambassadors for dance music in the world” and described by DJ Mag as “a pioneering force of Gqom’s global explosion,” he continues to reshape the soundscape of global electronic music with every release.

With more music on the way, continued festival appearances across the UK, Europe and Africa, and his ongoing Rinse FM residency, DJ Lag shows no signs of slowing down. ‘GQTech’ marks not just a return, but an evolution—an explosive new chapter from an artist who has never stopped pushing boundaries.

TOUR DATES:

04.10 Homecoming Africa, Pretoria

10.10 Unsound Festival, Krakow, Poland

11.10 Unsound Festival, Krakow, Poland

23.10 Descendants ADE, Amsterdam

25.10 RS Festival, Bern, Switzerland

28.11 Rage in the City, Johannesburg

 

Connect with DJ Lag:

INSTAGRAM

FACEBOOK

X

YOUTUBE

TIK TOK

 

Listen to ‘GQTech’ here

 

Press release courtesy of Sheila Afari PR 

Luukhanyo returns with new single ‘Venture’

South African rapper LUUKHANYO returns with his new single ‘Venture’. Over breezy production from SYRE, LUUKHANYO delivers his ode to the unbreakable spirit of Black people. ‘Venture’ draws from snapshots of his personal experience growing up as a Black teenager in post-apartheid South Africa, using lyrical specificity to resonate emotionally with a global audience. ‘Venture’ serves as a motivational message to those who face struggle to find the beauty in this unity.

“There’s a line in the song that goes ‘couldn’t wash this Black with bleach’” says LUUKHANYO of the resilience depicted in the song. “Black people tend to relate to each other all over the world, and there’s a common understanding of what it means to be Black and that can never be erased.”

 

In bringing his experiences to the table, LUUKHANYO hopes to inspire others to feel comfortable to be vulnerable in expressing themselves. “There is so much healing to be done in the world, and the first part of treating a wound is acknowledging that it’s there,” he explains. “Together we can bridge the gaps and work towards creating a world that embraces all of us – our differences and similarities, so we can move forward with broader perspective and sense of empathy.”

LUUKHANYO has developed a rich blend of rap, soul and funk that oozes from each track, establishing him as a staple of the South African creative community with a reputation for smooth sonics, introspective lyricism and a dynamic visual style. ‘Venture’ follows ‘Open Casket’ as part of a new chapter for LUUKHANYO as his art begins to permeate internationally. Having established overseas interest with a European tour last year, showcasing his magnetic stage present alongside his live band The Hii ROLLERS, he signed a distribution deal with London-based label WUGD to release a full-length project later in the year.

Follow LUUKHANYO:

Instagram

TikTok

YouTube

 

Listen to ‘Venture’ here

Press release courtesy of LUUKHANYO