The Art of Archiving with Risograph Publisher ‘Dream Press’

There is a studio in Woodstock that feels like stepping into the chapter of your favourite book. One wall is lined with stacked papers in different colours; the other is lined with printing machines, and shelves boast delicately placed zines and books. In the centre of the studio there might be a carefully laid out line up of pages, ready to be bound and fully materialised by an artist or author, in collaboration with the studio. This space, Dream Press, is a site of preservation; it is an independent printer, risograph publisher and a space where dreams, quite literally, are made. With a nostalgic essence to it, there is also a determination for the new – new ideas, writings, illustrations and ways of forging creativity into something directly tangible. Dream Press is in the business of treasures and keepsakes, of archiving and creating. I think their space is one of the most important in the city, especially in a world that is digitising at warp-speed; where our engagement with words and visuals seem to always be pixelated on screens. 

Box Making for Faith47

Testing riso printing for DUST by Atong Atem

Studio Shot of DP

“I studied at Michaelis and graduated in 2010. My background was in sculpture and installation. I always liked the facility of different materials and how to make them work together. Leaving Michaelis, I learned that the possibilities are limited for sculpture and installation in the South African art industry, unless you’re doing bronze. I went on to work at a gallery as a co-curator and that was really eye-opening – it showed me that I really loved working with artists and realising their dreams.” says CJ, founder of Dream Press. After becoming quite jaded with the commercial mechanisations of the art industry, CJ took the plunge at leaving, with no clue what she might do thereafter, “my opinion has always been that if you don’t create a space to figure out what you need to, it’s not just going to land in your lap. When I left all I knew was that I wanted to continue working with artists. During this time, I fell in love with making books. I started teaching myself InDesign and went to Friends of Design night courses. I started making catalogues for creatives and approaching graduates and artists. I got frustrated at a certain point that my skill set for creating books was actually quite amateur and that the best way I could develop was to learn how a book is made in the traditional sense. There is so much that designers are not taught.” This juncture would lead CJ to second-generation book binding space in Woodstock, The Book Binding Company. On this, CJ says “it was run by Mr Woods and his son Regan Woods. I wiggled my way into being an apprentice with them and learned the craft in the very old way of apprenticeship. When I felt I had learned enough of their traditional leather-binding and reports, I started to explore other experimental ways of making books.” It was around this time that CJ started to envision the idea of starting a business in the realm of book-binding. Born out of the experience of digital fatigue, CJ knew that a method within the business had to lend itself to an analogue way of working. Ultimately, it led to CJ finding risograph printing – the methodological jewel from which Dream Press now emanates.

CJ in Studio.

Dream Team in Studio.

Risograph printing is a unique and versatile printing method that combines elements of screen printing and photocopying. It uses a specialised digital duplicator, known as a Risograph, to produce high-quality prints with vibrant colours and textures. This process involves creating a master stencil, which is then inked and pressed onto the desired printing surface, resulting in distinct, layered, and slightly imperfect prints that have a distinctively tactile and handmade aesthetic. It harkens back to the DIY and zine-style emergence of printing methods in the late 20th century. As CJ explains, “I was lucky to find risograph as a practice at the beginning of its second boom in the mid 2010s. It was first developed in the 1980s in Japan, so the revival naturally fits into this era of nostalgia that I think we are all experiencing. I approached a few of the handful of studios around the world and received so much support on technique, colour and printers from them. I then set up in a little corner of Black River Studio, whose founder and silkscreen master Wim Legrand, has been an amazing mentor to me.” CJ officially opened Dream Press in 2017 by herself and with her risograph, diving into the world of zines and book making. The risograph lent itself to a new vibrancy in Dream Press’ trajectories, as well as for CJ’s path as an artist, book-binder and publisher. 

In the beginning of 2018, just six months into Dream Press’ opening, CJ was diagnosed with Hodgkin’s Lymphoma, a type of cancer that affects the lymphatic system. CJ explains, “I had to close down and go through chemo and radiation. I was basically in an isolated way before COVID arrived. That experience took me all the way to the end of 2019, and I’m in complete remission now. Then I was open for another six months, and then it was lock-down. So it’s been a little bit of a rough ride in the beginning! I’m actually still surprised that we are thriving because it was really tough. I had a lot of pressure on myself.” In between these experiences, CJ’s commitment to her craft and the proliferation of the tangible has not only endured, but strengthened. CJ is an artist in the very core of herbeing and the commitment of a printing-press like Dream Press has brought into Cape Town, the country and the world – the subtle magic of printing as a cultural heirloom of human beings. CJ explains, “I had my first full-time intern, an amazing Austrian foreign-student named Julia Schimautz. She left me after a year and a bit and has opened up her own riso-studio in Berlin. Now, I employed two full-time assistants – Mac and Candice – which I never thought I would do. Since then it’s been one month at a time, one foot after the other and some mistakes in between.”

THE OBJECT by Sean O’Toole, Landwalks Across Palestine and Africa & 4CNRS by Visule Kabunda.

Photgraphic book by Johno Mellish.

CJ’s passion is so vivid, and as she speaks of the vision of her business, CJ’s emotional quality feels as transferable as the ink onto paper in their riso printer, “Dream Press is fueled by my ultimate passion for materiality. It has never been a vision for making a lot of money. Our aim has always been to sustain ourselves and to take on jobs that can afford us capital to reinvest in the printing community. We do a lot of collaborations with artists on credit and we encourage the kind of culture where a part of an artist’s craft and voice can be understood through zines and books that can travel far further than the normal gallery. Those little moments into people’s crafts and thoughts are like snippets of their souls. Dream Press is about documenting this time and space and I think that’s what is so precious about books and zines.” As CJ describes it, that language of print has been somewhat stunted in South Africa as the primary reason for books in the art industry here, are the catalogues solely intended to sell artist’s works and collections. As risograph printing is such a niche discipline, CJ has found that each client or artist requires the same focus and attention. Dream Press brings people into a novel way of working. Running workshops is part of their yearly focus, and are now at a point where they can open one spot that is completely free, to which students or lower-income people can apply. As CJ says, “we really invite people to think out of the box and to imagine ways in which their books can be. I think our strength is how we are able to hold space for that. We love to work with artists to develop ideas and digest art in unusual and interesting ways.” One of Dream Press’ milestones has been their collaboration with the Norval Foundation for ‘Zine Space’ which ran in 2021 and 2022, for a four-week zine-developing workshop. Through these conceptualisations and actioning of tangible methods for artists, CJ has found that Dream Press is only at the beginning of what is possible in this very critical, archival realm of artistic expression. 

To end off, I tell CJ of my own self-described ‘badly made zines’, to which she says, “there is absolutely no such thing as a bad zine!” and if anything can tell you about the earnest dedication of Dream Press; let it be that. Viva Dream Press.

Written by:  Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Premier African Skateboarding Company ‘WAFFLESNCREAM’ Collaborates with Photographer Assante Chiweshe

In honour of women’s month earlier this year, waf. (WAFFLESNCREAM) have released their eagerly awaited ‘waf. Babes’ capsule. The basis for the construction of the capsule was the lack of institutional and social support for femme and marginalised skaters, which we observed and were made aware of by marginalised skaters in the community. 

We decided to take a step further and actively spread the message of equity and inclusion across national borders by inviting South African fashion photographer, Assante Chiweshe, to interpret the ethos of waf. Babes via her lens. This visual communication between waf. and South Africa further builds upon the synergy being formed between both cultures through a shared love of skate culture and streetwear. 

The capsule seeks to be an extension of our practice of equity.

As discussed with Bubblegum Club circa November 2022, waf. wrote: 

When thinking about social inclusion, it is important to remember that we are starting from a point of inequity. Skateboarding programs for marginalised groups have numerous physical, social, and psychological challenges that significantly compromise their participation. To acknowledge this, waf. now includes a female-skaters category in all skate jams and intends to include more marginalised gender groups going forward. During their most recent Go-Skate Day celebration, Nigerian Female Skater, Abimsola Naiwo, emerged [as] the winner of the female-skaters section. 

In reaction to inequality, we have launched a number of other initiatives and projects to broaden the diversity of the Nigerian skateboarding scene. Initiatives such as the waf. and Dencity annual Skate jam. Events like the skate jam offer incentive and visibility by offering prizes and awards that support and inspire female and queer skaters. 

The capsule is yet another block being added to our building efforts to ensure total inclusion in the skate community regardless of wherever you fit on the spectrum. It includes t-shirts featuring a design of Phylis Wheatley, the first African American author to publish a poetry book in 1773, as well as skorts, crop tops, jumpsuits, and cargo pants. We aim to encourage diversity both within and beyond the waf. community by empowering other female and minority skaters with this body of work.

About waf. 

WAFFLESNCREAM is West Africa’s premier skateboarding company, expressing African skate culture and building community through sports, fashion, music and art. Established in 2012, the company champions skateboarding culture in Nigeria, fostering young talents and serving as a hub for the local skateboarding community. 

Press release courtesy of WAFFLESNCREAM

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Just Dwayne releases ‘The Man & The Earth’ on Kiko Navarro’s rising Afroterraneo label

The latest offering from Kiko Navarro’s rising ‘Afroterraneo’ imprint, ‘The Man & The Earth’ is a soul-stirring and percussive Afro-Latin House cut from Spanish artist, Just Dwayne. 

Born and raised between Barcelona and Ibiza, P. Gonzalez a.k.a Just Dwayne has been at the top of his field for more than 25 years, playing from Europe to Latin America. 
Dwayne has shared a line up with the finest DJs the world has to offer: Dave Seaman, Roger Sanchez, Armin Van Buuren, Sandy Rivera, Harry “Choo Choo” Romero and Cesar de Melero, to name a few. His most recent gigs in Ibiza were at Ocean Beach & Ushuaïa. 

After 12 years living in Costa Rica’s jungle, Dwayne is back in Spain to unveil this stunning track, where he reveals his deep connection to nature, the spiritual, and of course the dance floor. The song is inspired by an old 80’s weekly series in Spain titled ‘El Hombre y La Tierra’, which was dedicated to nature, and the relationship between man and animals, driving and flying throughout the different continents of the world.

Stream ‘The Man & The Earth’ HERE

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

MÜNYA releases debut EP ‘I’m I’m Lying, I’m Flying’ – a sonic letter to the truth filled with punk Instrumentals

“I once was told a lie and then another. Then another. Why was it so easy to lie to me? Was it because it was apparent I was lying to myself? No drug can get me as high as a lie. If I’m lying, I’m flying.” 

Love made a cliche of me. “If I’m Lying, I’m Flying” is my debut EP chronicling a tumultuous time in my young life dealing with the grief of my mother’s passing and the end of a romantic relationship. Years of wonder and contemplation brought me closer to the essence of who I am, a vulnerable storyteller. 

I am MÜNYA. Born in Lusaka, Zambia, raised in Gaborone, Botswana and based in Cape Town, South Africa. My sound is an ode to my environment and the plethora of global cultural movements that continue to influence my perspective on life. 

The four-track/eight minute long EP consists of hard-hitting punk instrumentals juxtaposed with the sweet sounds of loved ones offering guidance and strength amid the chaos. “If I’m Lying, I’m Flying” doesn’t shy away from what it is. Nor does it try to be anything else out right now. It is a one-of-one.

Stream ‘If I’m Lying, I’m Flying’ HERE

Follow MÜNYA HERE

Text by MÜNYA

Afro-house legend Da Capo announces his upcoming Dance EP ‘BAKONE’ with pre-track ‘Molili’

Da Capo, a trailblazer in the Afro-House music genre, hailing from Seshego, Limpopo South Africa, has become a global sensation in the dance music scene. This multi-award-winning DJ and producer continually pushes the boundaries of the genre with his distinctive and captivating sense of groove, mesmerizing melodies, and ability to breathe new life into songs through his remixes, which have garnered him many accolades.

“Bakone,” which means “People from the North” in Sepedi (northern Sotho), Da Capo’s latest work pays homage to his roots. This highly anticipated EP serves as a preview to his upcoming full album which is set to be released in late 2023. With a focus on the future of Afrotech, Bakone exudes power and is crafted for club enthusiasts. The EP features carefully selected hidden gems from DaCapo’s repertoire and includes collaborations with renowned artists such as Batundi, Nana Attah, Lokau Kanza, and Da Africa Deep. For Da Capo, this EP marks the commencement of an extensive global tour, further solidifying his impact on the music industry across continents.

Kicking off the EP is the pre-add track, “Molili” out now. Initially conceived by Da Capo and Batundi, the song took shape with Lokau Kanza’s captivating hook. To infuse an authentic African essence, Da Capo and Batundi enlisted the talents of Nana Attah, whose stellar performance and poignant lyrics gave the track a whole new depth and meaning.

Stream Molili the pre-add track to ‘BAKONE’ HERE

Follow Da Capo:

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Youtube

Press release courtesy of Sheila Afari PR

DJ, Producer, and Activist CHMBA releases her EP ‘Okangola Caucus’

From the tender age of 7, Chmba (Chmba Ellen Chilemba) has been on a mission to fuse the funkiest afro sounds, future beats, and house grooves. Drawing inspiration from her Pan-African roots and a deep sense of sonic motherhood, she creates infectious Afro-electronic, indie, and house alternative sounds, infused with time-traveling synths, fiery strings, and African percussive rhythms.

CHMBA’s latest EP Okongola Caucus, could translate to, “a gathering of beauty”, is an exploration of love in all its forms from romance to parental, desire and distance in love untangling, freedom and barriers to love overlapping.

CHMBA describes the EP track by track:

Track 1, Okongola 
Okongola is romance all swagged out with a timeless, hypnotizing synth arp taking you on an electric journey yet still grounded in Afro-energy with bassdrums teasing amapiano vibes. NiGEL on vocals takes you between worlds, maybe a night out in Malawi and maybe also space, Malawi in space? Chmba carefully and somewhat carelessly blends two beautiful genres to make a unique vibe of an afro-electronic future indie energy, you want to dance or go on a drive.

Track 2, Patali
Patali is a sweet cry to get past the boundaries we build when falling… An interaction of heavy basses and drums, with some sweet chords and synths flirting. It’s a trip, Chmba takes stage with her vocals central, with multiple backings, the dream is a live stage that feels somewhere isolated, randomly placed but safe for one to fully evoke falling for someone. Electronic in its feel, with South-East African percussion shying out.

Track 3, Nitemwe ft. Nyago
Nitemwe features Malawi’s Afro spiritual soul music legend, Nyago, taking us on a soul refueling groovy journey… a house dancy beat tempting you into motion, but also deep vocals almost meditative like a call for absolute  inner peace. Nitemwe meaning love me, is an expression of a pure love with no strings attached.

Track 4, Dzuwa ft. Ms Fay
Dzuwa is love in motion, love found and up high. Heated, Dzuwa meaning sun, Ms Fay journeys on a confession of the heart comparing love found to the warmth of the sun. Chmba on the beat, toys with a future soul vibe, with a kick led by a spliced N’goma drum! The synths and keys are groovy, allowing a poetic flow.

About Ms Fay:
Ms Fay is a Malawian singer-songwriter. Her writing draws around love, romance and self-positivity… this is felt through her warm sweet vocals to bring an exotic and charming flair to melodies. Ms Fay defines her music as afro-contemporary, she is versatile, ready to flow through varied sonic compositions or genres.

About Nyago:
Nyago is a singer-songwriter from Malawi. Her story of survival permeates through her deep, beautiful, lustrous voice and enchanting melodies. It is that of a strong and determined young woman who has lived through and overcome unspeakable tragedies. Nyago defines her music as Afro-Spiritual; a fusion drawing from the enchanting rhythms and melodies of the Northern Malawian healing tradition of vimbuza and elements of jazz, soul and folk.

Chmba‘s raw talent and unapologetic style have caught the attention of the Queen of Pop herself, Madonna, who has invited Chmba to play at her exclusive A-list celebrity parties, including the prestigious Oscars’ The Party in Beverly Hills, California. As Glamour Magazine’s Woman of the Year (2017) Chmba has rocked impressive stages across the globe, including the World Economic Forum in Davos, BBC Radio 6, and Tumbler Select Playlist. She’s also opened for Grammy-winning artists like Angelique Kidjo, Nile Rodgers, Metro Boomin, and Laura Mvula, cementing her status as a true trailblazer in the music industry.

Chmba is more than just a talented artist – she’s also a dedicated activist and founder of Tiwale, a community center in Malawi that supports women and gender minorities through art and educational opportunities. Her inspiring work has earned her a spot on Forbes’ Africa 30 Under 30 list, as well as recognition from the Bill and Melinda Gates Foundation and Global Citizen as a Youth Advocate. Chmba‘s unique sound, magnetic energy, and commitment to social change make her a force to be reckoned with, both on and off the stage.

For the month of June, CHMBA is the first Malawian to be featured as a cover star on Apple Music’s Dance Playlist ISGUBHU, which sees her placed among the top DJ producer talent on the continent.

Nitemwe Nyago

Nigel

Stream ‘Okangola Caucus’ HERE

Follow CHMBA:
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Youtube 
Facebook
Tik-Tok
Website

Press release courtesy of Sheila Afari PR

Chapter 17 | Six of the best shows at Paris Menswear Fashion Week SS24

Time is just a construct. How are we here again, with fashion season upon us once again? It’s summer in Europe, and Paris Fashion Week just hosted their menswear showcases. In a very socio-culturally reflective way, ‘menswear’ doesn’t necessarily mean that brands are strictly showing masculine clothing or male models; in fact, most brands are offering a gender-fluid assortment down the runway. This makes all the business-prudency-sense considering that IF a brand is selected by the committee to showcase, the fees to produce a show and secure a slot range from anywhere between €180,000 to €1 million – although I suspect some of our smaller, favourite brands can pull it off for much less. Paris Fashion Week hosts some of the best infrastructure in the world, with both its historical significance as the ‘birthplace of fashion’ as we know it today, alongside some of the most incredible venues, systems and companies that focus all-year to transporting, planning, building and staging fashion week’s biannual showcases. The calendar is set by Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode for Spring/Summer and Autumn/Winter, in collaboration with their counterparts in Milan, London and now Copenhagen – in order to forgo as little overlap as possible.

It’s terribly difficult to reduce the events of Paris Fashion Week into a small-host of shows – but, it must be done, lest we be burdened with visual and aesthetic fatigue. Unless of course it’s anything by Cris Fragkou, who keeps us fully immersed during fashion weeks and has offered use of some of her images below for Dazed Digital, which are standout for Rick Owens, Dior and Junya Watanabe. You can read our most recent conversations with her here. For Chapter 17 (our seventeenth month!) of Interlude, I’ve selected but a *taste* of old favourites to pique your interest as concisely as possible!

Wales Bonner

At one point last year, it was touted that Grace Wales Bonner might be appointed at the helm of Louis Vuitton’s menswear division. Although that was not so, her label Wales Bonner continues to be one of the most contemporarily articulate expressions of menswear in luxury fashion. As an alumni of Central Saint Martins, a recipient of the 2016 LVMH Prize For Young Designers, 2021 CFDA Award for International Men’s Designer and more – Grace utilises her label as an ode to her Afro-Jamaican and British roots, delivering each time an incredible demonstration of the shared sartorial sensibilities of her formative cultures. Her showcase for Paris SS/24 was no exception, with the show titled ‘Marathon’ displaying Wales Bonner’s continued collaboration with adidas Originals and her dedication to the quiet, clean expression of sport-as-inspiration. The show featured Ethiopian long-distance runners Yomif Kejelcha Atomsa and Tamirat Tola as models, and Luke Leitch reported the show notes reading as, “an ode to long journeys and life missions. A celebration of soulful pursuits and inspired movement.” As ever, Wales Bonner showcases the tracksuit as a decidedly important garment; and the show served as a subtle mapping of the legacies between Jamaica and Ethiopia’s diaspora as critical to Britain’s heritage.

Images by Daniele Oberrauch for GoRunway.com

Rick Owens 

Rick Owens is unique among designers in that his followers – in a cult-like manner – refer to themselves as the ‘Tribe’ and are some of fashion’s most loyal clients. A collective sigh might have been released, as Rick’s latest show marked his return from the annals of using colour (shock, horror and wild if you know Rick’s preferred colour is black) – their leader it seems is back from his acid trip, and landed safely in the dingy corner of a grimy techno club. Right where he belongs, where he thrives and where we love him best. Rick’s brutalist, gothic inclinations as the Sith Lord of Fashion were on full display; premiering his latest footwear form, a medical-boot sandal. While it’s not my favourite, it is a reminder of Rick’s sense of humour and purity, even as he continues to merge some of the most morbid articulations of fashion with exquisite tailoring. His alleged boyfriend and definite muse (he and Michèle have an understanding) Tyrone Dylan Susman opened the show, as chiselled as ever and what followed was proportion and manipulation in the silhouettes and the word ‘CUNT’ emblazoned on key pieces. Rick is no enfant terrible (reportedly one of the kindest designers around) but his edge never seems to fade, either.

Images by Cris Fragkou for Dazed Digital

Junya Watanabe 

Unconventionality reigns in Junya Watanabe’s world. As the prodigy of Rei Kawakubo, having risen the ranks through Commes de Garçon, Junya fervently and discreetly continues his independent pathway as a master of deconstruction and asymmetry. Ever inspired by punk-aesthetics and lore, this showcase was a master class in the strange surrealism of DIY culture. The show featured a record-breaking 18 moments of direct collaboration with other brands including New Balance, Brooks Brothers, C.P Company, Gregory, Lousy Livin, MXDVS, Bates, Alpha Industries, Baracuta, Oakley Factory, Patta, Reigning Champ, Maison Kitsune, and Mackintosh. Patches featuring streetwear cult-classics like PALACE adorned workwear jackets, STÜSSY appeared once – all the while construction feat after feat emerged, such as a belt-buckles used as scaffolding for a tunic, or hexagonal denim patchworks. Highly regarded as an expert in his technical abilities and craftsmanship, Junya remains one of the all-time stars of Japanese sartorial consciousness.

Images by Cris Fragkou for Dazed Digital

Dior 

Kim Jones marked his fifth-anniversary at Dior with a show stopping entrance. Models arose out of elevator-trap doors, giving the audience the entire collection in a matter of minutes. Once the models got moving, the sharpness of Kim’s tailoring was apparent; with accessories by his long-time collaborator, milliner Stephen Jones’ Chinese ‘ronghua’ hats and accessories by Yoon Ambush, jewellery designer for Dior Homme. Socks and sandals offset the tunic-style coats and tailored suits, with injections of neon amidst the demure palette. Embellishment is a key part of Kim Jones’ signature at Dior, and this show was no exception. The collection was a nod to the Blitz Kids / New Wave club scene of the 80s, as Kim told Vogue, “There is an underlying sense of the New Wave in the collection. Stephen was one of those Blitz Kids that were seen as so much part of that. It was also an exciting time for Paris nightlife, where different social groups were hanging out together.”

Images by Cris Fragkou for Dazed Digital

The Row

One thing about me? I will forever kneel at the altar of the Olsen Twins. Ever on their own buzz, The Row’s unisex SS24 collection was launched as a lookbook on their website instead of a runway in Paris. We love efficiency. I don’t have to tell you that The Row never falters on their tailoring (their namesake is taken from Savile Row, the historic tailoring street in London) or that their approach to fashion is ‘quiet luxury’ personified. This season, however, cut a far more relaxed approach than usual. Dare I say, casual? For the twin-sister duo, their pivot into fashion has been the best decision they ever made. The Row has consistently shown an innate and intuitive design reflex, and this season seemed to be a direct commitment to their audience that it really has never been about showmanship, but rather craftsmanship – and they don’t need a runway to flex that.

Images courtesy of The Row

Loewe 

Jonathan Anderson is a silly-goofy guy when he designs for his eponymous label (always intelligently so) but when it comes to Loewe, he reigns as much as possible. Still, the playfulness of glitter fabrics set against billowing tailoring was fun, but not as fun as the few moments when giant needs were pinned into key garments. This, it seems, is a personal message by Jonathan (as he usually leaves in his collections) on his understanding of construction as ongoing, developmental and curatorial. Loewe SS24 was a relaxed, romantic expression of the label and of Jonathan’s place in fashion right now. Shy and ever-concerned, we love JW, always.

Images by Isidore Montag for GoRunway.com

Written by: Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Vans Took Over Pont Alexandre III to Introduce OTW by Vans During Paris Men’s Fashion Week

During Paris Men’s Fashion Week, Vans hosted a sprawling party on the Seine at Pont Alexandre III, set to the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower, to celebrate the introduction of it’s new pinnacle category, OTW by Vans, a new vision for the most elevated product expressions and brand experiences from the brand. Conceived under the direction of Ian Ginoza, Vice President, Creative Direction for Pinnacle.

“We chose to introduce OTW by Vans in Paris, the global style capital with a deep history and community in skateboarding,” explains Ian Ginoza. “Skateboarding’s influence on the style and fashion conversation is organically going on every day and we’re here on the banks of the Seine, with the world’s best skateboarders, to bring the inspiration of mood boards and runways to the people of Paris and beyond.”

As the sun began to set, the style and skateboarding communities descended upon the banks of the Seine at Pont Alexandre III to witness a monumental skate installation—created in partnership with Unitedfront, PLAYLAB, INC., the Los Angeles-based creative studio known for its work in art, architecture, and graphic design, as well as long-time partner California Skateparks—and performance by King Krule. At the center of the experience was a monumental skate installation that makes a striking visual statement in concert with the Parisian architectural landscape. The primary visual icon of Vans’ past and present—its iconic checkerboard—is mapped onto a vast form: a skateable sculpture park displayed on a giant plinth.

BFA Images by Natalia Ivanova

Images by Natalia Ivanova

Exhibition by Atiba & Axel Cruysberghs Front Blunt Day 1

Blended into the structure were contemporary interpretations of classic skateboarding features like the spine, hubba and wallride; acrylic ramps that allow a view to interior structures; and 14 CCTV cameras that document skate throughout the week and livestream the footage on LED screens embedded in the installation. “Together with OTW by Vans, we wanted to create a grand gesture in a public space—one that marks the future of the brand and unites all the elements of creative and skate culture that we love, boldly and unapologetically,” says Archie Lee Coates IV, Co-Founder, PLAYLAB, INC.

Guests included Lourdes Leon, Amelia Gray Hamlin, Fai Khadra, Bakar, Evan Mock, Sam Worthington, Lara Worthington, Haider Ackermann, Elizabeth Von Guttman, Okay Kaya, Stéphane Bak, Tommy Ton, Lev Tanju & Gareth Skewis, Travis ‘Taco’ Bennett, Devyn Garcia, Mae Mei Lapres, Alexia Elkaim, Sabrina Fuentes, Shane Gonzales, Jordan Vickors, Sonny Hall, Dexter Navy, Ian Ginoza, Matt George, Archie Lee Coates IV, Jeff Franklin, and more.

Images by David Ctorza

Images by Natalia Ivanova

Images by David Ctorza

Attendees watched the Vans Skateboarding Team, including Beatrice Domond, Etienne Gagne, Rowan Zorilla, Lizzie Armanto, Mami Tezuka, and Zion Wright, Diego Todd, and Axel Cruysberghs skate the OTW by Vans skate installation, set to the backdrop of the Eiffel Tower and the music by Onyx Collective. Later in the evening, King Krule took to the stage and closed out the night, while Parisian passersby gathered on the bridge.

The OTW by Vans Skate Installation hosted a calendar of on-site events and programming, including an open skate session from 12PM to 8PM CEST on Friday, June 23, followed by an after party and DJ set curated by Donavan’s Sound Club. On Saturday, June 24 open skate sessions continued from 12PM to 8PM CEST with a DJ set by Rory Milanes, and curated by Rinse.

Mami Tezuka by Atiba Jefferson
Rory Milanes, Diego Todd & Tom Belot by David Ctorza

Etienne Gagne & Axel Cruysberghs by David Ctorza
Lizzie Armanto by Natalia Ivanonva

Following the three day installation, OTW by Vans in partnership with California Skateparks will give back to the French skate community by donating elements of the skate installation to Cosanostra Skatepark.

For more news, follow @OTWbyVans 

Press release courtesy of The Bread

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Shein’s Influencer PR Trip Has Enraged The Internet

One thing about consumers – we are sharpening up. No longer fooled by the artful deception of fast fashion, we are demanding much more from corporate companies that continue to contribute heavily to climate change and human rights abuses. Among these companies, SHEIN stands out as the most villainous and contested. A fast-fashion retailer in China, SHEIN has a number of L’s to their name; labour abuses, intellectual property infringement, strenuous environmental impacts and lack of transparency in their supply chain. While they’re certainly not the only culprits in the vast web of the fashion industry’s rampant misconduct; they are behemothic in comparison to their competitors, with their production output making Zara and H&M look like bespoke boutiques in contrast. According to research done by market analysts, SHEIN launches around 9000 new products a day, and hosts around 600,000 items of disposable clothing on their site at any given time. To achieve this, and keep their costs exceedingly low (some pieces sell for as low as $3), there is literally no way that vast, systemic exploitation does not feature within their supply chain. Consumers have been sceptical for a long time, and SHEIN has been relegated to a kind of curse word in fashion. 

So, when last week influencers reported to their audiences from a PR trip paid for by SHEIN in China, the internet was up in FLAMES. In now deleted TikTok videos, a number of influencers walked through a perfectly curated factory facility, known as SHEIN’s ‘Innovation Centre’ offering their seemingly ‘scripted’ perspective to audiences as to what they saw. In what is clearly a SHEIN sampling factory, their ignorance of the multiple manufacturers a company like SHEIN has to outsource to was notwithstanding; let alone the fact that this being a paid trip is inherently unethical, and they would be contractually obliged to present a curated and positive portrait of the trip. One of the influencers who has received a lot of the heat, and doubled down on her sentiments many times, is Dani Carbinaro implied that the ‘west’ has spread propaganda about SHEIN; contrary to the fact that criticism of SHEIN has come from people in China and across the world. Dani refers to herself in the video as an ‘investigative journalist’ as Insider reports, The Los Angeles-based creator, who has nearly 500,000 followers on the platform, said that the Shein handlers who guided her on the trip allowed her to interview a woman working at the centre who answered “honestly” about the “rumours” surrounding its working conditions at Shein. While Carbonari didn’t specify what rumours the woman was referring to, the brand has been widely and publicly scrutinised over its poor labour practices and lack of transparency over the years.” You can watch here for a reload of one of Dani’s videos. Another comment that left audiences in disbelief was Destene Sudduth’s comment that, “they weren’t even sweating, we were the ones sweating walking through the whole facility” – implying it can’t be a sweatshop. I mean, I don’t even know what to say to this level of ignorance.

Courtesy of BOF

The Shein Influencer Trip attendees Destene Sudduth, Kenya Freeman, Aujené, Dani DMC, Marina Saavedra, and Fernanda Campuzano. 
Credit: Mashable Composite: Shein, Panos Pictures / Public Eye

Everybody wants to get paid and influencers with questionable brand deals is no big news, but the level of ignorance and malignant mistruths that these influencers presented to their followers (who trust them and value their expression as influencers) is offensive.The backlash has been intense and potentially their reputations ruined – at least for now. SHEIN is going to stop at nothing to try and deflect any ill-practices ascribed to them, and are going to play on the vulnerability of influencers. Its not surprising that the five influencers ranged from Black and Women of Colour and plus size women; all marginalised women. If there are any misconceptions about SHEIN and their attempts at transparency were honest, they would invite actual journalists to visit multiple parts of their supply chain – instead of like when two journalists from UK’s Channel 4 went undercover in two Guangzhou factories, as described by The Cut,In one factory, Channel 4 found that workers receive a base salary of 4,000 yuan per month — roughly $556 — to make 500 pieces of clothing per day and that their first month’s pay is withheld from them; in another factory, workers received the equivalent of four cents per item. Workers in both factories were working up to 18-hour days and were given only one day off a month. In one factory, the outlet found women washing their hair during lunch breaks, and workers were penalised two-thirds of their daily wage if they made a mistake on a clothing item.” These findings violate China’s own labour laws. 

If anything is to be taken from this story, it’s that the backlash from audiences on social media is truly hopeful. SHEIN cannot deny the disaster this has been, and the message has been received: we see you and we are tired. We are no longer buying into ethically-oriented platitudes – and this might just be our world’s saving grace, if corporations can act quickly and genuinely enough.

Featured image courtesy of  WWD

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‘Don’t’ Worry, Be Happy’ – why toxic positivity can be a hindrance to living an authentic life

Picture this – or maybe you don’t have to given the unruly times we’re living in –  your life is in shambles. You know kinda like those off seasons, the ones Ms Lana Del Rey refers to as the ‘winter of my life’? The ones where you feel like you simply just can’t seem to catch a break, not even to catch your breath. You are thoroughly going through it! And at every damn dawn, every turn, every attempt ziyakhala

*let’s out the loudest scream* 

So like the sensible young G that you are, you decide “noh man lemme call my chom’ just to blow off some steam, you know”  – after all you can’t keep all that bottled up right? Stress is a slow killer they say. It’s also bad for your skin, hair, nails and gut and yes, I know these are all very vain side effects to focus on considering there’s the very serious connections found between strokes, heart attacks and depression, as stated by heart.org which highlights the effects of stress on the physical body. A girl is just trying not to look like her problems right, what about my sdima dammit?With all that said, you finally get a hold of your good homie who in comparison to you, is straight cruising through life  – your yoga and daily mantra queen. Perhaps some of that love and light may rub off on you, but perhaps not? At least until you are slapped with yet another regurgitation of an insta post type of advice, You know my friend, just focus on the positive, when life hands you lemons you must make lemonade’ No Clarissa! No!

Madison Oren, Unsplash

Nathan Dumlao, Unsplash

What I need is a bottle of tequila gold neat, for every lemon life chooses to throw at me! Hao! I don’t know about you but personally, I’m so over this ‘don’t worry be happy’ mentality people keep trying to garnish over every damn problem that occurs. Some shit needs concern…and sometimes a hell of a lot of it. ‘Chin up’, ‘brush it off’,’everything happens for a reason’ residents of the ‘good vibes only’ and ‘no complaining zone’ can all go f*#k the hell off! This is real life and in real life I can’t simply ignore the fact that life is a certified bad bitch – not just on Saturdays, like everyday – and she throws hands more often than bodak yellow era Cardi B. 

Don’t get me wrong, I’m no ‘Debbie-downer’, I’m just trying to be realistic and  live a balanced life. We’ve all heard the saying ‘you can’t have too much of a good thing’ well that includes positivity. Yes my dhiye, too much love and light is dare I say it…can be toxic. When we deny the very real feelings and experiences of ourselves and others, we are setting ourselves up to only measure life based on how ‘good’ it is. We don’t learn to inhabit the strength and resilience gained from the inevitable challenges that we experience. Life is complex, and our experiences are always going to be a dance between the good, bad, the ugly and the beautiful. Toxic positivity is when we have to shirk everything that isn’t deemed ‘positive’, and therefore we are living in alignment with one of the human experiences. 

As true and as pure as the intentions of the good vibes only movement are, I think this is still considered a coping mechanism or a trauma response. Bad things happen to good people all the time and we can’t keep brushing that reality under the carpet. Doing this can feel completely invalidating our emotions and our human experience –  at times, it feels like we’re shoving invisible happy pills down each other’s throats.

Keagan Henman, Unsplash

Sometimes, in order to heal and to cope, it’s necessary to sit with your issues and your experiences, process your trauma’s and give yourself time to process whatever it is you’re going through. Never taking heed of the negative, results in us undervaluing the importance of these seasons in our lives. It minimises the experience, the voice of hurt gets silenced and invalidated again and again, and before you know it you have your shadow self beefing or contemplating  pulling a Jordan Peele’s ‘Us’  for all the years of torment you’ve caused. 

Truth is, there’s no good way to repress your life, only so many ways to gaslight yourself into thinking it’s greater than it really is and truth be told there’s only so much a good front – or as I like to call it ‘it could be worse’ face – can gain you. If you’re willing to get uncomfortable – really uncomfortable – there’s something better beyond the hurt and darkness. Something worth fighting for. 

According to a study by the National Library of Medicine, it’s more beneficial to accept negative emotions rather than judge, dismiss or avoid them. To paraphrase, their stance suggests that, “individuals who accept rather than judge their mental experiences may attain better psychological health, in part because acceptance helps them experience less negative emotion in response to stressors.”

Nik, Unsplash

Loneliness, for example, is a reminder of the importance of relationships, possibly a way to help us find better and healthier ways to explore them when faced with it. 

Something that I think we could all consider taking into account during these times, is practising mindfulness – of where we are, how we’re feeling and what we’re going through. Being able to not only identify but face your feelings is a bloody superpower, a marvellous one! Think of yourself as the Hulk. You are incredible despite all the bad and good that comes and goes throughout your life. Being present is literally a gift from you to yourself and learning to be present in the thick of our emotions is a seriously important skill. What’s the point of only looking on the bright side, besides, didn’t doctors tell us that’s bad for our eyesight? 

Take a different perspective, make your problems do a little twirl for you so you can see this shit clearly. And validate your emotions dammit. There’s no need to lie to yourself. EXPRESS YOURSELF HONEEEY! And not just the good parts either! I wanna see that summertime sadness, winter time madness, listen, EVERYTHING! 

You’re not only great when you’re good. You’re great just being you and that’s what you deserve. To be you, fully!

Written by: Thandiwe Magwaza

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za