Twyg’s African Textile Talks held its third iteration at The V&A Watershed over the week of 28 July 2025. Reflecting on the event, Jackie May, the founder of Twyg, had this to share on the purpose and impact of African Textile Talks, “We had quite a strong theme on care… being more careful in how we think about textiles, fibers, and fashion. Fashion and textiles are deeply cultural… It’s not just the end product, it’s a whole system you’re buying — a whole ecosystem.”
Mohair is one such textile which is enduring in quality based on an entire ecosystem. As the world’s leading producer of this luxurious natural fiber, South Africa—together with Lesotho—accounts for nearly 75% of global mohair production. But beyond numbers lies a narrative rich with dedication, craftsmanship, and a deep connection to the land and animals that make it all possible.
The success of today’s mohair industry is rooted in the hard work and vision of previous generations. These pioneers didn’t just develop the industry in South Africa— as Jonker Venter says “They went to Australia, they went to Texas in America, they went to New Zealand and they have established their industry there. And we must say thank you.”
This legacy continues through the unique bond between South Africa and Lesotho, whose farmers contribute significantly to the global supply. Lesotho’s mohair, known for its exceptional length and luster, is often used in high-end products like tweed and velour, and is cultivated under a system that has remained remarkably stable even as global production has declined.
So, what makes mohair so unique? Mohair is renowned for its luster, strength, and smoothness—qualities that enhance other fibers when blended. “They’ve tried to replicate mohair artificially, but they couldn’t achieve it,” explains Jonker. Its natural sheen and wrinkle resistance make it a favorite for fashion houses and sustainable textile brands worldwide.
Pierre van der Vyver shared a simple but powerful example: “I’ve got a mohair jacket on. It was in a suitcase all the way from PE to here. I just took it out and put it on—there’s not a wrinkle in it.” When viewed under a microscope, mohair resembles artificial fiber in its fineness and uniformity—yet it remains 100% natural, biodegradable, and renewable.
As Jackie so aptly puts it, the ecosystem and context in which a product lives is vital, “A drought is going to affect the fiber. A shock is going to affect the fiber. The soil is going to affect the fiber. It’s so interesting to keep bringing everything right back to the origin and the land.” The same sentiment could be shared for South Africa’s natural fibre counterpart, wool.
Modern mohair farming in South Africa blends tradition with technology; from laparoscopic insemination to genetic tracking via barcode ear tags, farmers are investing heavily in improving herd quality and fiber performance. “You can scan an animal and instantly access its fleece weight, fineness, and lineage—from birth to today,” notes Pierre.
Farmers now shampoo and condition goats before shearing, and dip them strategically to ensure optimal fiber quality. These changes have markedly improved fleece consistency and ease of processing. Yet, beneath the tech is honest dedication. During kidding season, when cold fronts sweep through farms, it’s not uncommon to find newborn goat kids being warmed in farmhouse kitchens. “That’s the type of dedication a mohair farmer has to his goats,” shared Pierre.
From blockchain to life-cycle assessments, this push toward transparency is helping brands form deeper partnerships with the mohair supply chain, especially through organisations like Mohair South Africa. But as Lauren Moore emphasises, data alone isn’t enough. “We need to deepen our stories of provenance, to support science with the soul of what makes South African mohair so special.” At every stage of the value chain—from farm to spinning mill—there’s an unmatched level of skill, knowledge, and pride. It’s a craftsmanship that leaves an impression on everyone who visits the industry.
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