Before we enter the millennium, I would like to take this brief intermission to discuss the reason why, despite stylists being so obviously involved in fashion’s evolution, they might have been ‘kept a secret’? It’s called Hollywood, baby. When entertainment was first being conceived, the notion of films, TV and music being a kind of fantastical escape was an entirely new construct. This democratisation of entertainment hinged on the idea that any good production or product must appear to the masses as if made of magic. As Rachel Zoe wrote for The Hollywood Report, “being a stylist used to be a very behind-the-scenes job, not really talked about. Now celebrities are advocates for their team. They post pictures of their stylist, hair and makeup people nearly every time they get ready and credit them on Instagram. That was unheard of a decade ago. I wouldn’t even do an interview about my clients without permission from them. It was much more secretive. If we took pictures on Oscar night or premiere day, it was for our eyes only.”
This era of secrecy was intended to lend an air of mystery to the exaltation of celebrity culture, Hollywood, and as a consequence – fashion. Though, eventually the road led to the bolstering of a mainstream recognition for fashion image-making as a production; and the charge was in fact, by most accounts, led by Rachel Zoe, who launched her show ‘The Rachel Zoe Project’ to a 2000s audience of fashion-obsessed, initiating one of the first ‘behind the scenes’ into what styling (specifically, celebrity) truly was.
As is true for almost anything in the 21st century, the role of the stylist has been irrevocably shaped by social media. In the 2000s, 2010s and now in the 2020s, social media apps like Instagram and Twitter gave voice to stylists (and all creatives in fashion) to carve their own personas, through phone screens and desktops. There are very few secrets today, and as fashion audiences, we have greater access to details and behind-the-scenes than was ever possible before. Today, we can check the profiles of our favourite stylists to be directly updated with their work – whether it’s red-carpet or editorial, personal or branded. As Karla Welch explains in her episode on The Cutting Room Floor (in my opinion, the greatest fashion podcast that exists), “stylists today are power-brokers”, responsible for shaping and maintaining the public image of their clients, which could lead to deals with brands and greater opportunities. Karla reveals that as a leading stylist, she will cut a percentage from brokering a deal between one of her clients and a brand. For example, Hailey Bieber’s long standing partnership with YSL. This episode is key in understanding some of the ‘process’ involved in this new and lucrative era of styling, along with Law Roach’s episode on CRF, in which he explains that this collaboration with Zendaya was part of elevating her, ultimately leading to advancements in her career and credibility, and in turn, is own career. Image is everything, and to be an image architect is synonymous with the repertoire of a stylist.
Stylists are indispensable for the fashion’s hand in cultural expression. Locally, we can think of legends like Bee Diamonhead, Amy Zama and Chloe Andrea Welgemoed – who each have carved South Africa’s current sartorial vision, in the context of our industry’s moves and country’s references. Being a stylist is to be a translator between visions held by photographers, designers and directors – that is born into a language understood through our eyes and emotions. Here’s to a fashion future in which the role of the stylist, and the instructable amount of work that goes into the job, is celebrated and respected.
Fashion doesn’t happen in a vacuum, darling – but you’re definitely going to need a steamer.
Learn more from fashion podcasts, for your pleasure:
The Cutting Room Floor by Recho Omondi
Articles of Interest by Avery Trufelman
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