Building The Magical World of Sister Party with Yaone Refentse and Love Olerato

There are few things as comparably powerful as sisterhood. It’s a kind of transcendence over any regular friendship or connection – and in a society that tends to pit women against each other, sisterhood is an antidotal requirement for building the kind of effervescent world that we deserve to live in. Enter Sister Party – a magically curated world, conceptualised and created by two real life sisters, Yaone Refentse and Love Olerato, whose bond together fuses the joy of girly things – from fashion and style, to make-up and set design – with education, in the form of a Youtube channel of growing impact and representation. As seen on Channel O’s SuperCulture, Sister Party is a literal to its name; wherever Yaone and Love go, magic happens – in all shades of style, quirkiness and always with a dose of humour. As their Youtube ‘about’ reads, “from sewing DIYs & editorial makeup to vlogs & interviews, come with us as we work our way towards being a part of Rihanna’s creative team (Inshallah)”. As digital platforms increasingly shape global discourse, there’s a crucial demand for South African voices to take up the mantle of expression – this is entirely Sister Party’s manifesto, except in an incredibly cute and cool way. J’adore. 

On the origin of Sister Party, Yaone explains that the channel is a pandemic-baby, “I studied fashion and my sister studied psychology and social development at UCT. The pandemic hit and Love was finishing her final year, and I was working in PR at a corporate company. I felt I wasn’t being creative enough,” and Love shared that, “I’d started doing make-up during the pandemic and Yaone had more time to sew clothes, and we started to think about ways that we could use these creative muscles to grow.”

Sister Party photographed by Thapelo Kekana

Sister Party photographed by Taff Meda

Sister Party photographed by Henry Hansen

Both Yaone and Love wanted the show to chart their entry in the creative industry – and for Sister Party to serve as a portal for any aspiring creatives, too, with Yaone saying that “we brainstormed for a while and we came up with the idea of doing a show – where I could do make-up and Love could do make-up, and we needed a place where all of our creativity could live. Love wanted to do set design, too and we just had this need to explore as much as we could. Youtube made the most sense as a place where the show could live. Our first episode went up on the 2nd April, 2021. We just kept going from there – the ideas snowballed, and we started adding our friends to show.” Yaone had graduated from fashion school, but her understanding of the vastness of the industry and what jobs it could offer, were not taught. I have often written about the fact that fashion education is generally only equipped for careers in design or buying; Yaone muses, “even if you’re an accountant, you can get a job in fashion! There’s space so many kinds of skills and talents”

As Love shares, Sister Party’s inclusive vision is their core philosophy, “I think when a lot of our parents think ‘creative industry’, they think ‘big-bad Joburg or New York’ and that you’re never going to get paid properly or find success. We thought, here are – girlies that want to do this – and surely we can’t be the only ones, let’s create our own community? The basis of the show is about amplifying the voices of queer, POC and Black femme women in the industry. We wanted to see girlies like us being brought together,”  and Yaone, notes that,“our channel is everything that we are passionate about in one place. We just made it our own world, where we can amplify everything that is close to us. Create the content you want to see in the world! We just didn’t see quirky, Black, maximalist girls.” Love adds that “we want to be silly and educational.”

Sister Party is testament to just doing the damn thing – that brave space in between an idea and actually creating, with Love sharing that they started with an iPhone XR and dream – “we didn’t even have a ring light at the beginning! We focused a lot of our early content creation deals into investments for equipment like a soft-box and props. We still shoot mostly with an iPhone 13 and we edit everything on it.” The Sister Party world is often set in Love and Yaone’s apartment, with every corner of their space having been a set or scene on the channel, in one way or another. Yaone explains that, “from the beginning, we knew we would want to create multiple ideas. So having three different series, short-films – it’s all part of a dream to eventually have a television network. We’ve been very focused on not being afraid to start something just because it might not be perfect. It doesn’t have to be HBO or Netflix ready, you just have to have something that can show people who you are.”

Specialising in content creation, Sister Party collaborating with brands and hosting three web series: the main show which is released in seasons, their runway or award commentary and recently, the launch of ‘She vs. Me’ in partnership with The Fix, with Yaone sharing that the secret is actually being precisely themselves, “we’re doing what we can with what we have. In the South African context, we’ve seen that a lot of the work that we’ve done has helped us get into a lot of spaces. I think we’re creating a niche that has a lot of impact and we see that with our community. We started working with Channel O as part of a show that airs on Saturdays – 9am, channel 320 on DSTV – and it’s called ‘Super Culture’. We are one of the ‘super heroes’ and basically just asked to ‘Sister Party’ there.” and Love noting that “the show didn’t want us to be anything but ourselves.”

Yaone and Love have always shared a synchronised taste from Cartoon Network to fashion and pop culture, “although, it’s always through our own individuality, it’s always been aligned,” Yaone reflects. Love adds, “We always have one brain. She’s the left side, I’m the right side, and we just balance each other out and learn how to communicate with each other. Our relationship has grown so much and I feel so fulfilled doing this job, and there’s no one else I’d want to do it with. It’s a family business!”

Sister Party photographed by Henry Hansen

Sister Party photographed by Zwelihle Bukhwele

Their shared references and complementary personalities shape Sister Party’s aesthetic; a world that is dripping in colour, beauty and at the cutting edge of trend and relevance – it’s the kind of girl world that early manifestations of MySpace and Youtube could only ever dream of offering. Looking ahead, Sister Party’s aspirations include launching merchandise that reflects their streetwear aesthetic, an idea that was seeded from their collaboration with Levi’s Haus to create Sister Party branded T-shirts. It’s also critical – as Yaone’s and Love’s personal style is incredibly on point, at all times. Love emphasises their confidence in their niche, “we see our niche, and we have the whole lane and we are twirling in it.” 

Yet, their ultimate dream transcends commercial success; Sister Party, whether on Youtube or as a TV network of its own, is about giving back and building a supportive community, “the dream for us is to give back. We want to do more workshops and to incorporate women-centred initiatives, and learn together with our community as we go. We know the impact of opening up the queer, Black and POC community and we need more voices like ours, doing what they want to do and not feeling limited.” As sisters, their bond elevates their partnership to a level of authenticity and dynamism that is infectious – Sister Party is truly one of the most exciting spaces in South Africa media. 

Subscribe to Sister Party HERE

Catch Sister Party every Saturday at 9am on Channel O, via DSTV

Written by: Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Cape Town’s iconic ‘Death of Glitter’ party is back

After several years of iconic club nights, The Death Of Glitter (D.O.G) is evolving their dancefloor into something bigger and juicier than before. Since 2017, the Cape Town collective has been creating queer utopias that push the boundaries of South African nightlife. Called everything from “infamously fabulous,” by Texx In The City to “a disgrace,” by The Cape Town Catholic Society, D.O.G has become a fundamental part of Cape Town’s LGBTQIA+ culture and community. Each event seeks to imagine the potentiality of queer utopia through creative collaboration. It’s a meeting place for local creatives and an oasis for the city’s weirdos. 

D.O.G returns from its year-long hiatus on May 31st at The Factory, Paarden Eiland, taking the leap from club night to large-scale music happening. Founder and creative director Tazmé Pillay said, “This marks our first step toward the ultimate goal of D.O.G as a syndicate of urban-based queer arts happenings.” To bring D.O.G into its next phase, the collective is excited to welcome avant-pop artist Desire Marea, who will perform a special live set at the event alongside DJ and producer, sunsunsun. Philippus Johan, music director, said, “Desire felt like the right choice for this event. They embody D.O.G’s pillars, not only through their artistry, but spiritually. They’ve gone out of their way to make this work – we couldn’t be more appreciative.” Also on the lineup is Cape Town’s rising underground superstar Tactix, and D.O.G residents Phijos and DRAGMOTHER.

Photograph of Desire Marea courtesy of Desire Marea

D.O.G photographed by Mich Mellow

PHIJOS and DRAGMOTHER photographed by Zander Opperman

While conceptualising this rebirth, Pillay honed in on the collective’s core principals: PARTY / ART / SEX. The cathedral-like space of The Factory will be transmuted into a temple for the club kids, an industrial playground as brutal as it is beautiful. This altar is built around ‘The Megalith.’ Visible from every vantage point of The Factory’s cathedral-like space, the six meter monolithic structure features video mapped visuals, and an LED lighting rig that plays with concealing and revealing the DJ – turning the energy of the dance floor away from a fixed point on the outside, and back toward the inside.

D.O.G’s impact goes beyond the dance floor, fostering meaningful social connections and sparking national conversations on acceptance and inclusion. They acknowledge that some in the community need more affordable tickets to access D.O.G. they have made 50 Community Tickets available for those who cannot afford the price of a full ticket. Those who wish to purchase a discounted Community Ticket must sign up and answer a few short questions. Though all are welcome at D.O.G, we champion the visibility of historically marginalised identities. POC, queer, trans, non-binary and femme bodies call D.O.G home, and will be given preference.

D.O.G are committed to contributing to skills development and entrepreneurship within the creative sector. Through their events and collaborations, they provide emerging artists and creatives with opportunities for professional growth, networking, and business development. Those who want to participate can sign up for their volunteer programme. You can help them build this epic production, play with some lights, look after FASHION at coat check, or help keep the guests safe and happy. No prior experience needed. Volunteers will receive entry to D.O.G, as well as meals for their days of work. Positions considered on a rolling basis.

Cape Town based photographer Zander Opperman was tapped to photograph a campaign for the relaunch. Featuring twelve beloved club kids, the campaign honours the diversity, queerness, and fearlessness of D.O.G’s people, celebrating bold individuality and liberated creative expression. Featured family includes Anna, Bee, Brooklyn, Eli, Ina Propriette, Jes, Lwazi, Max, Max Hodge, Nate, Rae, Rahul, and residents DRAGMOTHER and Phijos.

D.O.G is proud to be an officially selected international collective for WHOLE United Queer Festival. DRAGMOTHER & Phijos will be representing D.O.G, and performing at the festival in Ferropolis, Germany on August 4th.

Purchase tickets & get more info here.

Press release courtesy of Death of Glitter

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Thandiswa Mazwai releases her fourth album ‘Sankofa’

Since the beginning of her career in 1996, the legendary artist Thandiswa Mazwai has been one of the most influential singers in post-apartheid South Africa. Known for her electrifying performances, she has toured the world and will celebrate her new offering with shows in Johannesburg, Durban and Cape Town. Now, she’s released her fourth album, “Sankofa”.

Sankofa is a Ghanaian Twi word that means ‘to go back and fetch what has been left behind’. The making of this work, her first album of original songs since 2009’s Ibokwe, has embodied this idea. Recorded in Johannesburg, Dakar, and New York, the album combines archival Xhosa samples, jazz and west African music. It includes songs produced by Meshell Ndegeocello, Chris Bruce, Nduduzo Makhathini, Tendai Shoko and Thandiswa. It features collaborations with Thandi Ntuli and Nduduzo Makhathini.

Thandiswa says, “The making of Sankofa was a sonic odyssey that took me from the ancient villages of the Eastern Cape to Dakar and New York, weaving a thread that culminated in something truly special. Within those ancient rhythms and polyrhythms, a common lexicon revealed itself to me and I am excited to share this music with those who have been growing and evolving with me. Listen out for uhadi, umrhubhe, ngoni, kora and drums in the music. It is about a celebration of the pan-African spirit, healing old wounds, and returning to what honours us.”

About the recording of Sankofa, her fourth release since 2016’s Belede, 2009’s Ibokwe and her solo debut 20 years ago Zabalaza, Thandiswa says “In 2010, I went to visit the International Library of African Music at Rhodes University where I got access to an archive of field and research of Xhosa music; I had these recordings for a very long time. During the COVID lockdown, I went back to these recordings and realised I could use them as a bedrock for creating new songs, and these field recordings became the building blocks of the album. After I did all the pre-production on songs with my friend Tendai Shoko, we would put down to bass, notes, and guitar chords to create demos, which we then took to my producers Nduduzo Makhathini and Meshell Ndegeocello.”

Mazwai continues, “What I noticed was they were really responding to the archives, and this became the looming spirit that carried us through the album: all of us experimenting, discovering, investigating, questioning, collecting our lineages, rooting ourselves and responding to the archival experience and infusing it with something from the now. In West Africa, they responded to the archive by marrying expressions from umrhubhe with the kora; bringing their colour into it, making this an album that speaks not only to the pan-African spirit but also to the diaspora.”

The themes in the album are: “Healing, reclamation and political dissatisfaction. It is also an album that re-enforces my pan-African identity.”

Listen to “Sankofa” here

Thandiswa will also bring Sankofa to the Durban Playhouse on May 31. Purchase your ticket here.

Thandiswa will perform at Artscape in Cape Town on July 20. Purchase your ticket here.

 

ABOUT THANDISWA

Thandiswa has been one of the most influential post-partheid singers in South Africa. She began her career in 1996 with music groups Jack Knife and Bongo Maffin, one of the pioneering bands of the dance music genre Kwaito. After 6 award-winning albums with Bongo Maffin, she ventured on to a solo career. Her first solo project Zabalaza (2004), reached double platinum status and won numerous awards, including a Kora award for Best African Female and four South African Music Awards. Her critically acclaimed sophomoric release Ibokwe (2009) and third album, a jazz reinterpretation of South African classics, Belede (2016) reached gold status within a few weeks of release. Her compositions include traditional Xhosa music, mbaqanga, funk, jazz, and reggae.

Known for her electrifying performances, Thandiswa has performed all over the world at venues including the NPR Tiny Desk Concert, Apollo Theatre, The Lincoln Centre, The Cannes Film Festival, Africa Express, BBC World Music Awards, TED, Afropunk, Carnegie Hall Citywide Festival, among others. She has collaborated with artists such as Hugh Masekela, Meshell Ndegeocello (including on her 2024 Grammy Winning album), Fatoumata Diawara, Somi, and DJ Black Coffee.

Cape Town based musician Fu Dog releases his latest EP ‘Heksie Rhythm’

Cape Town based musician Reinie Swart aka Fu Dog is blending jazz, house, acid, electronica and techno, bringing us his latest EP “Heksie Rhythm”.

The EP is an ode to the unordinary, bouncing between dreamy distortions, vibey electronica and ambient dance music. First on the EP, AllFearNoLies is a deep dive into the sonic subconscious of its creator, and an emotional, drum-less entry to an EP later boasting more upbeat compositions. Next in line, Heksie Rhythm is a glimpse into a live jam session with friends, sampled into a bass-heavy, colourful electronic anthem. Third on the list, Fuck [2] Perfection features a floating, moody arpeggiation, carried by organic drums and a very playful arrangement. Last up, What You Think is the only dance track on the EP, ending things off with a spacious, driving, subdued thumper.”

Listen to ‘Heksie Rhythm” here

Press release courtesy of City Bowl Wax

Moonchild Sanelly releases new single “Scrambled Eggs”

South African musician and artist Moonchild Sanelly is back with a brand new track Scrambled Eggs”. The song is a joyous return for this singular performer and creative visionary whose signature, self-described future-ghetto-funk sound first catapulted her onto the global scene, and has since seen her collaborate with everyone from Beyoncé to Ghetts, Gorillaz to Major Lazer and Wesley Joseph to Wizkid, as well as release two acclaimed solo albums “Rabulapha!” (2015) and “Phases” (2022). Produced by Johan Hugo (Self Esteem, Miguel, M.I.A) “Scrambled Eggs” is the first single to be taken from Moonchild’s forthcoming new studio album, which will be announced later this year. 

“When I started staying in the GOOD hotels, I noticed how the world is obsessed with avo and eggs for breakfast. It became a thing… you get avo & eggs for breakfast at the good places …”  Moonchild added “My writing recently has been me at my most humble, and Scrambled Eggs is me reminding everyone – by the way, I AM that bitch! I’m a multi-passport artist travelling the world in custom designs and doing it all on my terms. And I’m really f**king proud of that.” 

The video for “Scrambled Eggs” was directed by Jabu Nadia Newman and shot last month in Johannesburg, South Africa, It is an action-packed, chaotic and carefree caper – and a celebration of female-led business empires – styled by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed and featuring costumes by South African designers Siyababa and Sihle Masango and inspired by Johannesburg’s cutting-edge style and playfulness.

Moonchild said – “The Scrambled Eggs video marks my arrival at the beginning. It’s the beginning of being in THAT space;- this new world that this crazy, amazing, powerful, beautiful gang of absolute muthafuckers built together. This world contains everything I’ve ever worked for…  These are my people, and this is our superhero moment.” 

Moonchild Sanelly will be on tour this summer, UK festival dates include Glastonbury, WOMAD, Green Man and Jazz Café Festival.

Listen to “Scrambled Eggs” HERE.

 

About Moonchild Sanelly:

South African musician Moonchild Sanelly has always, since the very beginning, determinedly done things her own way. An artistic visionary, her drive to succeed is fuelled by an innate creativity, unique self-expression and extraordinary confidence, all underpinned by personal pain, trauma and a deep conviction and commitment to standing up for what she believes in.

Growing up in Port Elizabeth, Moonchild’s (born Sanelisiwe Twisha) music-filled childhood was one of creative exploration: whether it was self-choreographing dance routines to Spice Girls tracks, teaching herself to play the piano, singing at church with her family or writing poetry, artistic expression was always encouraged.

A move to Durban in 2005 to study fashion saw Sanelly become immersed in the local music scene, and later in Johannesburg, she would write for reggae bands and freestyle against other rappers, often overcoming misogynistic attitudes in the process. “In my writing, I would pay homage to my hard times and the many years that I struggled, because it has shaped me,” she says. She soon established her own signature sound: self-described as ‘future-ghetto-funk’, which would catapult Moonchild Sanelly to fame as South Africa’s most unique performer. With her electrifying live show – and self-designed flamboyant outfits – she became a superstar on her home turf. With an eye on audiences outside of South Africa, a commercialised approach to unapologetically spreading her message – one of female sexual empowerment – “liberation for women, in the bedroom, in the boardroom, knowing your power… I needed to be heard by a lot of people” – soon found a global audience which saw her invited to perform at festivals such as SXSW, Primavera, Glastonbury and Boardmasters.

A rarity as an uncompromising alternative artist who has found success in a commercial space, Moonchild Sanelly is a true fighter and unparalleled force of nature. “I fought everything for me to exist as myself and to win as myself,” she says, putting her ambition down to her mum’s passing when she was a teenager. “I was constantly reminded about my magic and my power… that nothing is impossible.”

Press release courtesy of I Be Music

Feiertag returns to Sonar Kollektiv with new single ‘Colorball’

Dutch producer Feiertag returns to Sonar Kollektiv with new single ‘Colorball’, a dancefloor weapon that’s been tried and tested at his gigs, now released for us all.

Joris Feiertag has something of a restless musical soul, and as such he’s always searching for new sounds and colours. Hailing from Utrecht in the Netherlands, he makes music that is a finely balanced blend of organic and synthesised elements, often using ingenious syncopated rhythms combined with instruments such as the harp and kalimba.

Following on from his recent third album, entitled ‘Roots’, which saw the boundary pushing producer fuse his love of a strong, uplifting vocal hook with obscure samples and darker, sonorous sounds, his new single ‘Colorball’ is something altogether more intricate. Murky synths and pads make way for indecipherable yet irresistible vocals that build together to a very satisfying climax.

Joris explains, “After releasing my third album, I had to re-think my musical direction. It wasn’t easy to follow up on that pretty intense process. I used my intuition and ‘Colorball’ is the result. I felt like I wanted to focus more on my live set and having ‘secret weapons’ that work on stage. My goal was to have a kind of simple sounding hypnotic groove where you can discover subtle elements along the way. I’ve tested it multiple times on stage now and I have to say that I’m happy with the response I got so far! I’m glad to share this one with you.”

Once again, Joris creates new challenges for himself by finding that special place where his music can flourish, this time focussing on how his music will translate in a club setting.

Listen to ‘Colorball’ here

Press release courtesy of Only Good Stuff

Martin Magner releases the first single “Weapon” on his latest Pop Music EP “Magnum Opus”

Martin Magner has released the first single (and accompanying music video) “Weapon” on his latest pop music EP “Magnum Opus”. Martin shares that “Weapon” is a stripped back ode to self. “It’s about knowing your worth and being unafraid to ask for what you want. Embracing your innermost desires and shedding the fear of expressing them out loud.”

The EP as a whole is an unapologetic, four-part sonic and visual exploration that expands his universe with the sole aim to make people feel something. Magner shares, “It’s aggressively self confident, disarming with the hint of plastic pop that makes me scream.” 

He shot a music video which captures him crash landing in New York City, which corresponds with the single release today.

“I’ve spent years experimenting with different sounds, all of which have reflected the different phases I’ve gone through navigating my ever changing and evolving identity. I feel like I’ve finally found the music that captures who I am. ‘MAGNUM OPUS’ is an aggressive turn away from my previous work, much like the sounds we’re hearing emerge from Charli XCX, Julia Fox, Snow Strippers, 100 Gecs, I’ve evolved into a sound that perfectly captures the sparkle and sadness I carry in my day to day. While I’m based in NYC, I’ve worked with my long standing producer MISSU in Cape Town as well as Moon Bounce and Tony Quattro in LA to craft a sound unique enough to get people to pay attention. On the EP, I’ve got my first feature with LA based rapper Push Push, most well known for her work with Tommy Lee and Pussy Riot. Our track ‘Nightmare’ is set to release as the third single from the EP. I’ve explored an Afrikaans dance music track called ‘KLAP’ (directly translated to HIT) as well as featured my AI friend Nicole on my second single ‘Crawl’. It’s taken me 30 years to get here, but I finally feel like I’m creating from a place of authenticity.” 

Martin aims to pursue live performance in NYC and to get people “crawling across the dance floor.”

Listen to “Weapon” HERE

Watch the video HERE

‘AN INTENTIONAL UNDERSTANDING’ – WOOLWORTHS PRESENTS #STYLEBYSA WITH YASMIN FURMIE

Woolworths’ campaign #STYLEBYSA’s latest seasonal drop continues as the series spotlights stylish aesthetes within South Africa’s creative scene. A decade ago, ‘Style By SA’ revolutionised local collaborations by tapping into the diverse talents across the nation. Have you ever wanted to know how your favourite style icons would interpret Woolies Fashion? This campaign series has you covered, as it invites creatives month to month to self-style their own edits through Woolworths’ most up-to-date collection releases.

Fashion is one thing, but the way we interpret it through our own personal lens makes all the difference. This month, #STYLEBYSA welcomes a master of this understanding: content creator and proud mom Yasmin Furmie, along with her daughter Afrah. Together, they share their personal take on this month’s fashion drop from the comfort of their home in Joburg, photographed on film by the artist and close family friend, Francesco Mbele AKA Franadilla. Guided by thoughtfulness and intentionality, Yasmin is your favourite’s favourite style icon, who lives by the code ‘disturbing the norm’. Captured in her quintessentially signature style – of layering and an emphasis on quality-made pieces – Yasmin shares that, “I love the #STYLEBYSA concept so much. Being able to think about the styling myself and shooting without being dictated to, is really refreshing. I love the coats in particular and of course, I love the layering.” Embodied by Yasmin and Afrah, Woolworth’s latest womenswear drop is a focus on classic silhouettes and timeless accessories. From the perfect coat to tailoring essentials, and cosy knit-sets; this winter is about bringing it back to the basics, in the most effortless way possible.

Yasmin’s story is the material that dreams are made of when guided by passion and authenticity; after a long career as a social worker, Yasmin started sharing her ‘outfit of the day’ on social media, almost instantly catapulting her to fashion icon status. On the thoughtfulness that informs her stylistic choices, Yasmin notes that “my stories and narratives are unchanging. I love the fact that I do advocate for people of a certain age, because we never get the visibility that we deserve, and of course – that women can do whatever they like!”

When a chance encounter with Bubblegum Club Magazine’s founder Jamal Nxedlana led to the development of her brand, SiSi, with her best friend Cynthia Allie; Yasmin’s love for fashion and perennial attitude for person style, resulting in a brand that serves as a love letter to the concept of the ‘perfect shirt’. SiSi uses a focused method to explore the multitude of ways shirt-tailoring can be adapted across silhouettes, shapes and styles. Known for her impeccable eye for design, Yasmin is a strong advocate for locality in design and creative expression; the more homegrown, the better. It’s been said that if a designer spots Yasmin wearing one of their pieces, it’s a sign for them of good things to come!

Since breaking out onto social media – Yasmin has become synonymous with the art of dressing. Consider this month a masterclass in achieving comfort and cosiness through quality pieces; as Yasmin’s sartorial expression is always balanced in that perfect place between function and form. 

SHOP YASMIN’S #STYLEBYSA EDIT HERE

Written by: Holly Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

A Sartorial Genesis with Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

I think we tend to forget just how fresh of a phenomenon it is to dedicate one’s career to the creative pursuit. The world has always produced artists and artisans, and creativity encompasses almost all our ability to problem-solve and innovate, no matter the discipline. In this instance – I mean a creative pursuit that extracts us from the caving in of the four walls of a cubicle; pushing the abstract dreams of someone else, mired in a grey, dullness. Chloe Andrea Welgemoed was always far too kaleidoscopic for that kind of prospect. 

When reality seems to present a flat surface of  2-dimensional, replicated ideas: Chloe is a stylist and art director, whose maximalist spirited work stands in direct resistance to any and all oblique tediousness. Today, Chloe is one of South Africa’s (and I argue, the planet’s) most important visual story-tellers. Among her portfolio, she is perhaps known as the co-creative partner to Thebe Magugu’s sensational world-building, though Chloe is also responsible for the visual expression of many designers and brands in our South Africa’s contemporary era. A guardian of the sacred gates of our country’s sartorial and narrative evolution; Chloe is that stylist whose vision clarifies the case for fashion as art.  

It was a chance meeting with Crystal Birch (in her styling incarnation) thirteen years ago, which first introduced Chloe as a viable career path. The rest is, well, history – as Chloe explains, “I studied at Vega in Cape Town. I didn’t really want to do it – I always wanted to do fashion – but there was no BA degree around at the time, and it just wasn’t a choice. I started with animation, and I majored in graphic design and branding communications. I met Crystal Birch and I just thought ‘who is this magical woman?’. Crystal invited me on set the following day, to tag along on a shoot that she was doing with Kristin-Lee Moolman. It was an immediate yes! I knew of stylists in South Africa, but I didn’t know how accessible it was or how to get into it. I just knew I wanted to be creative. When Crystal told me that she dresses people for a living, that was it for me. I fell in love immediately.” That fateful day led to Chloe approaching Boss Models, insisting that she would do all their test shoots for free. These tests laid the foundation for her recognition – elevating  the humble test shot, Chloe began to demonstrate that she should get booked for a job, “It happened quite quickly after that, actually. I think the first photographers to notice my work were Jacques Weyers and Justin Polkey, who saw these test shoots coming in from nowhere, and that’s how I got my first advertorial with Absolut Vodka.”

As Chloe explains, she’s tested out most of the roles that fashion has to offer – with a short stint at Spring Leap, the T-shirt printing manufacturing – “doing production liaison, sourcing the cotton, printing t-shirts, doing shoots with all my friends.”, Chloe had already started her own label, as many who grew up in the zeitgeist of fashion in the 90s and 2000s were led to believe; to make it, you had to be a designer. The apex of Chloe’s design path was a discussion with a big manufacturer for Mr Price, who read her the riot act about how hard it was to be a young designer in South Africa – and that she, most likely, wouldn’t be able to rise above the extreme difficulties of cultivating a brand (things have changed, slightly, with a re-shifted focus to local design among consumers). This spirit-crushing moment elicited a deep confrontation with her current path: switching Chloe to focus full-time on developing as a stylist. On trying many ways to exert one’s vision, I ask Chloe what these various threads began to reveal to her, to which she says, “It’s exactly that – pulling at threads. I guess you keep pulling and then some threads are shorter than others, and some you keep pulling at because it reveals more colour or bits and bobs along the thread. I think it’s a natural thing in search of growth, if you want to grow as a creative person, you have to keep stretching out your arms and figuring things out, and embracing new challenges.”

In discussing Chloe’s genesis story, she mentions that, “it’s an interesting time for me to get into this. I’m in a very transitional period at the moment. Like the artist John Baldessari, who cremated thirteen years of his own work and burned it to ash, and put it into a book that he kept on his bookshelf. I’m kind of in that space.” This transitory space is beckoning a new kind of animating spirit to come forth in her work. You can’t teach the kind of killer instinct that Chloe has honed over time, or the ability to tell a visual story with as much dynamism and intent as she is known for, but for Chloe – the secret appears to be that in order to a dance at the razor-edge of mastery, requires constant reinvention. If Chloe burned her work to ash today, it’s only because something even more expansive required space to germinate. 

With her intellectual, artistic and emotional commitment to sartorial consciousness, Chloe shares that she needs to remain reminded that, “an important thing for me is being a stylist – becoming a stylist – and staying a stylist. As a creative person, especially in today’s world, a lot of people see themselves as multi-disciplinary and I think that is important; everything is changing so quickly, how do we keep up? Exploring our creativity is never going to be a one-dimensional thing. Everyone I’ve ever looked up to has never done just one thing, they just tend to be well known for one thing. I love fashion, I love clothes, I was a designer and I was in manufacturing – and I fell in love with styling and chose to develop and master that,” and that, “I was so eager to explore what was next. I briefly did photography and had my own production company – and I found strengths in those mediums but knew I could hire people that suited these roles better… In the last four years, I wanted to get into production design and build sets, and only by actually trying those things, by trial and error, can I honestly assess what I really want to do.” 

Chloe Andrea Welgemoed photographed by Keith Virgo for Mithatha Studios

Frankfurter Allgemeine Quarterly, Photographed by Aart Verrips, Styling and Direction by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

As for Chloe’s process, I ask whether there is something to pinpoint in arriving at a consolidated visual signature in which viewers can know it is her work before seeing her credit or name attached to it; “you don’t know what you can do until you put yourself to the test. You’ll have references and ideas that keep showing themselves in your work. For me it’s a little bit of tartan – a little stripe – my maximalist approach but done in a regal, pared back way. That stuff happens because in the beginning I did way too much. It was only from stepping back and recognising that this doesn’t look great – what can I reframe or take away? As your references develop and as you develop, and you begin to see your own self emerge in your work, that narrative becomes clearer.” 

“My process comes from conditioning, from growing up here in South Africa – growing up in Durban, living in Joburg and Cape Town. From seeing the world from my perspective. You can only really build from what you know and you have to remain true to your own mission and narrative as an artist. What is the thread that keeps coming through that tells people who you are? With Thebe I’ve been very lucky because we’ve been building this world together from almost the beginning. It was amazing because he’s continued to grow so much, and I’ve grown alongside him.” Chloe stylistic vision centres garments as part of a deeper narrative. I think of Thebe Magugu’s breadth of socio-political, cultural story-telling, and Chloe being key to realising the visual expression of this. Each aspect of the set- from objects, to motifs, to location, are part of a greater effort that led to Chloe to include the ‘art director’ moniker to her professional title; “I like earlier that you said ‘imager-maker’ because I feel like this is an important thing to speak about. What you do in image-making is exactly that; you have to build a world. It’s a point of view, constructed into a story. I started taking on production design and art direction and including it with styling, because that way everything could be super cohesive. You can kind of see it when people aren’t communicating from different parts of the team.” 

In mining for greater depth in her work, and to truly guide the vision unfolding for a brief or a project, Chloe notes that fusing together styling and art direction together has birthed the perfect medium, “I still love fashion, but how do I express myself? Stylists are often very discredited and they’re often put below other creatives, so you could have conceptualised and built an entire image, and then just not be credited for anything other than styling. I really want people like me to get acknowledged for what they’re doing. So, I started to look at art direction, and in that I have started to work with a lot of amazing brands like Adidas and H&M, and this is actually such a natural progression for me.”

Hustling is a South African instinct – there’s a reason ‘maak ‘n plan’ is a country-wide mantra. Building out a relatively new, emerging fashion space is comparably different here across most metrics, as we lack the kind of resources and infrastructure generally available abroad. Despite this, Chloe remains decidedly convinced that there is no time like now to be a South African creative, “I think as South Africans we downplay ourselves. We’re looking at the rest of the world and constantly comparing their ease of access – or the opportunities, whatever it may be. What’s been really interesting for me is understanding what my place is here. I’m not Afrikaans, I don’t really have a heritage that I can hold onto – it’s why I dragged my dad to Scotland to try and trace my ancestry, and I’m still looking for that. I think we have to acknowledge that we all come from different places here. I might not have indigenous heritage here, but I grew up in Durban, and I’ve immersed myself in South Africa in all aspects of my life. Everything around us is so beautiful. I think it’s a very exciting time to be a South African creative. I’ve been the heart of seeing creatives rise up out of nowhere and if we can stay communicating and connecting, despite our lack of resources and everything else, we’re going to keep doing big things.” 

On moments that were surreal enough to caution Chloe that what she was doing was precisely right, Chloe reflects that, “Thebe and I always laugh about this – that when we worked with Nadine Ijewere in Paris that we reached our peak, that we could never go above that! I think Nadine was such a breath of fresh air, and she’s a woman who knows exactly what she wants. It was amazing to be in a room with a group of people who cared as much as Thebe and I do on a day to day basis. She took us for dinner and told us that we mustn’t ever stop caring, because that’s what will get us to the end.” The full-circle of it, though, came from an accolade shared by an artistic hero of Chloe, “when I looked at the images of our work with Nadine, I was standing next to Maripol – this 75 year old woman on her birthday, who had literally defined Madonna and Grace Jones’ looks, and she was looking up at me and said ‘I love your work’. That was a big, big moment for me. Her photographic work of Grace Jones got me to pick up a camera.” 

Frankfurter Allgemeine Quarterly, Photographed by Aart Verrips, Styling and Direction by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

Orlando Pirates x adidas ZA x Thebe Magugu, Photographed by Paul Samuels, Art Direction by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

“Also, the film we made with Kristin-Lee Moolman, ‘Banyoloyi a Bosigo’ – that was months of work, and it all arrived together with this really chaotic energy. I had just been hijacked and so much was going on, and it all boiled down to a talisman I had bought at the Rosebank market that turned out to be an energetic trapping talisman! It was bad juju. We really pushed through it and I just remember being on a mattress, in the middle of the, Thebe and I just looking at each other in complete awe of what we had just created..” This added intensity to the creation of Banyoloyi a Bosigo occurred during a process which had already had a delicate veil. The film debuted at Paris Fashion Week in 2021 and is one of Thebe Magugu’s most triumphant bodies of work. The collection itself had been made through the summoning of ancestral spirits, through a traditional healer that Thebe had invited to his studio in preparation for the design process. Coupled with ancestral intervention, the film was a portrait of the spiritual dimension through the lens of realism – both centering the feminine and elevating the role of models (beyond as clothing hangers for designers) to become embodied characters in a designated dimension, as rivalled gangs on a pursuit, as they were dosed with love and transcendence. My beloved epitaph ‘sartorial consciousness’ doesn’t even cut it to describe just how critical this kind of storytelling is: imagine using fashion to realise the dreams of generations that lived, created, and died before you

As Chloe says, “I was chatting to Mandla (Sibeko, founder of FNB Art Joburg) who was saying to me that there’s a new place for image-makers in the art world. We haven’t seen beautiful editorials credited as artworks, or generating income, and where is there a return on that other than building your portfolio? I think there’s a new space emerging that excites me, where image-making is understood as art, too.” In this liminal space, where the pull of a new rebirth is imminent, I ask Chloe what might be next? To which she says, “Art in Africa is blowing up. I want to explore something that’s on my own. Whether it’s painting, or photography. I’ve started a small photography page called Chlo’s World and I’m loving it – it’s all point and shoot. I guess that’s what Maripol did, she photographed  Jean-Michel Basquiat, Andy Warhol, and Debbie Harry with her Polaroid camera, documenting important parts of her career and the community she was surrounded by. 

There is a lot on the go, with Chloe recently returning to Cape Town to live full-time after being in Joburg for seven years. Seven years, the numerological cycle of beginnings of endings, feels incredibly apt for this moment. There is the upcoming launch of Chloe’s own creative studio, ‘Spaanspeck’, which “hasn’t officially launched because I’m really taking my time with it, to get it to the place that I want to be. Someone called me a spark once and that’s always resonated with me. I’m good at bringing people together and bringing out the best people. Spaanspeck will be about building projects by people who know what they’re doing – in both experience and knowledge. I am also in the process of launching Wild Scenes Studios which is a Creative Apparel Workshop with my partner Kristy Welman, we wanted to build a space for ourselves and for others to find & create things that don’t exist. No idea is impossible at Wild Scenes and again it harnesses community, which I love.” 

As a new wave emerges, Chloe will be riding front and centre – having already built a legacy that has inspired a generation of creative to take up the mantle. On sharing words of wisdom, Chloe expresses the potentiality of South Africa’s cultural purpose – with perfect pitch, no less; “you have to be brave and you have to believe in what you’re doing. I guess on building worlds – I never would have thought that in Fashion in Motion in London, for Discard Theory, that we would have a giant China bag built as a place for women to walk out of. It’s been a crazy ride.”

Wanda Lephoto SS22 “Home Affairs”, Photographed by Aart Verrips, Styling and Set Design by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

Thebe Magugu x adidas, Photographed by Kristin-Lee Moolman, Set Design and Styling by Chloe Andrea Welgemoed

Written by: Holly Bell Beaton

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za

Thebe Magugu announces flagship space ‘Magugu House’ – a first of its kind archival, fashion space

Forever at the forefront of historical and cultural innovation in South Africa’s fashion landscape, Thebe Magugu has announced the opening of ‘Magugu House’ in Dunkeld, Johannesburg. Venturing beyond the flagship retail store concept, Magugu House will instead serve as a physical archive of the house’s pioneering collections, and Thebe’s intricate research and design process. The site will host events, panel discussions, serve as a showroom, with two intimate art galleries and eventually – a niche cafe will join Magugu House in the garden. 

“I have always loved the idea of pouring all my collections, installations, events & projects into one space, and Magugu House becomes exactly that – an institution solidifying our universe. I started Thebe Magugu as an afro-encyclopaedic look at key histories and heritage from the continent; with collections named after university subjects as a closer study. In that regard, Magugu House becomes the first campus” noted Thebe in the IG announcement.

Magugu House photographed by Blake Woodhams

Announced by WWD, the store location was scouted to be in proximity to Joburg’s wealthiest, though the multiplicity of the space is intended to serve everyone, with Thebe noting that “I love the idea that yes, the space is for my clientele, but say students, or someone who can’t necessarily afford to get the main collection, can catch a panel discussion by their favourite artist here at the studios.” Additionally, the article makes mention of some speculation that has surrounded Thebe – namely, that there is a view to take on a creative director role at a fashion house overseas. Though there have been offers, none have allowed him to continue with his own label.  

With the recent release of Magugu’s collection Heritage III : Lobola Negotiations, the label continues to ascend to even greater heights as a luxury fashion house that expresses the depth of South Africa’s cultural contexts. In everything he does, Thebe Magugu remains a revolutionary and visionary – demonstrating the possibilities for a full bloom of Africa’s fashion future.

For more news, visit the Connect Everything Collective homepage www.ceconline.co.za