Little has been known about the fate of beloved cultural, fashion and youth publication i-D Magazine since its parent company, Vice Media, filed for bankruptcy earlier this year. Vice bought i-D in 2012 from the publication’s founders, Terry and Tricia Jones – with i-D remaining a cultural stalwart, able to integrate digital offerings alongside its iconic, hardcopy print editions.  

Now, Karlie Kloss has swooped in to take ownership of i-D magazine, as reported by WWD; Kloss is set to assume the role of CEO, with the current editor-in-chief, Alastair McKimm, retaining his position as chief creative officer and global editor-in-chief.

As they say – models should always have a career back-up plan. Kloss has come well-acquainted with media acquisitions – In 2020, she spearheaded an investment group comprising fellow model Kaia Gerber, F1 racing star Lewis Hamilton, and producer Jason Blum, which successfully acquired W Magazine. 

The New Wave Issue, No. 373, Fall/Winter 2023 – courtesy of @i_D.
The Wise Up Issue, No. 322, Winter 12 -courtesy of i-D Online.

Kloss has been strategically expanding her diverse portfolio. Notably, she founded Kode With Klossy, an initiative offering free coding camps for girls, as well as Klosette, a fashion-centric realm within the Roblox metaverse, enabling players to fashion themselves and ascend through the ranks to attain the role of editor-in-chief. Furthermore, reports indicate her involvement in various digital startups, including one focused on integrating digital authentication IDs into clothing.

i-D was launched in the 1980s by Terry and Trica Jones as a means to document the post-punk era of the UK: inspiring the likes of Dazed that came after it. Since then, it has become an essential fashion and culture bible known for its cutting edge editorial content. With the news that editorial legend, Alastair McKimm, will stay on to facilitate this transition  – we are hopeful i-D will be able to weather the storm that has hit publishing in the last few years.

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Last week, Mount Nelson, A Belmond Hotel, hosted CONFECTIONS X COLLECTIONS (CxC): ‘’an annual coming-together of creative expression fusing five days of exclusive salon-style fashion shows, with designer- inspired confectionery.’’ This is the second iteration of CxC curated by Twyg, and is fast-becoming an incredible event that signals the beginning of summer, the end of the year and all things sartorial in South African design. 

The traditional runway format has been up for reinterpretation for some time. With the pandemic leading to greater accessibility for viewers to experience collections through their screens – the notion of sitting like ducks in a row, with heavy strobe-lighting (not to mention the difficulty in even getting into these shows) has started to become somewhat limiting. Experiencing design is something so intrinsically intimate; it’s a window into the breadth and depth of someone’s creative essence, their craftsmanship and point of view. Set this against the fact that South Africa’s design landscape is inherently informed by our country’s collective penchant for relaxed – chilled – experiences, and the idea of being able to snack during a fashion experience – well, CxC was bound to be ingenious from the start. Then, when one of the most iconic hotels in Cape Town, The Mount Nelson, offered up not only its richly pink-hued space to a salon-style fashion concept – but also its full support and collaboration – suffice to say, a new legacy was born last year, curated by the team at Twyg; South Africa’s leading sustainability publication and NPO.

CONFECTIONS X COLLECTIONS sees five designers showcase over five days, with two seatings: a morning seating and an afternoon one. This year featured designers Wanda Lephoto, Lezanne Viviers of Viviers Studio the ‘Prince of Prints’ Chu Suwannapha of Chulaap, as well as returning talent and internationally acclaimed winner of the 2020 LVMH Prize, Sindiso Khumalo and Johannesburg-based Mantsho by Palesa Mokubung, whose bold, print-centric garments are rooted in African indigenous culture. Guests were invited to sit in the beautiful conservatory, savouring The Nellie’s institutional Afternoon Tea experience as the showcases unfold. It is rare to be so close to the models in their garments and to see the workmanship so up close. Even more rare is the delight of tasting a savoury or sweet creation as this takes place! Mount Nelson’s pastry chef Vicky Gurovich collaborated with each designer to create a bespoke treat for the limited-edition menu – reflecting the designer’s world through the art of Afternoon Tea. 

Jackie May, founder and editor of Twyg, reflects on this year’s iteration: as curated by Twyg in close-collaboration with Mount Nelson. As she says, “this year proved to us that CxC is now an established platform – we have really made sure to establish its roots. It was a beautiful curation of different voices and people telling their story through fashion. Having each show the day after each other, and to have each show so different from each other, is such a phenomenal window into how complex and rich South African design is. The intention of CxC is to show designers in a different light and I’m so grateful to our team for their commitment to developing this platform.” 

We attended Wanda Lephoto’s showcase for CxC last Wednesday, welcomed by the hotel’s tea-sommelier Craig Cupido and his team and the experience instilled in me two things: the gratitude for living in such a beautiful city like Cape Town on a summer’s day, and the promise of South Africa’s design future.

Wanda showcased his collection ‘Our People’, on route back from presenting it in Milan and Paris in September. The models were styled in an array of vintage accessories: dainty stilettos that have seen a thousand Sunday sermons, hats by Crystal Birch and some exclusive to this collection. I was blown away by the construction and thoughtful array of references – indeed, there was something almost nostalgic about the collection. In conversation with CxC’s MC, Seth Sithembele Shezi, Wanda explained that, “this collection is inspired by being young and being born and raised in Joburg. I would watch West African, North Asian people migrate to Joburg and there was such an amazing thing happening – from Congolese to Nigerian families and more. I would watch families arrive and how they would integrate into South African society through the medium of dressing. On Friday’s and Saturday’s their kids would play with South African kids, dance and be part of subcultures. On Sunday’s, they’d wear traditional outfits and then on Monday, head to work dressed in western white shirts and navy suits. I would then see these same families get evicted from their building and take these ‘Ghana Must Go’ checked bags back home because they couldn’t afford to be in South Africa anymore.”  

Wanda explained that the story of migration, family, people, home are all varying threads that weave together the sartorial blueprint of South Africa as a mode of identity, which is a focal point of his work. Wanda Lephoto self-describes as ‘forming new propositions for representation’ – this succinct description is felt in all aspects of his work, with ‘Our People’ conveying this perfectly. The specific creation for Wanda Lephoto by Executive Pastry Chef, Vicky Gurvich, was a ‘vanilla cream cheese delice, blueberry jelly, strawberry compote’ delicately place with wafer paper in the renowned ‘Ghana Must Go’ chequered print, as found across the collection. The treat itself was comforting- with richness spilling out from all angles – not unlike Wanda Lephoto’s continued distillation of his perspective – the memories and materials of being African. Another striking aspect of CxC is just how committed The Mount Nelson is to this platform – and the arts, overall; “set in the vibrant heart of Cape Town, it’s only fitting that we should shine a spotlight on the city’s buoyant creative spirit, from the arts and fashion to culinary delights. Championing Africa’s leading fashion designers is just one of the ways in which we’re doing this.” says General Manager Tiago Moraes Sarmento.

To put on 10 shows, over five days, in the same space – so seamlessly that no guest nor attendee might even for a second suspect the logistic magnitude of this – is a serious feat. This feat was led by Ky Bxshxff, fashion producer and director for Twyg. With an incredible team (including creative duo Ant Hinrichsen and Armand Dicker and Twyg’s fashion editor, Tandekile Mkize) Ky reflects on CxC, saying that “the first time you do something, it’s always a bit of an experiment. With the launch of CxC last year, the only thing we were sure about was that we had the right ingredients: Twyg magazine’s curation and commitment to slow fashion, the incredible space that is the iconic pink lady and her unmatched afternoon tea offering, and an incredible high-five to South African fashion launched by none other than Thebe Magugu. The feedback and the excitement was overwhelming – the experiment proved that there is a real desire for South Africans to have a conversation about luxury and creativity on our own terms.” On their directorship of the event, Ky found CxC as a remedying experience – one that serves its purpose in celebrating South African design and the power of collaboration, “directing the shows this year again was an incredible privilege. Every designer – from last year’s line-up through to 2023 – has a one-of-a-kind point of view that redefines luxury with an African lens. They write a new lore inspired by reimagining codes and culture. I also worked with an amazing backstage team of young fashion voices who give me absolute faith in the future of this industry on our continent. It’s another reminder that every garment you see represents an ecosystem of jobs. And every choice you make has an impact. I think these are all incredibly important conversations to have – and what more idyllic place to have them, than set against a backdrop of pink!”

What a stunning confirmation of what fashion production and celebration really means: the many hands that make and create, to foster the potentiality of design in South Africa. Congratulations and our deepest gratitude to the entire team at Twyg, each person at The Mount Nelson and all who made CxC’s second year – absolutely perfect.

IMAGE CREDITS
Photography by Mikayla McClean and Candice Bodington.

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Paying homage to their home state of California, Stüssy & Levi’s® have returned with a new capsule that brings Stüssy’s signature design aesthetic to staple Levi’s® garments. The assortment features a range of trucker jackets and jeans available in three distinctive colorways: black, brown, & pink. Crafted from jacquard fabric and finished with two-tone garment dyes gives each piece a one-of-a-kind result with a washed vintage feel.

ABOUT LEVI’S®

The Levi’s® brand epitomizes classic American style and effortless cool. Since their invention by Levi Strauss & Co. in 1873, Levi’s® jeans have become one of the most recognizable garments of clothing in the world—capturing the imagination and loyalty of people for generations. Today, the Levi’s® brand portfolio continues to evolve through a relentless pioneering and innovative spirit that is unparalleled in the apparel industry. Our range of leading jeanswear and accessories are available in more than 110 countries, allowing individuals around the world to express their personal style.

ABOUT STÜSSY

In the late ’80s and early ’90s, a brand was born from the Southern California surf scene and swept through the clothing landscape to redefine the look and ideology of casual-wear. That brand was Stüssy, a label that grew organically from youth movements and inadvertently revolutionized the clothing business.

Shawn Stüssy was a surfer who used to shape his own boards for friends and locals in Laguna Beach, California. Stüssy began screening t-shirts and shorts to sell along with the surfboards as a form of promotion; his surname written in a graffiti- influenced hand style was to become the company logo. Stüssy inadvertently fell into the clothing business through his deep-rooted love of surfing, and in a few short years, people were talking within the small, insular world of surf and skateboarding in the late ‘80s. Shawn set up small showrooms in New York and California and hit the road, showing his designs to stores he respected. It has since gone on to become one of the most defining cult-respected brands in the history of streetwear.

Stüssy & Levi’s® collection launches worldwide today, November 10th and is exclusively available for purchase on levi.co.za.

CAMPAIGN CREDITS
Photography: Antosh Cimoszko
Model: Evan Clark

Press release courtesy of The Bread

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

VIVIERS, the South African fashion house, unveils their concept-driven fashion experience at South African Fashion Week (SAFW). With the debut of their SS24 fashion film ‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture,’ VIVIERS highlights their unwavering commitment to the South African fashion landscape and their larger vision of fostering a homegrown African fashion community and clothing industry.

Having emerged on the SAFW scene through the Fashion Bridges Program in April 2023, VIVIERS returns to SAFW, reinforcing their dedication to the local fashion industry and their aspiration to create a thriving African fashion community. This is not merely a showcase of garments; it’s a statement of purpose.

“Through a collective and creative hybrid space called ‘Hub-of-The-Hand,” VIVIERS collaborate with numerous South African Artisans, using South African raw material like Cape Wools, South African Mohair, Ostrich products, Gold and Diamonds and South African Leather, with the idea to further promote the South African clothing, textile and luxury Industry, as well as preserve South Africa’s heritage of craftsmanship. 

“Through visualisation and co-emergence, we aim to contribute and to establish South Africa as an Eco-Hub or destination for Supreme Craftsmanship in Luxury manufacturing; a country that leads with its slow and Conscious approach. Showcasing our collection not only on a global platform such as Milan but also within SAFW in Johannesburg is a pivotal element of our commitment to this initiative” said Lezanne Viviers, the creative director and founder of VIVIERS. “This also give me a unique opportunity to edit and change the styling of my collections to respond to future of these two different platforms, as every iteration opens up the collection to a different audience.”

Indeed, VIVIERS recently presented their artisanal capsule collection SS24 ‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture’ as part of the official Milan Fashion Week, marking their second live event in a year, following their digital debut in September 2022.

The SS24 fashion film, ‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture,’ serves as a unique canvas, offering a glimpse into the soul of VIVIERS’ SS24 collection. It’s not just a film; it’s a conceptual statement.

‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture ’– VIVIERS ’SS24 Fashion Film: was conceptualised by Lezanne Viviers and brought to life by her long-time friend and photographer, Eva Losada, ‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture’ is more than a fashion film; it’s an investigation into our collective history and shared Origin Stories. Exploring universal myths, legends, archaeological discoveries, astrology, visionary philosophy, and spiritual truths, the film is a patchwork of human experiences. From the Crystal Skulls to the Phoenix, from Plato’s ‘Allegory of the Cave’ to Baba Credo Mutwa’s thoughts on ancient Gold astronauts, VIVIERS contemplates the potential for transformation and cultural redefinition. The stories in the film transcend borders, cultures, and religions, acting as bridges between our quest for truth and the interplay between the physical and metaphysical realms. The film embodies a vision of art and clothing as conduits for unity, connecting our shared history with our vision of a harmonious future.

Lezanne Viviers sums it up beautifully, saying, “All-is-One. The idea of co-existence, co-emergence, symbiosis, and our shared Earthly Re-Birth: Unity in Individuality, rather than separation.” Indeed, VIVIERS chose to hold the release and premiere their fashion film at SAFW, as the audience has a very clear insight and understanding of the sacred African sites chosen as the location. It felt right to premiere it to a local audience and the local team that created it, before it gets broadcasted internationally, because of its cultural significance. The stage design of SAFW and technical screens also lends itself to screen the film, with a full captivating audience.

The film, directed by Eva Losada, offers a poetic, atmospheric, and surreal journey through fragmented narratives. It creates a visual and emotional experience, and Eva’s unique style is also evident in campaigns she has shot for VIVIERS.

The film was shot at two sacred sites – The Cradle of Humankind and Waterval Boven in South Africa. These sites were chosen for their cultural and spiritual significance in our shared origin stories. The Origin Center in Maropeng, The Cradle of Humankind, is one of South Africa’s nine World Heritage sites, housing archaeological treasures like Mrs. Ples, Little Foot, and Homo Naledi. Waterval Boven is the epicentre of South African Stone Circles and home to remarkable sites like Adam’s Calendar, aligning with the stars and Sacred Geometrical patterns. Alessandro Gigli, with his cinematic soundscape, draws inspiration from the resonance of rocks and ancient instruments. This soundscape transforms time into crystalline sounds and ancient memories into present-day experiences, creating an auditory journey into our past, present, and future.

‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture ’- VIVIERS ’SS24 Fashion Collection: The Unity of Past and Future. The collection conveys the ‘idea of unity in individuality,’ through VIVIERS’s inclusion of a very diverse cast, but also by the continues collaboration with many South African artisans and the continues use and inclusion of South African raw materials in the making of 100% South African made garments. This theme of unity in creation and collaboration is the core message of the film and the collection. VIVIERS’ SS24 Runway show at SAFW is a fusion of their artisanal collection showcased in Milan and their first ever ready-to-wear line. This collection is about more than fashion; it’s about accessibility and sustainability. Collaborations with Crystal Birch, Europa Art, and Cape Cobra reflect a commitment to responsible South African fibres and materials like Ostrich leather, Merino Wool, and Mohair. These materials create clothing that transcends time and blends beautifully, promoting responsible luxury raw materials from South Africa worldwide.

Crystal Birch’s hats are created in the same collaborative spirit and approach to working with local craftsmen championing local production for global locations. Preserving the art of millinery; while simultaneously re-introducing us to the inherent power that only the hat can hold for completing a look, Birch’s power lies in her rare ability to elevate hat-making as effortlessly contemporary. Cape Cobra Leather goods are a third-generation, South African-family run business, with a long legacy of manufacturing bags for luxury fashion houses around the world, using exceptional local artisans, gives Cape Cobra Leathercraft’s pieces their elegance and depth as heirloom investment pieces, investing in the heritage of the past, combined with meticulous moments spent in the present.

The overall runway aesthetic was slightly reimagined through the styling with more traditional styling, by including these heritage items that convey a message of an old-world heirloom house. The versatility in styling from Milan to South African, reiterates the message that VIVIERS items are long-term investment pieces, made with an approach of uncompromised quality. The collection’s palette and textures draw inspiration from the James Webb telescope’s images of galaxies, planets, and stars, contrasting with earthly elements like rocks, fossils, and crystals. The result is a collection that feels otherworldly, capturing the essence of our shared history and the
limitless potential for change.

‘Re-Trace, Re-Memory, Re-Set, Re-Culture’ is more than a fashion collection; it’s a journey through space-time and an exploration of unity. VIVIERS’ SS24 collection seeks to transcend traditional boundaries and celebrate the duality within each of us, reflecting a vision of harmony and inclusion. The film and collection are an ode to the power of clothing as art, a bridge connecting our past to the positive change VIVIER’s aspire to in the future. The vision of the brand is to bridge between communities that see themselves as mutually exclusive, by creating a manifesto where narratives meet in the raw form of the arts. VIVIERS facilitates an umbrella-like platform, where through the arts, for artisanal collaboration and architecture, creatives can challenge institutional norms through clothing.

VIVIERS CAMPAIGN CREDITS
Spring/Summer 2024

Photography: @eva.al.desnudo
Styling, Creative- and Art Direction: @lezanneviviers and @eva.al.desnudo
Styling Assistant: @chiara__galvani
Clothing: VIVIERS STUDIO
Jewellery: Signature VIVIERS jewellery, mixed with Lezanne Viviers xx James Barry
Slabbert sculpted pieces. @jamesbarryslabbert
Model Agencies: @myfriendned @boss
Models: @okmordecai, @Bethany.dewaal @macs_kmcd
Hair: @saadique
Make-Up: @alexandra_julliet_mua
Production: @Kirstyswiss
Production assistants: @anelka_poultney_ @thando.nyweba
Videography: @thulanisejo @kaykayribane
Lighting Assistant: @Odd_ic
Drone ops: @Dzagzin_productions
Location: Maropeng Sterkfontein Caves and Watervalboven Stone Circles
@maropengsa
Artisans: @Wraptknitwear @stephanie.bentum.textiles @nutcase_acts @bunnycorp
Sponsors and Support: @capewools @mohairsouthafrica
Samil, African Expressions yarn: @samil_natural_fibres
KRONE:@kronecapclassique
Maropeng, Sterkfontein @maropengsa

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za